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Ok, had ignition coil #3 fail recently and dealer replaced it for too much money. Now #4 is bad and I figured it would not be too hard to do myself, which it isn't . . . .except for the connector on the coil. I pulled the grey tab out, and wiggled, pulled, yanked, but can't get the connection apart. Otherwise it should be an easy repair. Any suggestions? The last thing I need is to break something. Thanks!!
It is a two step process either way
disconnect:
1 - slide gray clip away from the coil, listen to click. stop.
2 - press gray down, and while pressing pull body of the connector away from the coil
Connect
1 - push body connector into the coil, listen to click, stop
2 - slide gray clip in towards the coil, listen to click. DONE
It is a two step process either way
disconnect:
1 - slide gray clip away from the coil, listen to click. stop.
2 - press gray down, and while pressing pull body of the connector away from the coil
Connect
1 - push body connector into the coil, listen to click, stop
2 - slide gray clip in towards the coil, listen to click. DONE
Hope it helps
Thanks for the tip. Yes, it should be a simple process but I could not get it to budge!!
SOLVED
I found a post from 6/7/21 that had a suggestion about using toothpicks from contributor S-Prihadi . . . (I don't know how to link old threads, so here is the text):
"Pressing down the white plastic locking mechanism DOES NOTHING. White plastic locking mechanism is a stand alone LOCK only, so that inside one, the plastic "springy" latch mechanism can't be accidentally be lifted up by vibration. The black plastic inside the connector, its the "springy" latch mechanism. This one you have to lift up and please use a wooden or plastic tooth pick and not anything hard like screwdriver."
So, I pushed two toothpicks into the end of the connector, had to push hard, and it popped apart quickly, very clean inside, not dirty or corroded. Was able to wrap up job quickly. Hope this helps someone else.
Dust collects between the female harness shell and male coil connector. This acts as an abrasive and if enough dust has built up it jams the connector.
After releasing the unlocking tab and while squeezing the locking lever, push slightly forward (insertion direction), wiggle the female shell, and continue wiggling as the connector is pulled off. This releases all self-locking parts in contact and loosens any dust, allowing easy connector separation.
On reassembly smear a thin film of dielectric grease on the male coil connector to aid in disassembly next time.
Definitely I need to improve my summary and add @chassis and @ChrisHimself advice as well as:
it is likely best if the coil is still bolted, i.e. not moving when trying to break the "baked/sticky" connection. If by chance you miss and pull too hard you may over-stretch the wire and hell can break loose. Murphy's law in action.
I own a 2015 S550 4Matic. I wish I had seen this before. I damaged two of my grey/white locks and another simple just came out. The car has 69K. I suspected that the plugs have never been replaced! The housing was stuck and the lock seems brittle. Help! I need to replace them.
QUOTE=psh2018;8798433]Thanks for the tip. Yes, it should be a simple process but I could not get it to budge!!
SOLVED
I found a post from 6/7/21 that had a suggestion about using toothpicks from contributor S-Prihadi . . . (I don't know how to link old threads, so here is the text):
"Pressing down the white plastic locking mechanism DOES NOTHING. White plastic locking mechanism is a stand alone LOCK only, so that inside one, the plastic "springy" latch mechanism can't be accidentally be lifted up by vibration. The black plastic inside the connector, its the "springy" latch mechanism. This one you have to lift up and please use a wooden or plastic tooth pick and not anything hard like screwdriver."
So, I pushed two toothpicks into the end of the connector, had to push hard, and it popped apart quickly, very clean inside, not dirty or corroded. Was able to wrap up job quickly. Hope this helps someone else.
The latch can be released and depressed correctly, but because dust jams or sticks the connector halves together, the wiggle manuever is needed to break free the dust crust.
I'll second the silicone spray recommendation. Stubborn to get apart? it gets a short blast. Putting together, no matter the condition? Both male and female get hit with silicone spray. Keeps things water resistant and keeps things slippery for later disassembly.
On a professional level I do not bother touching any two surfaces on a hose/electrical connector without some kind of prep. Any breakage can add one day to the job, and customers aren't always understanding of incidentals. You only become smart by doing a lot of dumb things over time.
Basically anything older than 15 years is a caked together financial landmine for a shop without the right precautions
06-16-2023, 07:26 PM
