Bilstien Shock Upgrade B6
As an FYI, I had a blown front strut. Dealer wanted dealer money to replace one strut (SACHS brand). With that price known, I figured I could do all 4 for the price of one if I supplied the labor. I bought the car used (spent most of its life as a condo car in FL) out of Long Island. I suspect the early failure was due to the crater size drain covers on the highway in Long Island (if you have driven in and around NYC you know what I am talking about). Needless to say, after a little research I settled on Bilstien HD B6's on all 4 corners as I did not want to alter the ride height. The car has ~50,000 miles at the time of the swap. Here are my driving impressions thus far after putting about 3,000+ miles on it:
1) Drastically reduces nose dive under heavy breaking (bonus, brakes seem to be working more efficiently).
2) Less body roll in S turns/transitional turns from one side to another.
3) More connected feeling to the road. If you are a driver you know what I am talking about here.
4) Firmer, but not in a bad way, ride.
5) Passes the "wife" test as it is her car (she does not notice that much of a difference and is not complaining about the ride). She still loves her car so that is a plus.
6) The ONLY harshness that is noticeably different is true perpendicular expansion joints. These are met with a firm (but not harsh) thump. On a recent drive south (1400 miles) I hit just three such joints where I noticed a difference between the Sachs and Bilstien. The Sachs would have absorbed the joint more softly.
Bottom line...these are the shocks that MB should have put on the vehicle to begin with. Yes, the car is not as "floaty" or cloud-like but the driving experience is vastly improved. There is a noticeable difference in build quality favoring the Bilstien. I purchased the gear from FCP Euro (great customer service). My MB dealer did the alignment afterwards and they were asking about my first impressions. I think if the dealer could install these as an aftermarket HD option/upgrade they would (MB USA / Bilstien are you listening?). The service tech was keen to hear the "float" was taken out of the car as many people have complained about this on the standard models since new.
The only tool I needed to add to the garage was a 1/2 impact to get the front axles off. You will need an assortment of torque wrenches and a big breaker bar (to get the +degrees needed for proper torque on the new axle nuts). Also, don't forget the suspension components are torqued at a vehicle loaded (as if on the ground) stance.
Yes, I'd recommend these shocks to anyone in my situation. Happy (better) driving.
As an FYI, I had a blown front strut. Dealer wanted dealer money to replace one strut (SACHS brand). With that price known, I figured I could do all 4 for the price of one if I supplied the labor. I bought the car used (spent most of its life as a condo car in FL) out of Long Island. I suspect the early failure was due to the crater size drain covers on the highway in Long Island (if you have driven in and around NYC you know what I am talking about). Needless to say, after a little research I settled on Bilstien HD B6's on all 4 corners as I did not want to alter the ride height. The car has ~50,000 miles at the time of the swap. Here are my driving impressions thus far after putting about 3,000+ miles on it:
1) Drastically reduces nose dive under heavy breaking (bonus, brakes seem to be working more efficiently).
2) Less body roll in S turns/transitional turns from one side to another.
3) More connected feeling to the road. If you are a driver you know what I am talking about here.
4) Firmer, but not in a bad way, ride.
5) Passes the "wife" test as it is her car (she does not notice that much of a difference and is not complaining about the ride). She still loves her car so that is a plus.
6) The ONLY harshness that is noticeably different is true perpendicular expansion joints. These are met with a firm (but not harsh) thump. On a recent drive south (1400 miles) I hit just three such joints where I noticed a difference between the Sachs and Bilstien. The Sachs would have absorbed the joint more softly.
Bottom line...these are the shocks that MB should have put on the vehicle to begin with. Yes, the car is not as "floaty" or cloud-like but the driving experience is vastly improved. There is a noticeable difference in build quality favoring the Bilstien. I purchased the gear from FCP Euro (great customer service). My MB dealer did the alignment afterwards and they were asking about my first impressions. I think if the dealer could install these as an aftermarket HD option/upgrade they would (MB USA / Bilstien are you listening?). The service tech was keen to hear the "float" was taken out of the car as many people have complained about this on the standard models since new.
The only tool I needed to add to the garage was a 1/2 impact to get the front axles off. You will need an assortment of torque wrenches and a big breaker bar (to get the +degrees needed for proper torque on the new axle nuts). Also, don't forget the suspension components are torqued at a vehicle loaded (as if on the ground) stance.
Yes, I'd recommend these shocks to anyone in my situation. Happy (better) driving.
I concur this certainly improves on the "floaty ride complaint" associated with the stock dampers.
I changed the rears shocks and went with the B6, and getting ready to add to the front. I am trying to order parts for the front shocks, but I have question about the front coil over assembly. Anybody's experiences or thoughts would be appreciated.
FCP website shows the strut mount for the 164 as compatible on the 166.https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...-b1-1643200026
Bilstein USA does not indicate that they make a stock mount for the 166.
MB has separate part #s for the two cars stock mount 1643200026 and 1663200326
I understand that the strut mount and parts can be reused. However, I like to replace parts subject to potential wear when I making repairs, with respect to the old saying if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Main goal here, I don't want to do all the work to replace an old noisy shock, only to create a new noise.
Could anybody provide a parts list for required, and optional, parts for rebuild and replacement of the coil over assembly?
Has anybody used the FCP strut mount on a 166? Or, are all of the old parts generally good i.e. no rubber shims?
Thanks in advance
J
Don't forget to get a dealer alignment after your wrenching.
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Alignment is absolutely planed.
Good to here your shims, inserts, were in good shape. I'm hoping that I don't find any worn parts while I have this taken apart.
In case anybody else comes to the question, FCP Euro was very helpful identifying the parts. Referencing my VIN - he was able to identify the 1643200026 bilstein shock mount as the appropriate part # for my W166.
I'll reply when I see how it all works out. Parts are on the way.
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Re-using the existing mounts I ended up with the front end at the same level, and had the alignment checked with only minor adjustments. Ride, don't wait or second guess the B6. The ride is firm and much more stable for the vehicle, with out sacrificing comfort. Our is a 2wd Base, and the change was straight forward and simple as any other 2wd suspension. I had a local shop swap the shocks in the assembly, took them 30 minutes and only cost $50, well worth it.




Last edited by nielsenml; Sep 29, 2021 at 04:06 PM.
As an FYI, I had a blown front strut. Dealer wanted dealer money to replace one strut (SACHS brand). With that price known, I figured I could do all 4 for the price of one if I supplied the labor. I bought the car used (spent most of its life as a condo car in FL) out of Long Island. I suspect the early failure was due to the crater size drain covers on the highway in Long Island (if you have driven in and around NYC you know what I am talking about). Needless to say, after a little research I settled on Bilstien HD B6's on all 4 corners as I did not want to alter the ride height. The car has ~50,000 miles at the time of the swap. Here are my driving impressions thus far after putting about 3,000+ miles on it:
1) Drastically reduces nose dive under heavy breaking (bonus, brakes seem to be working more efficiently).
2) Less body roll in S turns/transitional turns from one side to another.
3) More connected feeling to the road. If you are a driver you know what I am talking about here.
4) Firmer, but not in a bad way, ride.
5) Passes the "wife" test as it is her car (she does not notice that much of a difference and is not complaining about the ride). She still loves her car so that is a plus.
6) The ONLY harshness that is noticeably different is true perpendicular expansion joints. These are met with a firm (but not harsh) thump. On a recent drive south (1400 miles) I hit just three such joints where I noticed a difference between the Sachs and Bilstien. The Sachs would have absorbed the joint more softly.
Bottom line...these are the shocks that MB should have put on the vehicle to begin with. Yes, the car is not as "floaty" or cloud-like but the driving experience is vastly improved. There is a noticeable difference in build quality favoring the Bilstien. I purchased the gear from FCP Euro (great customer service). My MB dealer did the alignment afterwards and they were asking about my first impressions. I think if the dealer could install these as an aftermarket HD option/upgrade they would (MB USA / Bilstien are you listening?). The service tech was keen to hear the "float" was taken out of the car as many people have complained about this on the standard models since new.
The only tool I needed to add to the garage was a 1/2 impact to get the front axles off. You will need an assortment of torque wrenches and a big breaker bar (to get the +degrees needed for proper torque on the new axle nuts). Also, don't forget the suspension components are torqued at a vehicle loaded (as if on the ground) stance.
Yes, I'd recommend these shocks to anyone in my situation. Happy (better) driving.







