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Unfortunately nothing for those codes. That is the part number for the "small battery" , and that Q006 I have seen with Q005, but I do not think is related to date.
Maybe this top number, 22/12/02 = 2022 December 2nd?
It depends on the manufacturer. Likely 2022 for the year, but the next 4 digits could be a month or a week. Never seen the day listed. If it were 223202, I would guess 2022, week 32. At this point I think the year is what matters.
No coding or battery registration required. No battery maintainer required. Same goes for the main 12V starting battery under the front passenger seat.
I believe the website I linked shows larger capacity batteries with similar size somewhere on their web page.
This one is $13 CAD ($10 US) so they are really cheap compared to the MB ones! I have installed 3 now in different cars (going back about 7 years) and they work perfectly with no failures yet!
This thread is nearly 8 years old! Perfect for my 10 year old W166!! First I have a question: what exactly does the auxiliary battery power? As for the replacement battery it seems you can pay $60 (or more) for an A001 982 27 08, or $27 for an ETX14, or even $7 for a UB1213/D5730, but THIS ONE for $15 shipped shows up as compatible in most of those searches. That's the one I'm going with.
This thread is nearly 8 years old! Perfect for my 10 year old W166!! First I have a question: what exactly does the auxiliary battery power? As for the replacement battery it seems you can pay $60 (or more) for an A001 982 27 08, or $27 for an ETX14, or even $7 for a UB1213/D5730, but THIS ONE for $15 shipped shows up as compatible in most of those searches. That's the one I'm going with.
Are you sure that is the auxiliary battery on your W166? Depending on the years it can be the "mini/alarm" type of battery, or the "midsize/motorcycle" type of battery (AUX14)
This thread is nearly 8 years old! Perfect for my 10 year old W166!! First I have a question: what exactly does the auxiliary battery power? As for the replacement battery it seems you can pay $60 (or more) for an A001 982 27 08, or $27 for an ETX14, or even $7 for a UB1213/D5730, but THIS ONE for $15 shipped shows up as compatible in most of those searches. That's the one I'm going with.
Good luck with that - I hope it works better for you than it did for me. I replaced mine with something sourced off Amazon and ended up with the red letter "drive directly to dealer, do not change gears" message. Message multiple times - one prolonged incident in a hotel parking lot where I thought it was tow-time. When I got home I realized that the "compartment" for that toy battery is actually just a bracket in the corner of a much larger battery box that would house a real motorcycle or grain auger battery so I swapped out the micro batt for a real battery. Not a hint of trouble since.
Here two different W166 vehicles, both batteries are possible
Exactly. It looks like there was a real battery used at one point and then some genius engineer decided to downsize to that ridiculous thing that would be barely adequate to power a small RC truck. Chuck the toy battery in the bush. Put a real battery in the battery box that is already there. The real battery will cost less than a MB toy battery and your troubles will go away. The only challenge with the swap is that you won't have a factory hold down that works on the real battery. I used a couple of zip ties but you might come up with something more elegant.
No. Your transmission uses a little electronic servo on the outside of the transmission housing to shift P-R-D. The forum wisdom believes this module is powered directly by the auxiliary battery. I don't think that is true but a failing auxiliary battery clearly does impact those shifts.
So I initiated the return of the SLA battery and the seller refunded my money without requiring me to send the battery back. Now I'm considering using it instead of buying the $180 "vented" battery. I'm mostly motivated by laziness, given that I was able to access the battery location in about ten minutes, but it looked to me that the actual removal/replacement of the battery might add an hour or more. Could I possibly wire the "mini" battery in without removing the existing battery?
So I initiated the return of the SLA battery and the seller refunded my money without requiring me to send the battery back. Now I'm considering using it instead of buying the $180 "vented" battery. I'm mostly motivated by laziness, given that I was able to access the battery location in about ten minutes, but it looked to me that the actual removal/replacement of the battery might add an hour or more. Could I possibly wire the "mini" battery in without removing the existing battery?
the answer to your question is right there in my post; 12v=12v so why not make my life easier??
the answer to your question is right there in my post; 12v=12v so why not make my life easier??
The answer may be "right there" but, if so, I don't see it either. Your car, your shop, your way. But there's no substitute for doing it right once. Its amazing how when there isn't enough time (or energy) to do it right the first time, we'll still find the time and energy to do it over later. I'm 67 years old and i still haven't fully accepted that wisdom so I completely understand why you may not as well.
The right fix is pull the defective battery and replace it with a good new one.
the answer to your question is right there in my post; 12v=12v so why not make my life easier??
If you think that two batteries have the same functionality because 12V = 12V, you have not evaluated the two batteries closely.
The little battery is rated at 1.2Ah, and the medium-sized battery is rated at 12Ah. That is a factor of 10. Additionally, I have not explored the CCA of each battery type either.
Also, the MB vehicles are very sensitive to voltage levels and available power (juice). A low voltage battery can trigger all kind of errors. Some technicians start chasing the error messages instead of checking the batteries, charge/replace them and money is thrown away for no reason.
The cherry on the cake is transmission control modules corrupted because of a low voltage during the computer module's booting/shutdown process. It happens to laptop/desktop as well with corrupted BIOS. Some technician replace TCM, plus coding plus $$$. The MB "hackers out there" reflash the TCM, and problem solved with minimal cost but only a few know how to do it (defintely not me). Summary: keep your batteries charged and healthy
