Who do you have work on your vehicle?
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Ram
Who do you have work on your vehicle?
2013 ML550 I bought about a year ago for my dad. The bank wanted an extended warranty on it, so I have one of those aftermarket warranties that covers some, but not all things. My dad let me know about some noises someone told him they heard, and I drove it and do believe we have some sort of failure in the drivetrain. Maybe transmission or axle, but considering I had to pay thousands for the warranty, I’m not digging into it myself. Also seems that it has an oil leak somewhere up front too that I noticed when I pulled the skid pan to change the oil. With that said, where do you suggest I take it? Maybe if any of you happen to be in Albuquerque, NM you could suggest a specific shop but there are really only 3 options I’m aware of. Two independents who focus on German vehicles and the Mercedes dealer. I took a VW to one of the independents some years back for A/C work and paid $1500 to be told it was something else that would cost a couple thousand more to fix. So minimal confidence there. The other independent I have only seen the outside of their shop which looks like it hasn’t been refreshed in about 30 years. The Mercedes dealer, I feel I could trust, but worried that they may not play nice with the aftermarket warranty people and frankly, I’d rather not come out of pocket more than my deductible, otherwise I’d just do the work myself.
So what are your thoughts on questionable independents? Or experience with aftermarket warranty work through the dealer?
So what are your thoughts on questionable independents? Or experience with aftermarket warranty work through the dealer?
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Ram
This is the second vehicle I’ve purchased where the lender required it as a stipulation for approving the loan. Two totally different institutions, both local credit unions. Could there have been a way for me to get out of that, maybe. But the cost of the warranty is negligible if there is catastrophic failure, which seems to be possible on this particular engine/trans combo from what I’ve read. Regardless, I’ve got it, and that doesn’t answer the questions posed at all.
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Too many german broads
This is the second vehicle I’ve purchased where the lender required it as a stipulation for approving the loan. Two totally different institutions, both local credit unions. Could there have been a way for me to get out of that, maybe. But the cost of the warranty is negligible if there is catastrophic failure, which seems to be possible on this particular engine/trans combo from what I’ve read. Regardless, I’ve got it, and that doesn’t answer the questions posed at all.
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Ram
Your only option is the dealer. Also, depending on your warranty, you will be in for over the deductible. If your warranty company is crap, expect issues, most have push back with powertrain related claims. The dealer will accept the warranty but may not match their parts/labor.
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From: Florida
Too many german broads
Curious why you say the dealer is the only option? The contract states that it just has to be an authorized repair facility by an administrator. As for cost, if it is covered under the contract, they should do it for the cost of the deductible. On the truck I had with a similar warranty, they never argued with me once about 3 different instances where they did work, totaling over $7k. Cost me $100 each time. So hopefully this particular situation is similar. If it isn’t, then I’m not sure course of action. I’m not paying anyone else to fix anything beyond deductible. How I recover my expenses probably involves lawyers I guess if it goes that far.
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Okay. There is a lot of subjective thinking with how you're entering this issue. First, how much is your deductible? Does your warranty company limit where you can take the vehicle? Second, what is the issue you're having with your "drive train"? I personally don't trust the dealer, but its up to you where you want to take it. The bill at the dealer is hefty one way or another.
As OnlyGerman said I feel like you've come down to your options with limited research. You're at the mercy of your Warranty if youre going through with them.
As OnlyGerman said I feel like you've come down to your options with limited research. You're at the mercy of your Warranty if youre going through with them.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2020
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Ram
Okay. There is a lot of subjective thinking with how you're entering this issue. First, how much is your deductible? Does your warranty company limit where you can take the vehicle? Second, what is the issue you're having with your "drive train"? I personally don't trust the dealer, but its up to you where you want to take it. The bill at the dealer is hefty one way or another.
As OnlyGerman said I feel like you've come down to your options with limited research. You're at the mercy of your Warranty if youre going through with them.
As OnlyGerman said I feel like you've come down to your options with limited research. You're at the mercy of your Warranty if youre going through with them.
So there are a couple issues that I can tell. Now, I don’t drive this thing often, and when I do it isn’t for very long. But, what I’ve noticed is that sometimes at start up, it rattles and clacks like there’s something hitting something in the front of the vehicle or there’s not enough oil up top. That goes away instantly and doesn’t happen every time. Second, twice now when he has asked me to test drive it, I’ve tried of get on the throttle to accelerate moderately and it sounds like it has spun a bearing and shot a piston through the side of the block for about a half second then when the throttle is let off, it continues to drive completely normal. It is centrifugal, there’s no hole in the block and it continues on driving fine under lower power levels so I am assuming most likely something transmission/axle related. Third - there is evidence of an oil leak on the skid pan up front.
I too, don’t like the idea of taking it to a dealer. I don’t even like the idea of taking it to an independent shop. But, I’m currently working 6 days a week 13 hours a day, so I don’t have the time to fix it myself and I have already paid for the extended warranty so I may as well use it.
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Florida
Too many german broads
Deductible on the warranty is $100. In the contract it states “authorized repair facility” as to where it can be repaired.
So there are a couple issues that I can tell. Now, I don’t drive this thing often, and when I do it isn’t for very long. But, what I’ve noticed is that sometimes at start up, it rattles and clacks like there’s something hitting something in the front of the vehicle or there’s not enough oil up top. That goes away instantly and doesn’t happen every time. Second, twice now when he has asked me to test drive it, I’ve tried of get on the throttle to accelerate moderately and it sounds like it has spun a bearing and shot a piston through the side of the block for about a half second then when the throttle is let off, it continues to drive completely normal. It is centrifugal, there’s no hole in the block and it continues on driving fine under lower power levels so I am assuming most likely something transmission/axle related. Third - there is evidence of an oil leak on the skid pan up front.
I too, don’t like the idea of taking it to a dealer. I don’t even like the idea of taking it to an independent shop. But, I’m currently working 6 days a week 13 hours a day, so I don’t have the time to fix it myself and I have already paid for the extended warranty so I may as well use it.
So there are a couple issues that I can tell. Now, I don’t drive this thing often, and when I do it isn’t for very long. But, what I’ve noticed is that sometimes at start up, it rattles and clacks like there’s something hitting something in the front of the vehicle or there’s not enough oil up top. That goes away instantly and doesn’t happen every time. Second, twice now when he has asked me to test drive it, I’ve tried of get on the throttle to accelerate moderately and it sounds like it has spun a bearing and shot a piston through the side of the block for about a half second then when the throttle is let off, it continues to drive completely normal. It is centrifugal, there’s no hole in the block and it continues on driving fine under lower power levels so I am assuming most likely something transmission/axle related. Third - there is evidence of an oil leak on the skid pan up front.
I too, don’t like the idea of taking it to a dealer. I don’t even like the idea of taking it to an independent shop. But, I’m currently working 6 days a week 13 hours a day, so I don’t have the time to fix it myself and I have already paid for the extended warranty so I may as well use it.
