pcsgrp

I am going nuts. Installed another hid kit with canbus ballasts and new bulbs and they don't always work. I am wondering if the connection that goes into the female H7 connector is not making good contact or if this is a general problem with the conversions on the 14's. I picked up a male H7 connector and will install that tomorrow and zip tie the together so they don't move around and see if that solves the problem. I really hate to go back to the OEM bulbs. Anyone else have similar issues?

PureNick

I'd dump the HID kit, return to the stock setup, and replace the bulbs with LEDs. I was at the dealership picking up some accessories the other day and they had two on the showroom floor they replaced with LED bulbs and they look really good. I would say they're almost as bright if not brighter than the intelligent lighting option with a much crisper color.

If you've seen the new Toyota Corolla, it looks very similar to that.

These are the bulbs they used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-CREE-XR-E-LED-H7-Projector-Fog-Light-DRL-HeadLight-White-14W-No-Error-Resistor-/310979706810?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4867d5bfba&vxp=mtr
DO NOT go for the cheaper cluster LED's. The CREE style LED with front projector lens is the absolute best quality + light output. Also, the ones in my link are CANBUS'd so they won't throw a light in the dash.

pcsgrp

How much light does it put out on the road? When I was having my HID's installed, they used those resisters to try and solve the problem but they got so hot they were a fire hazard. I think the problem may be that the connections into the back of the bulb connector are not that firm and if they move a little that is enough to shut them off and pull a error code. I am installing some good connectors today and will see what happens. If it doesn't work back to the OEM lighting. I also noticed that the push connectors into and out of the ballast are tight but can move a little possibly causing the same problem. Once I fix the connection issues I will zip tie everything tight to minimize any possible movement

PureNick

Light output as I mentioned before was nearly identical to the intelligent lighting system but with a crisper "white". These bulbs are strictly plug and play with the OEM system. You simply remove the halogen bulb and replace it with said bulbs from above. That's it. No resistors, wire cutting, etc.

The CREE LED bulbs will run warm but about equal to that of your halogen bulb. Not much hotter.

As an FYI, I run a very similar bulb in my tail lights and they look great. Crisper/cleaner light bleed than stock and plenty bright. No error light either.

ny2nj

purenick...any pics of your tail lights?

PureNick

I can take a photo of my tail lights but you won't notice a difference. Our ML's have fixed diffused lens right in front of the bulb that helps with dispersing light throughout the tail light housing. The biggest notice is the "instant on" look the LED's provide when braking.

Other than that, when the brake is applied, the LED's look just like the stock bulbs. Possibly a BIT brighter.

I can take a video if you guys really want to see it...

jtorrebl

No way these work well. There are LEDs all over the place. The focal point of the single filament halogen bulb requires the reflector to direct light in the proper way onto the ground. With a bunch of focal points in these led bulbs, light will be going in a bunch of different directions a reflect everywhere. There will not be a clean cutoff light beam pattern onto the ground.
We had a 2012 ml which I installed hids into with no problem and even those with a single light source didn't have the cleanest light out.
It's just light reflection physics.
Also note eBay listing says for fog light and drl light use. These lights don't need optic reflectors to focus light in a nice on the floor beam pattern.
I have seen one led bulb that did seem promising with a single led output, but this was not it.
This one makes sense but still not 100% sure:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111374219035

PureNick

Traditional diode LED's have the characteristic of what you're explaining... which is why I told him to use the CREE hi-flux LED's as they do not fract light in random directions.

I use CREE LED luminaries in my profession which consists of all sorts of different lighting scenarios and conditions. I've been personally using CREE based LED bulbs as OEM replacements on a number of my vehicles over the last 4 or so years (ever since they became affordable) and can honestly say the performance and lighting over a traditional diode LED is not even comparable.

I understand your skepticism with generic diode LEDs in an automotive application though... just understand these are not the same in terms of light output, angle, density, and pretty much any other attribute (other than it being digital light) than a standard LED.

For the sake of argument, I took a couple of pictures of what I have since I'm sure others will be interested. Can you see a difference?:



And what the bulb looks like inside the housing. I turned the exposure WAY down so you can actually see the bulb inside. You can see the reflection of the housing and the even dispersion of light from the CREE bulb. Also notice the light diffuser lens in the front of the bulb.




Here are what "Pure White" CREE LED H7 bulbs look like in another vehicle. I believe this is from a late model Ford Fusion (projector lens housing with halogen bulbs).

jtorrebl

Looks pretty good, but not like the factory precise optics for light cut off. This looks like my after market hid blurry cut off line

jtorrebl

The bulb you cited had too many LEDs to reflect light all over the place. This is good in a rear reflector and drl, but not in a headlight.
A different cree bulb will give that light output just not the one you cited. Have you studied physics and concave lense reflections?