M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

some oil in 2 spots, normal or problem?

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Old Mar 25, 2019 | 11:26 PM
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Question some oil in 2 spots, normal or problem?

hey all,

been doing quite a bit of work and tinkering on the car lately, trying to fix/patch up any problem areas. Found 2 spots with some oil/oil gunk and wondering if it is at all normal due to regular heat and oil vapor from under the hood, or if i have some parts to look at and replace to seal things off. Some of the work that has been done recently on the car: oil change + oil filter, new engine air filters, new cabin and dust filters. This past weekend i put in a new fuel filter and also replaced some o rings and gaskets for parts that needed to be removed to put in the fuel filter. I put in the engine air filters about 500 km's ago, and when i did that i also cleaned up a bunch of old oil gunk on the engine, turbo, and connector tube from a past turbo oil leak, so this past weekend when i saw some oil i knew it was fairly new.

1st spot, right around the oil fill hole and cap (1st pic red arrow). That rubber boot around the oil fill cap, on the right side of the boot there was a tiny bit of oil gunk that when wiped with a clean rag came off indicating either some oil splashed up out of the oil fill hole, or some vapor had escaped from the oil fill hole and caused the gunk build up.
Should the oil fill cap have an airtight seal on there and have 0 vapor/seepage? or is a little vapor escaping and causing some gunk on the rubber boot normal?

2nd spot, connector tube and turbo inlet (1st pic blue arrow). i had gunk/oil here before, this car had a turbo oil leak in its history, but i cleaned it all up when installing the engine air filters 500km's ago. No oil was leaking anywhere as all the gaskets were doing their job properly, but when i removed everything there was a very small pool of oil on the turbo inlet, there was also some oil vapor/condensation in the connector tube that i could easily wipe away with a rag, and there was oil on the pcv gasket sides (2nd pic yellow scribbles). I had gaskets and o rings and replaced a bunch of stuff when changing the fuel filter, turbo air tube o rings were replaced, pcv gasket replaced, engine air filter gaskets replaced, and turbo inlet/connector tube gasket replaced also.
Now i know those gaskets will help prevent the oil from leaking, but what im wondering is if there should be any oil in those spots at all?
I've heard of pcv issues and needing to replace/clean them, but is some oil in these spots normal for even a properly functioning pcv, or if the pcv was properly working would there be 0 oil?
I'm just not sure if i should be looking into possibly replacing the pcv, or maybe looking into fashioning an oil catch can if some oil getting past the pcv is normal, thoughts?



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Old Mar 26, 2019 | 09:18 AM
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My dealer replaced my engine oil cap because of some seal issue under warranty a while ago... Yours could be the same issue.
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Old Mar 26, 2019 | 08:57 PM
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that's good to know. It sounds like the cap should have a 100% seal and prevent anything from escaping if the dealer replaced yours. I'll pick up a cap and hopefully that will fix that tiny leak.
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Old Mar 31, 2019 | 11:25 PM
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bump

no comments/info on the pcv?

looks like it is held on by 2 bolts and the mercedes part # is 642 010 17 91, costs about $200 CAD at the dealer to purchase

very hard to access as it is a tight spot right by the firewall, hopefully a wrench or socket can get in there to remove it without needing to take anything else out/off

it may be worthwhile for me to see if i can take it out and just inspect it and see if it is gunked up, maybe some brake cleaner could clean it up and prevent having to purchase a new one

very interested on feedback though regarding the oil, should there be any at all on that hose gasket and by the turbo inlet and inlet gasket?
engine air filters are new and oil level is just above half on the dip stick, so excess pressure due to clogged air filter and too much oil shouldn't be the cause
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Old Apr 24, 2019 | 11:22 PM
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just wanted to post an update.

i purchased a new engine oil cap and that fixed the small leak of vapor on the rubber boot. looking at my old cap and the new cap, the part numbers are different for the caps.

for the other part, i tried to get back to the PCV bolts with a wrench or a socket, but it doesn't seem like i can get in there as space is very tight. i also have been unable to find any youtube or online resources indicating how to remove that PCV housing.
on my most recent check there was again some oil in the turbo inlet and some in the turbo gasket, but it was all being contained by the gasket and wasn't leaking anywhere. i'm going to leave it for now and check on it once in a while to make sure nothing is leaking or turning into a problem.
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 09:33 AM
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FYI, DanD just posted a thread on this. The Youtube video shows the tech dismantling part of the firewall. Doesn't look too hard
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...-ml2014bt.html
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 11:45 AM
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There should be no oil anywhere in the engine bay if everything is working and sealing properly.
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Babukb2
bump

no comments/info on the pcv?

looks like it is held on by 2 bolts and the mercedes part # is 642 010 17 91, costs about $200 CAD at the dealer to purchase

very hard to access as it is a tight spot right by the firewall, hopefully a wrench or socket can get in there to remove it without needing to take anything else out/off

it may be worthwhile for me to see if i can take it out and just inspect it and see if it is gunked up, maybe some brake cleaner could clean it up and prevent having to purchase a new one

very interested on feedback though regarding the oil, should there be any at all on that hose gasket and by the turbo inlet and inlet gasket?
engine air filters are new and oil level is just above half on the dip stick, so excess pressure due to clogged air filter and too much oil shouldn't be the cause
Intresting, not sire about your car year but mine is 2014 and when I asked mbdirectparts
They told me the part number is
642-010-37-07 BLEEDER V 500 0 1 X 162.14

https://www.mbdirectparts.com/oem-pa...lve-6420103707

Its on order and Im planning to replace it as soon as it gets here, the reason is because there are some oil residuals around oil cap and dipstick.
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DanD.
Intresting, not sire about your car year but mine is 2014 and when I asked mbdirectparts
They told me the part number is
642-010-37-07 BLEEDER V 500 0 1 X 162.14

https://www.mbdirectparts.com/oem-pa...lve-6420103707

Its on order and Im planning to replace it as soon as it gets here, the reason is because there are some oil residuals around oil cap and dipstick.
This is funny:
Here is what they think part number should be

mbdirectparts - 642-010-37-07
Two local dealers - 642-010-17-91

So I took a little mirror and start looking, original part on the car is 642-010-24-91

some oil in 2 spots, normal or problem?-photo804.jpg

So Im leaning towards 642-010-17-91
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Old Sep 27, 2019 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by peter2772000
FYI, DanD just posted a thread on this. The Youtube video shows the tech dismantling part of the firewall. Doesn't look too hard
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...-ml2014bt.html
ive seen that video, unfortunately, the car is different. my valve doesn't look like that, and it is also not that easy to get to. its been a while since I've been on the forums, I've just left things as they are since I haven't been having problems.


Dan, any updates? did you end up getting the part and replacing it?
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Old Sep 29, 2019 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Babukb2
ive seen that video, unfortunately, the car is different. my valve doesn't look like that, and it is also not that easy to get to. its been a while since I've been on the forums, I've just left things as they are since I haven't been having problems.


Dan, any updates? did you end up getting the part and replacing it?
Yes, the engine is not the same as we have, its just an idea.

Yes, i have bleeder replaced, yes its real PITA. Especially I was dumb enough and let bleeder bold dropped twice, so I had to jack the car and remove cover to find bolt under heat shield.

Anyway, you need to take some parts off, air filter, air intake off the turbo, and all plastic pars on the left side.
Loose this, don't disconnect, when its lose it will give you enough room to move around.
some oil in 2 spots, normal or problem?-photo866.jpg

After it was changed I still have some wet spot on engine cover near dipstick but much less.
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 12:05 AM
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when you say loosen this, what in the picture are you referring to?
what tool did you use? socket or wrench and what size?
and did you come at it directly from the front/over top, or did you get at it from the left side where you removed the air filter?
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Old Oct 1, 2019 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Babukb2
when you say loosen this, what in the picture are you referring to?
what tool did you use? socket or wrench and what size?
and did you come at it directly from the front/over top, or did you get at it from the left side where you removed the air filter?
I was referencing to this, its attached to block with 3 bolts.
some oil in 2 spots, normal or problem?-photo310.jpg

I have used socket and short very small driver, because of space limitation. Sorry don't remember the size. Small mirror will help too.

I got to it from both sides, from passenger side, remove all plastic covers the same way as you do when replacing dust filter.

One side not, when I pull both bolts out, bleeder was still crazy tight to the block, had to use a lot of power to turn it after that was very easy.

Try not to drop bolts when you put them back, PITA to get them, they dot fall all the way to belly , there is a heat sheet and it gies right behind it, very hard to find and retrieve.
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 11:20 PM
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awesome, thank you so much for the info!

im going to keep an eye on mine, if i start to see excessive oil appearing around the turbo or turbo air intake then i may take this on and replace that valve.

for now, this seems like too much of a PITA to just take on proactively
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 03:25 PM
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Sorry for bringing up an old thread. I have a 2014 ML350BT as well, and dealer sold me the same part: 642-010-17-91

It looks like this: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...-010-17-91-MBZ

Note it does not have the red seal wrapped around the sensor like the original one on my car. Parts guy said it just plugs in like that, no red seal necessary. Can that be right? It's ribbed but is made of hard plastic.


Last edited by excal; Nov 23, 2020 at 06:08 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by excal
Sorry for bringing up an old thread. I have a 2014 ML350BT as well, and dealer sold me the same part: 642-010-17-91

It looks like this: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...-010-17-91-MBZ

Note it does not have the red seal wrapped around the sensor like the original one on my car. Parts guy said it just plugs in like that, no red seal necessary. Can that be right? It's ribbed but is made of hard plastic.

Paulus
that part in the link does look a bit different than mine, maybe it is a newer model of the same part, and maybe the newer model doesnt require the gasket. i would see how it fits, if it fits loosely then i think you will need the gasket to create a proper seal, if it fits tight then you probably don't need the gasket as you wouldn't be able to fit it in there.

hopefully DanD can chime up on whether his newer part needed a gasket.
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Babukb2
that part in the link does look a bit different than mine, maybe it is a newer model of the same part, and maybe the newer model doesnt require the gasket. i would see how it fits, if it fits loosely then i think you will need the gasket to create a proper seal, if it fits tight then you probably don't need the gasket as you wouldn't be able to fit it in there.

hopefully DanD can chime up on whether his newer part needed a gasket.
You do need the gasket for sure, it's new part now, and I had to cut the old one, I think I did reply in this forum somewhere how I did it.
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DanD.
You do need the gasket for sure, it's new part now, and I had to cut the old one, I think I did reply in this forum somewhere how I did it.
Yeah, here I think: https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...ml#post7896392

I'm skeptical about using the old style gasket though, given the wraparound style is supposed to be the new & improved design. Did you get the same part 642-010-17-91, and was yours missing the gasket as well?
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by excal
Yeah, here I think: https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...ml#post7896392

I'm skeptical about using the old style gasket though, given the wraparound style is supposed to be the new & improved design. Did you get the same part 642-010-17-91, and was yours missing the gasket as well?
I had gasket. And new part looks like this.
You need to cut the old gasket, if its there.

some oil in 2 spots, normal or problem?-photo353.jpg
some oil in 2 spots, normal or problem?-photo805.jpg
some oil in 2 spots, normal or problem?-photo470.jpg
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Old Nov 24, 2020 | 10:34 AM
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Thank you, dealer confirmed small gasket is required as well.

Noob question - what's the best way to clean up the oily mess that is there now? Brake cleaner and towels? Gunk engine degreaser followed by rinse with water? A bit nervous about water in this area as it is usually protected by the engine cover...
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Old Nov 25, 2020 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by excal
Thank you, dealer confirmed small gasket is required as well.

Noob question - what's the best way to clean up the oily mess that is there now? Brake cleaner and towels? Gunk engine degreaser followed by rinse with water? A bit nervous about water in this area as it is usually protected by the engine cover...
i was similar to you and didnt want to go spraying and soaking everything under the hood due to worries ill wet something that should stay dry, even though i would love a clean and shiny engine bay, i just clean what is really dirty and do it without soaking stuff.

when i was cleaning up the oil in that area i just used Scott shop towels, the oil wasnt gunked on so i could easily wipe it off. For any parts under my hood that did have gunked on oil crud and i couldnt just wipe off, i also used the Scott shop towels, but i sprayed them with a degreaser solution. i used Simple Green PRO HD, i didnt spray it on the area, i just sprayed the shop towel and then went rubbing the area with the wet shop towel. after the gunk was off i would either wipe with a dry shop towel or with a wet with water shop towel and then with a dry one after, depends how clean i wanted the area.
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