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Just to confirm, that pic is an ML with standard lights. Does this still work with ILS and auto-leveling feature?
I see you’re in Canada, if you are looking for new bulbs, have a look at www.winnipegHID.com I’ve bought a few things from them and the prices are good.
That's also exactly where I was looking. I've bought from there as well, best prices I've found so far.
I just ordered mine last Friday. I’ll post an update once I get them installed. I have Osram cool blue intense in my Audi and they are awesome. White and bright. But they cost a lot more. These Morimoto have good ratings so I’m going to give them a try.
Changed the DRL’s to yellow. Vivid deep yellow headlight tint film. Sure stands out a lot. I don’t think it’s legal but it looks cool. And it seems twice as bright as the white color. I was at the Mercedes dealership today and they were all very confused by it haha. And everyone there needed to know how I did it.
Added some fender flares to protect the paint from the wide wheels. Drove to Vancouver last week over the mountain passes and just trashed the paint on my front bumper. They use a lot of sand and gravel here on the roads. Broken windshield also… it was brand new 3 weeks ago. Guess I’ll be getting the front bumper repainted in the spring. Also my lowering links showed up today, so as soon as it warms up a bit I’ll get them installed. Not sure how much I can really lower it before the tires hit the fenders. It’s stock height in sport mode in these pics. I’m thinking maybe 3/4” in the front and 1” in the rear to level it out.
The fenders are a nice touch! are these universal flex? If so I assume they can't be painted? I ordered some GLE 63S fenders from CKM but now I wonder if I should go this route
Yeah they are universal flares made of soft rubber. They are the 1” wide. I got them on Amazon. I was also thinking about the GLE flares but they are expensive and have to be painted. These ones actually look pretty good and they work well, so I might keep them on for a while. They remind me of the black flares on the newer Mercedes SUV’s so they don’t really look out of place.
I wouldn't use lowering links, think ti would be better to get your own Xentry system or have remote coding done to lower the car. You have Airmatic so why not just lower it via software?
Looks like your front bumper has been repainted possibly? MB Clear Coat doesn't typically have that much orange peel. The car is almost fully loaded, missing Distronic, possibly heated cup holders?.
In terms of putting on new wheels, just be careful with how it may affect the aftermarket warranty, some warranty companies can be a pain to deal with at times for "modifying the car" For example if the repair for an air strut was needed, they could potentially blame it on your wheels just to get out of it. or having morimoto bulbs in the light when the ballast fails.
Get the OEM 21 inch wheels from the other ML550's I personally like W166 parts going with the ML, not a huge fan of mixing X164 parts in.
I DONT MEAN TO BE NEGATIVE!!!!!!
It's nice seeing a fellow Canadian ML owner. Check out my build when you have the time - I went for more of an OEM+ sort of look for my ML400.
Id probably get the painted flairs, repaint the bumper. In terms of headlight bulbs, you can typically find good ones on Facebook Marketplace, Amazon or Kijiji. People sometimes buy them and are just trying to get out of them. I bought my Osram Cool Blue Boost for like $50CAD off of Marketplace
Consider doing some coding modes like typing in motion for the command, and video in motion possibly. Nav update? Or unlocking full Intelligent Light System functions.
Don't make the car, something it isn't. I kinda like how the ML550 looks originally, its kinda stealth haha. But of course its your car and your money going into it.
Also, you mentioned you cracked your windshield. Get an Genuine one, looks like you have night vision! What a rare option, it will probably need calibration via Xentry and when you do get the bumper repainted, be mindful that the 360 Degree Camera will probably need calibration - can be done via Autel
Last edited by ml3504matic____; Feb 23, 2022 at 03:29 AM.
I wouldn't use lowering links, think ti would be better to get your own Xentry system or have remote coding done to lower the car. You have Airmatic so why not just lower it via software?
Looks like your front bumper has been repainted possibly? MB Clear Coat doesn't typically have that much orange peel. The car is almost fully loaded, missing Distronic, possibly heated cup holders?.
In terms of putting on new wheels, just be careful with how it may affect the aftermarket warranty, some warranty companies can be a pain to deal with at times for "modifying the car" For example if the repair for an air strut was needed, they could potentially blame it on your wheels just to get out of it. or having morimoto bulbs in the light when the ballast fails.
Get the OEM 21 inch wheels from the other ML550's I personally like W166 parts going with the ML, not a huge fan of mixing X164 parts in.
I DONT MEAN TO BE NEGATIVE!!!!!!
It's nice seeing a fellow Canadian ML owner. Check out my build when you have the time - I went for more of an OEM+ sort of look for my ML400.
Id probably get the painted flairs, repaint the bumper. In terms of headlight bulbs, you can typically find good ones on Facebook Marketplace, Amazon or Kijiji. People sometimes buy them and are just trying to get out of them. I bought my Osram Cool Blue Boost for like $50CAD off of Marketplace
Consider doing some coding modes like typing in motion for the command, and video in motion possibly. Nav update? Or unlocking full Intelligent Light System functions.
Don't make the car, something it isn't. I kinda like how the ML550 looks originally, its kinda stealth haha. But of course its your car and your money going into it.
Also, you mentioned you cracked your windshield. Get an Genuine one, looks like you have night vision! What a rare option, it will probably need calibration via Xentry and when you do get the bumper repainted, be mindful that the 360 Degree Camera will probably need calibration - can be done via Autel
I might get a lowering module later. I just bought this ML so it’s on the list of things to do. I was just going to do washers in the front and bend the rear sensor brackets but links is quicker to adjust it. I just made my own links with 10mm m6 ball sockets and threaded rod. As for the warranty I’m not too concerned about headlight ballasts or air struts. I’m a mechanic so that stuff is super easy to fix. I’ll get Xentry eventually and play around with it then. I’m only going to lower it a little bit and there’s absolutely no difference between doing links or OBD2 lowering as it all achieves the exact same effect to trick the ride height sensors. You’re either changing voltages and inclination values or moving the sensor arm position physically. The outcome is exactly the same either way. I have Cool blue Intense bulbs in my Audi S4 and they are really good. I just put the Morimoto bulbs in yesterday and they are surprisingly good. They are whiter than the CBI but maybe a tiny bit less bright. My Audi takes D1S also so I might just swap them into the ML. The front bumper has def been repainted in the past, and as for the windshield I’m going to go with OEM glass to make Sure the night vision and all the cameras and sensors work properly. The night vision is pretty cool although it’s totally useless because the display is in the command screen where you can’t really watch it. I definitely didn’t want to leave the vehicle stock because that’s boring. I would have bought a diesel if I was going to do that haha. My whole plan before I bought this twin turbo v8 was wide wheels, lower and louder I love this ML. It’s awesome, it’s powerful and fun to drive.
Last edited by Doubleredrolex; Feb 23, 2022 at 03:57 AM.
I might get a lowering module later. I just bought this ML so it’s on the list of things to do. I was just going to do washers in the front and bend the rear sensor brackets but links is quicker to adjust it. I just made my own links with 10mm m6 ball sockets and threaded rod. As for the warranty I’m not too concerned about headlight ballasts or air struts. I’m a mechanic so that stuff is super easy to fix. I’ll get Xentry eventually and play around with it then. I’m only going to lower it a little bit and there’s absolutely no difference between doing links or OBD2 lowering as it all achieves the exact same effect to trick the ride height sensors. You’re either changing voltages and inclination values or moving the sensor arm position physically. The outcome is exactly the same either way. I have Cool blue Intense bulbs in my Audi S4 and they are really good. I just put the Morimoto bulbs in yesterday and they are surprisingly good. They are whiter than the CBI but maybe a tiny bit less bright. My Audi takes D1S also so I might just swap them into the ML. The front bumper has def been repainted in the past, and as for the windshield I’m going to go with OEM glass to make Sure the night vision and all the cameras and sensors work properly. I definitely didn’t want to leave the vehicle stock because that’s boring. I would have bought a diesel if I was going to do that haha. My whole plan before I bought this twin turbo v8 was wide wheels, lower and louder I love this ML. It’s awesome, it’s powerful and fun to drive.
Haha fair enough. Most coding “retrofits” are more done via vedamio. xentry is more for diagnosis and whatnot.
Maybe you’ll find my build or restoration a bit boring. but maybe there’s some stuff you’ll like. The car is used in my household more then me driving it. I typically drive the E350
Haha fair enough. Most coding “retrofits” are more done via vedamio. xentry is more for diagnosis and whatnot.
Maybe you’ll find my build or restoration a bit boring. but maybe there’s some stuff you’ll like. The car is used in my household more then me driving it. I typically drive the E350
I used to do lots of module Coding and tuning on my Audi S4 with VCDS and a laptop. I don’t really care too much about that stuff anymore. I’ve already got the auto high beam assist and adaptive curve headlights that turn when you turn the steering wheel. I don’t know if I have the low speed cornering lights or not. That would be a nice option to activate. I’m getting an Android 9” touch screen for the ML and it’s got all the updates I would need. The old Mercedes navigation is terrible compared to apple maps which is what I normally use for GPS. I have an android screen in my Audi and it was a fantastic upgrade. I was daily driving an old ML in the winter and my Audi s4 In the summer. Sold the ML, and the Audi is going to get a built engine and single turbo setup for about 600+hp at the wheels. It’s a 6 speed manual v8. Fun car. I also have a 1969 GMC truck that’s been restomodded with a 383 stroker and accuair air ride. I drive that maybe twice a year. And I’ve got motorcycles also. Most of the time they are all parked. Insurance in BC is way too expensive to be able to have everything insured. This newer ML is my new year round daily driver, but it still needs some mods to make it fun. I can’t leave anything alone. I guess it’s the mechanic in me… I’ve always gotta be tinkering and modifying. I grew up working on cars and working in the automotive customizing industry so it’s in my blood. If you have a build page I will for sure check it out. I’m always interested in that kind of thing.
I used to do lots of module Coding and tuning on my Audi S4 with VCDS and a laptop. I don’t really care too much about that stuff anymore. I’ve already got the auto high beam assist and adaptive curve headlights that turn when you turn the steering wheel. I don’t know if I have the low speed cornering lights or not. That would be a nice option to activate. I’m getting an Android 9” touch screen for the ML and it’s got all the updates I would need. The old Mercedes navigation is terrible compared to apple maps which is what I normally use for GPS. I have an android screen in my Audi and it was a fantastic upgrade. I was daily driving an old ML in the winter and my Audi s4 In the summer. Sold the ML, and the Audi is going to get a built engine and single turbo setup for about 600+hp at the wheels. It’s a 6 speed manual v8. Fun car. I also have a 1969 GMC truck that’s been restomodded with a 383 stroker and accuair air ride. I drive that maybe twice a year. And I’ve got motorcycles also. Most of the time they are all parked. Insurance in BC is way too expensive to be able to have everything insured. This newer ML is my new year round daily driver, but it still needs some mods to make it fun. I can’t leave anything alone. I guess it’s the mechanic in me… I’ve always gotta be tinkering and modifying. I grew up working on cars and working in the automotive customizing industry so it’s in my blood. If you have a build page I will for sure check it out. I’m always interested in that kind of thing.
Ah true, i get that. Gas prices in BC puts me in the hospital. They make me scratch my head. Ontario is climbing up to you guys.
The ILS unlocking makes the beam sit a little higher then before and it cuts the “strings” of someone controlling the lights in my opinion. they definitely move more freely now
Ah true, i get that. Gas prices in BC puts me in the hospital. They make me scratch my head. Ontario is climbing up to you guys.
The ILS unlocking makes the beam sit a little higher then before and it cuts the “strings” of someone controlling the lights in my opinion. they definitely move more freely now
The first thing I did the first night I had this ML was aim the low beams up 1.5 turns on the adjuster. They were pointing right at the ground. Absolutely useless. They are twice as good now and not high enough for anyone to flash me. I don’t know why they are aimed down so low from the dealer. Gas prices here are ridiculous. $2.05 for 87 octane last time I looked. I use chevron 91 but I don’t even know what it costs. I don’t even look to be honest. This ML550 sure isn’t easy on gas. I went to Vancouver and got about 14L/100km on the highway and I get about 20 in town or worse depending how I drive it. My Audi is stage 2 tuned for 94-107 octane so that thing costs a fortune to drive these days.
Last edited by Doubleredrolex; Feb 23, 2022 at 04:33 AM.
Break in oil change after 1500km. Oil was really black. No sparkles or chunks or metal so that’s good. Haha.
filled it with Castrol edge full synth 5w40 and 2 bottles of Liquimoly Ceratec.
Mine is the extended oil capacity +800ml as per the VIN. It was aprox 9.5 maybe it was 9. Nine liters of oil plus 600ml of Ceratec went in and it’s right to the full line.
Last edited by Doubleredrolex; Mar 5, 2022 at 12:57 AM.
Got my lowering module today. Those wonderful canbus computer hackers from Most Wanted Mods make some cool gadgets. This lowering module is the coolest thing ever. Super easy to use. This is the -32mm front and rear “LOW” mode and it’s pretty low. This ML550 was already pretty low from the factory. I’ve got crazy negative camber now front and rear now. I’m going to adjust the rear camber bolts as far as they will go, and maybe raise the front up 10mm for now until I can investigate some options for the front camber adjustment like those Kmac bushings or whatever it is. The ride is noticeably stiffer in sport mode. Comfort mode is still smoother than sport was from factory. I’m very happy with this lowering module. Worth every penny. Sorry for the dirty ML in the pics. Didn’t feel like washing it because it’s going to rain more.
This is -30mm rear and -25mm front. More of a level stance. Not sure which I like better. It looks a little exaggerated in this pic because the ground isn’t level. I need to adjust the rear camber as soon as I have some free time. I’ll just set it so it’s the same as the front, or max out the adjusters, whichever comes first.
Break in oil change after 1500km. Oil was really black. No sparkles or chunks or metal so that’s good. Haha.
filled it with Castrol edge full synth 5w40 and 2 bottles of Liquimoly Ceratec.
Oil extractor. Pulled out 9.5 liters.
In the future, if you have the rubber cork for your evacuator, you can just plug the top of where you extract the oil and drain it that way. Gets more oil out from what I've heard.
In the future, if you have the rubber cork for your evacuator, you can just plug the top of where you extract the oil and drain it that way. Gets more oil out from what I've heard.
you pull the oil out from the dipstick tube. It’s barely large enough to put the tube into. The only rubber seal is the tube going into the extractor and it’s like an inch and a half in diameter.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
- I went for more of an OEM+ sort of look for my ML400.
