2012 HID install - Try Again, can't mount the bulbs

everything works great, no error, no flickr.. dry run works perfectly.
however, the mounting is where i'm having problem.
the stock H7 is mounted on a black plastic with metal ring around it, it's the only way to hold the bulb in place (unlike springs).
I can get the metal ring off the black plastic to the HID bulb but without the black piece I can get it to secure in the housing.
I'm stuck, put the stock H7 back in and waiting to see if anyone has any answer to this.
for those of you had upgraded, how are you mounting and secure your bulb? Pictures would be appreciated.
I think this is the last snag, everything else works so far.
Please assist,
thanks

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=141013193149
The link you provided said its for Mazada, not sure if it will work or not and I'm not seeing one for mercedes.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=141013193149
The link you provided said its for Mazada, not sure if it will work or not and I'm not seeing one for mercedes.
What's the difference between these two? I see that they have your kit on amazon as well:
The adapters say Mazda/Honda etc, but the one Kensun sent me are 100% identical to the Mazda ones for some reason. I ordered 2 sets of these (one pair for high beam and one pair for low beam):

why do you think 35W is too weak? i'm told 35W is better since it draws less power and produces about the same amount of light.
I just ordered the adapter, hopefully this will work.
Can you make a video or takea picture of your lights and their output on the road? Thanks.
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Last edited by opasha; Aug 15, 2014 at 09:36 AM.
Are the ZXE's really that much brighter? How white do they look?
I need a good backup plan in case the HIDs don't work. Is your 35W canbus OPT7 way brighter? I'm trying to get a good idea on the light output between all of these.
Here's a review from someone that tried both Sylvania ZXE and Philips Diamond Vision 5000K: http://www.amazon.com/review/R1TQ7I9..._res_rtr_alt_1
Here's a question/answer discussion between both brands: http://www.amazon.com/these-lights-a...sin=B007JZKBVW
Last edited by opasha; Aug 15, 2014 at 09:44 AM.

The 35W Opt7 definitely brighter and whiter... at least during my test
My original plan was use Opt7 as low beam, ZXE as high beam... I guess I might try the demand vision to see how that compares, maybe i'll use it as low beam or high beam until I figure out this bulb holder issue.
Is your Philip Diamond Vision better vision than stock? distance?
The 35W Opt7 definitely brighter and whiter... at least during my test
My original plan was use Opt7 as low beam, ZXE as high beam... I guess I might try the demand vision to see how that compares, maybe i'll use it as low beam or high beam until I figure out this bulb holder issue.
Is your Philip Diamond Vision better vision than stock? distance?
The light output in general for these halogens sucks. The distance isn't good at all for the low beam...it wasn't good either for stock. I feel like it provides good/normal light when the high beam is on. I really need to compare it to something. However, since I ordered the HID kits again, I'm going to test those first since they are the best option that will give actual Xenon like output. If that doesn't work out, then I will buy a different set of H7s to test.
I'm currently using these for the parking bulbs and they are absolutely gorgeous Xenon color and really look amazing with the Philips and the LED DRLS: . They produce no errors. If you get an error in the left bulb, it will go away on it's own completely within 5 minutes after the car has been shut down after being driven and started up the next time.

I personally did not mount the bulbs. Turns out, my buddy knows a little more about the hid lights than the repair shops because he's done tons of installs on all sorts of vehicles. He didn't even need to take off the bumper to do the low beams, which every shop said was needed. He just took off the wheels and did it through the wheel well. He said he took the metal prong/whatever that is that holds the factory bulb out, slid in the bulb and then placed that prong or whatever back in. I'll ask him in detail the next time I see him (soon) because I need to get this flicker issue taken care off. I will say this. The lights are nice and bright like true Xenon. The only issue is there's a slight rainbow effect towards the bottom I notice and a bit to the left I saw a shadow spot. Is this normal? Is the bulb defective or dirty? If anyone knows, please chime in. Thanks.
Any help from anyone is appreciated. Thanks.

which I am using now. Buy Hylux ballast you can get it online it is more expensive than most of the aftermarket unit around $100 set. You don't need resistors and you can put the ballast and wire inside the housing and close the dust cap without cutting. This ballast can adjust the power itself provides consistant voltage and won't have error code. I have using it for almost year so far so good.
which I am using now. Buy Hylux ballast you can get it online it is more expensive than most of the aftermarket unit around $100 set. You don't need resistors and you can put the ballast and wire inside the housing and close the dust cap without cutting. This ballast can adjust the power itself provides consistant voltage and won't have error code. I have using it for almost year so far so good.
Also, for the bulbs being held in place. The METAL PRONG (it's kind of squarish and skinny like these http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Audi-BMW-Me...s-p/aa1047.htm - the original ones that are installed in the ML350 look like these. They just need to be popped out and run through the H7 bulb wire from behind and placed directly behind the actual bulb - this will allow to hold the bulb in place - then just pop it back in to the bulb housing. No other adapters are needed.
The 35W AC Canbus kit did not work for me (we tried this one before we installed the resistor harnesses) because one side flickered, so I'm sending that back. The 55W kit has a great light output - I'm very happy.




