Looking to do a simple upgrade to my non-HK system.
Plan is to tap into the speaker wire for one of the door speakers (thinking passenger rear), with a speaker to RCA line level input, and run it to a slim all in one amp+sub enclosure that will fit under the rear bench. Since there's a fuse box to tap into there, and the battery is under the front passenger seat (or utilize the aux battery in the trunk), I really just need to tap into the existing speaker wire. I can easily remove the door panel, but before I do that, does anyone know how the wiring track runs from Command into the rear doors? Might be easier to tap into it if it runs along the floor versus pulling off the panel.
I am in the same situation, verbatim. Did you—or, does anyone else—hold the key to this mystery?
I figured it out and got what I needed done for the HK retrofit + a sub in the trunk. What are you trying to do and I can try and help if we were in the same boat.
I figured it out and got what I needed done for the HK retrofit + a sub in the trunk. What are you trying to do and I can try and help if we were in the same boat.
Great! I’m tapping the rear speaker wires to supply the speaker level inputs on my sub amp. I, too, am trying to decide which way to dive in (B pillar trim or floor).
Also, any advise on speaker wire colors and polarities would be welcomed.
Great! I’m tapping the rear speaker wires to supply the speaker level inputs on my sub amp. I, too, am trying to decide which way to dive in (B pillar trim or floor).
Also, any advise on speaker wire colors and polarities would be welcomed.
You should tap into the driver rear speaker wire. That way, when you run the line to the LOC, you can put the amp on that side, otherwise you'll be blocking the fuse panel under the passenger rear seat. See attached picture for polarity and wire color.
And go through the b-pillar, get a good set of pry tools to pop up the plastic trim pieces. Be patient, it's a LOT of plastic that can break. And also attached is the wiring loom you'll be looking for inside the b-pillar with the speaker wire you need to tap in to.
You should tap into the driver rear speaker wire. That way, when you run the line to the LOC, you can put the amp on that side, otherwise you'll be blocking the fuse panel under the passenger rear seat. See attached picture for polarity and wire color.
And go through the b-pillar, get a good set of pry tools to pop up the plastic trim pieces. Be patient, it's a LOT of plastic that can break. And also attached is the wiring loom you'll be looking for inside the b-pillar with the speaker wire you need to tap in to.
Wow, you did me a real solid there! That’s everything I could have possibly asked for.
With regard to the lower b-pillar trim, is that removable without disturbing the upper section that’s behind the seat belt wrangler?
Wow, you did me a real solid there! That’s everything I could have possibly asked for.
With regard to the lower b-pillar trim, is that removable without disturbing the upper section that’s behind the seat belt wrangler?
Yep, you lift the trim piece along the bottom of rear driver side, then then gently pull back the lower trim piece for the b-pillar. No need to mess with the top/belt
I noticed that a large gauge cable connects the rear fusebox directly to the battery. It seems this positive terminal would supply a great deal of current and would allow the battery to remain undisturbed.
I cannot think of any practical reason that this terminal would behave differently from a direct connection to the battery; however, I’m open to challenging this assumption. Is this something you’ve explored?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuffen
Thank you.
I'm heading down the same path, however being Downunder my sub will be under the driver's seat and on top of the battery.
I had a new battery installed 3 months ago so don't expect to need to get in there again anytime soon.
Where did you pick up power for the sub as it would need to be switched otherwise it would idle 24/7.
Again thanks.
As mentioned, your amp’s power supply will be from the battery. However, most amps have a remote trigger that can be connected to a switched fuse source to turn it on/off automatically. (The power requirements are substantially different.)
I noticed that a large gauge cable connects the rear fusebox directly to the battery. It seems this positive terminal would supply a great deal of current and would allow the battery to remain undisturbed.
I cannot think of any practical reason that this terminal would behave differently from a direct connection to the battery; however, I’m open to challenging this assumption. Is this something you’ve explored?
As mentioned, your amp’s power supply will be from the battery. However, most amps have a remote trigger that can be connected to a switched fuse source to turn it on/off automatically. (The power requirements are substantially different.)
Nope. Too many electronics in these trucks that any dip in voltage can trigger idiot lights and faults (whether or not they are accurate or not). Most car subs run off of the main battery for this very reason.
As far as the remote trigger for the amp, I tapped into the fuse for the cigarette lighter which only runs when ignition is on or COMMAND is turned on if the truck is off.
Nope. Too many electronics in these trucks that any dip in voltage can trigger idiot lights and faults (whether or not they are accurate or not). Most car subs run off of the main battery for this very reason.
Glad I asked!
One other thing I thought to do in future-proofing: cut the OEM speaker wire and patch in a length of speaker wire that, when looped, will reach the amp. This will allow me to tap the jumper for a signal AND later on I can cut the wire, feed the head unit side to an LOC/speaker level input and the other length, which is connected to the speakers, can connect to an amp.
I’ve attached some crude drawings to convey this idea. I would probably assign speaker levels inputs (from all four channels) to the multichannel amp to preserve the fader, rather than leaving them on the sub amp as drawn. Also, my amps have preouts that should allow them to chain in addition to speaker level inputs.
Jumper tapped for speaker level inputs to sub amp; head unit continuing to power speakers. Jumper cut: speaker level signal from head unit in, amp power to speaker out.
Nope. Too many electronics in these trucks that any dip in voltage can trigger idiot lights and faults (whether or not they are accurate or not). Most car subs run off of the main battery for this very reason.[ /QUOTE]
Glad I asked!
One other thing I thought to do in future-proofing: cut the OEM speaker wire and patch in a length of speaker wire that, when looped, will reach the amp. This will always me to tap the jumper for a signal AND later on I can cut the wire, feed the head unit side to an LOC/speaker level input and the other length, which is connected to the speakers, can connect to an amp.
I’ve attached some crude drawings to convey this idea. I would probably assign speaker levels inputs (from all four channels) to the multichannel amp to preserve the fader, rather than leaving them on the sub amp as drawn. Also, my amps have preouts that should allow them to chain in addition to speaker level inputs.
Jumper tapped for speaker level inputs to sub amp; head unit continuing to power speakers. Jumper cut: speaker level signal from head unit in, amp power to speaker out.
I'm confused -- aren't you already cutting into the existing speaker wire for the LOC? And by tap, I assume you're using a t-tap
I'm confused -- aren't you already cutting into the existing speaker wire for the LOC? And by tap, I assume you're using a t-tap
Originally, I had planned to T-tap the speaker wires without cutting them. That would have sent a signal to the speaker level inputs while leaving the OE speaker wires intact, receiving their power from the head unit.
By extending the wire using a patch, I can emulate this approach, tapping the patch instead. However, should I ever elect to amplify those speakers, I won’t have to pull out any trim; the patch only need be cut, supplying the speaker level input with the head unit side, and the speakers will already be wired for an amp!
Originally, I had planned to T-tap the speaker wires without cutting them. That would have sent a signal to the speaker level inputs while leaving the OE speaker wires intact, receiving their power from the head unit.
By extending the wire using a patch, I can emulate this approach, tapping the patch instead. However, should I ever elect to amplify those speakers, I won’t have to pull out any trim; the patch only need be cut, supplying the speaker level input with the head unit side, and the speakers will already be wired for an amp!
Does that clarify at all?
I guess I don't understand. You're still going to have to tap into the speaker wire at some point, and you're not getting to it without pulling up some trim pieces.
I guess I don't understand. You're still going to have to tap into the speaker wire at some point, and you're not getting to it without pulling up some trim pieces.
You're right: I will still have to access the speaker wires. But, this way, I only have to do it once, not twice (if I want to add an amp for the speakers later)...
Also, much to my surprise, with the seat moves back and the carpet pulled aside, the positive terminal of the battery is easily accessible from the front right footwell.
You're right: I will still have to access the speaker wires. But, this way, I only have to do it once, not twice (if I want to add an amp for the speakers later)...
Also, much to my surprise, with the seat moves back and the carpet pulled aside, the positive terminal of the battery is easily accessible from the front right footwell.
You're forgetting if you tap into only the left rear speaker for future proofing, you will only have a left channel to tap in to. Would have to tap into the right side too if you want to future proof for stereo, but then you're also forgetting, a new amp for the door speakers tapped in via the driver rear door signal, you're still having to run an insane amount of wire to get to all of the other speakers if you want more power to them.
Not sure if you're thinking this through given the amount of double work you're proposing for what is essentially a nightmare. Stick to adding a sub and if you want to go a step further, replace the ****ty stock speakers with the HK counterparts.
You're forgetting if you tap into only the left rear speaker for future proofing, you will only have a left channel to tap in to. Would have to tap into the right side too if you want to future proof for stereo, but then you're also forgetting, a new amp for the door speakers tapped in via the driver rear door signal, you're still having to run an insane amount of wire to get to all of the other speakers if you want more power to them.
I intend to tap both left and right channels. I actually alluded to that along with the schematics. I think there may be a gain issue if I only supply one; however, it would be simpler just to leave well enough alone. But, I rarely do, hence the contingency plan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by we47b1me
Not sure if you're thinking this through given the amount of double work you're proposing for what is essentially a nightmare. Stick to adding a sub and if you want to go a step further, replace the ****ty stock speakers with the HK counterparts.
Cutting the lines and soldering in a few connections isn’t that big of a deal for me, especially when it’s part of a regret-prevention strategy. I went aftermarket with my speaker selection, but they happen to also be Harman products.
Thanks again for your invaluable contribution and response time!
I intend to tap both left and right channels. I actually alluded to that along with the schematics. I think there may be a gain issue if I only supply one; however, it would be simpler just to leave well enough alone. But, I rarely do, hence the contingency plan.
Cutting the lines and soldering in a few connections isn’t that big of a deal for me, especially when it’s part of a regret-prevention strategy. I went aftermarket with my speaker selection, but they happen to also be Harman products.
Thanks again for your invaluable contribution and response time!
Michael
You're missing the point and how the wiring looms of this truck work.
You're missing the point and how the wiring looms of this truck work.
I must admit that you are likely correct. (I do like that you call this a truck; is this a local nomenclature?) I’m not at all opposed to you setting me straight—I appreciate the knowledge as well as your time.
I must admit that you are likely correct. (I do like that you call this a truck; is this a local nomenclature?) I’m not at all opposed to you setting me straight—I appreciate the knowledge as well as your time.
Since the W163 was introduced 20+ years ago, the official classification of the ML has been "Mercedes Light Truck" .
