M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

Creaky door hinges

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Old Jul 14, 2019 | 08:36 PM
  #1  
Matt Franzdorf's Avatar
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Creaky door hinges

Hello all, I’ve searched but can’t seem to find my answer. Both front doors on my 2015 ML creak and pop when opening and closing the doors. I’ve looked for a way to lubricate the hinges but nothing seems to work. Do I have to replace the hinge assembly or is there a way to lube them that I can’t see. Thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 09:51 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Matt Franzdorf
Hello all, I’ve searched but can’t seem to find my answer. Both front doors on my 2015 ML creak and pop when opening and closing the doors. I’ve looked for a way to lubricate the hinges but nothing seems to work. Do I have to replace the hinge assembly or is there a way to lube them that I can’t see. Thanks in advance.
White lithium grease aerosol spray ought to work.
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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 06:11 PM
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Thanks I’ll give it a shot.
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 09:01 PM
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I have this same problem. No grease will help it... both lower hinges need to be replaced. Super annoying and not cheap.
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 06:39 AM
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Thanks. Yeah, that’s what I’ve been learning.
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 09:51 AM
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Dealer quoted me over $800 to replace one hinge! I may take a shot at doing it myself with a used hinge off eBay.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Franzdorf
Hello all, I’ve searched but can’t seem to find my answer. Both front doors on my 2015 ML creak and pop when opening and closing the doors. I’ve looked for a way to lubricate the hinges but nothing seems to work. Do I have to replace the hinge assembly or is there a way to lube them that I can’t see. Thanks in advance.
Did you ever get this resolved? I’m having the same issue right now.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RobBanton
Did you ever get this resolved? I’m having the same issue right now.
@RobBanton The only video I found on YouTube was for a W163 and it looks like the front quarter panel needs to come off to access the pillar-side hinge bolts. Thus the time and cost at the dealer. If a shot of lithium grease doesn't work, a new hinge seems the next best option.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 10:31 PM
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Last edited by chassis; Sep 23, 2020 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
@RobBanton The only video I found on YouTube was for a W163 and it looks like the front quarter panel needs to come off to access the pillar-side hinge bolts. Thus the time and cost at the dealer. If a shot of lithium grease doesn't work, a new hinge seems the next best option.
Thank you @chassis
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 08:27 AM
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No idea if the M class hinges are similar to my GLC hinges!
My hinges were making a loud creak/pop noise on opening and closing and the issue was easily resolved by adjusting a tensioner screw on the hinge.

https://mbworld.org/forums/subscription.php?do=removesubscription&t=741254

Last edited by decorily; Sep 24, 2020 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by decorily
No idea if the M class hinges are similar to my GLC hinges!
My hinges were making a loud creak/pop noise on opening and closing and the issue was easily resolved by adjusting a tensioner screw on the hinge.

https://mbworld.org/forums/subscript...ption&t=741254
I just checked my W166 GLE door hinges and there is no small adjustment screw. The only screw is the main hinge pin/axis/bolt. The pillar-side bolts have no feature outside of the pillar, so access is only from inside the pillar which explains high dealer cost.
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by chassis
I just checked my W166 GLE door hinges and there is no small adjustment screw. The only screw is the main hinge pin/axis/bolt. The pillar-side bolts have no feature outside of the pillar, so access is only from inside the pillar which explains high dealer cost.
​​​​​
​​​​​​Man, it will be PIA to remove the side panel and door panel just to get access to the hinge bolts. And our hinge are painted as well. I am sure it will cost a arm or leg to get the oem replacement part. The unfortunate part is, i am having the issues.
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Old Aug 18, 2022 | 09:05 PM
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Anyone ever figure out access to the body side nuts of the front lower hinge? Can it be from interior of the car? Remove kick panel? I'd rather have a rattle can painted hinge than the awful popping noises on my driver door.
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Old Aug 28, 2022 | 06:25 PM
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There is no small bolt on my ‘15 GL63 either. This popping noise is driving me nuts and there does not appear to be anything online that solves this problem. Spraying it with white lithium grease does nothing.
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Old Aug 28, 2022 | 08:30 PM
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Interior lower hinge nuts are easily accessible by removing left kick panel trim. I ordered a new lower left hinge and will paint it using spray cans. Interesting fact, there is a Chrysler silver that matches Mercedes Iridium silver and can easily be found at auto parts stores.
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 05:35 AM
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Try a silicon based lubricant spray. At the least you'll know you've got it into every possible spot. It might not last forever but at least you'll know if its a lubrication issue or a structural one.
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Old Aug 29, 2022 | 11:59 AM
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If the hinges are shot no amount of lubrication will help - but yes, a little bit of thinner lubricant that will get in the hinge itself will quickly reveal whether it is just a lubrication issue or whether the hinges need to be replaced.
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Old Sep 13, 2022 | 11:13 AM
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I replaced the lower left front door hinge (driver door) on my ML63 and solved the crunching/popping problem for just $70 part. I would rate this repair a difficulty of 2. Very simple, took maybe 1 hour of time on the actual replacement. Be sure to mark your hinge locations, but even after marking most of that hour was spent on a little re-alignment of the door. Another good portion of that time was spent scraping away the old gasket material where it mates to the body.

Per WIS instructions, 1) open and support the door, I used a floor jack and block of 2x4 wood. 2) mark around hinges for alignment position 3) remove the bolt that mates the 2 halves of the hinge. 4) remove the half from the body (bolts behind the kick panel as previously noted), then 5) remove the half mounted to the door. replace with new hinge in reverse. Note: you will need to move the new hinge to the open position for installation. It's a bit tough off of the car. I used a vise to hold it and yanked.

Fortunately, I had leftover paints from other projects to color match the new hinge. It's not totally necessary to paint the aluminum hinge if you're not concerned with the aesthetics, but easy to do with spray cans: 1) cleaned the new hinge of any preservative oil residue with brake clean, 2) used etching primer, 3) a few coats of color, then a few coats of clear. Allowed to dry a few days before mounting.

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