2012 Mercedes ML 350 cdi wont crank
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Mercedes ML 350 cdi W166
2012 Mercedes ML 350 cdi wont crank
Hi guys,
I have a problem with my 2012 Mercedes ML 350 CDI ,
I've been driving all winter without problems, starts fine, but all of a sudden one morning the car couldn't start and a lot of error codes, I list below.
thought it was the main battery, so I changed it, the car started and I drove home, was going to go the next day and it doesn't even crank and all these error codes come up, and the strangest thing is that it says the gear is in drive! searches around a bit and comes to the conclusion that maybe it's axuallary battery that no good , so i buy a new one and replace that too ,no change the car wont even crank and the gear is still in drive, would appreciate if you have any ideas what I can do to get it to start and get it rolling so I can take it to the Mercedes workshop and do a full diagnosis
I try to start the vehicle and the following messages came up:
- Vehicle Not in P Risk of vehicle rolling away (in red)
- Do Not Shift Gears (in red)
- Parking Brake, See Operator's Manual (in red)
- Run Flat Indicator Inoperative
- Lane Keeping Assist Inoperative
- SRS Malfunction, Service Required
- EBD, ABS , Traction Control , Inoperative, See Operator's Manual
- Blind Spot Assist Inoperative
Thanks in advance
Peter
I have a problem with my 2012 Mercedes ML 350 CDI ,
I've been driving all winter without problems, starts fine, but all of a sudden one morning the car couldn't start and a lot of error codes, I list below.
thought it was the main battery, so I changed it, the car started and I drove home, was going to go the next day and it doesn't even crank and all these error codes come up, and the strangest thing is that it says the gear is in drive! searches around a bit and comes to the conclusion that maybe it's axuallary battery that no good , so i buy a new one and replace that too ,no change the car wont even crank and the gear is still in drive, would appreciate if you have any ideas what I can do to get it to start and get it rolling so I can take it to the Mercedes workshop and do a full diagnosis
I try to start the vehicle and the following messages came up:
- Vehicle Not in P Risk of vehicle rolling away (in red)
- Do Not Shift Gears (in red)
- Parking Brake, See Operator's Manual (in red)
- Run Flat Indicator Inoperative
- Lane Keeping Assist Inoperative
- SRS Malfunction, Service Required
- EBD, ABS , Traction Control , Inoperative, See Operator's Manual
- Blind Spot Assist Inoperative
Thanks in advance
Peter
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Posts: 2,748
Likes: 880
From: In the Shadow of the Tetons
2013 ML350 Bluetec
I'd start by checking the battery voltage, both what a meter tells you on the battery terminals and what the instrument cluster tells you.
Check codes.
If the battery voltage comes up sub-par, you'll get piles of angry codes just because the car is pissed off. Check your battery voltage when the car is running (does your alternator work?). I'd be leaning towards the alternator crapped out, but... Small steps... Don't just start throwing parts at it without knowing why.
Edited to add: The price of a decent two way scanner tool is less than the price you'll pay for a dealer diagnostic, plus you'll have the knowledge to tell if the dealer is being straight with you.
My point? If you don't have a scanner that you can talk to the car with (and have it talk back to you), get one. icarsoft MBII (about $200) is what a lot of people on the forum seem to like, even though it doesn't impress me. I have a computer that can talk to (so far) every make of car I plug it into , for less than $1K.
Check the resting volts on the batteries.
Charge the batteries.
Start the car.
Check the running volts on the batteries.
Is your alternator charging the batteries?
Check codes.
If the battery voltage comes up sub-par, you'll get piles of angry codes just because the car is pissed off. Check your battery voltage when the car is running (does your alternator work?). I'd be leaning towards the alternator crapped out, but... Small steps... Don't just start throwing parts at it without knowing why.
Edited to add: The price of a decent two way scanner tool is less than the price you'll pay for a dealer diagnostic, plus you'll have the knowledge to tell if the dealer is being straight with you.
My point? If you don't have a scanner that you can talk to the car with (and have it talk back to you), get one. icarsoft MBII (about $200) is what a lot of people on the forum seem to like, even though it doesn't impress me. I have a computer that can talk to (so far) every make of car I plug it into , for less than $1K.
Check the resting volts on the batteries.
Charge the batteries.
Start the car.
Check the running volts on the batteries.
Is your alternator charging the batteries?
Last edited by rapidoxidation; Feb 25, 2024 at 12:06 PM.
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Mercedes ML 350 cdi W166
Hi thanks for rapid reply , as i say i have put brand new both batteries , and for sure i can check the voltage on them , but i cant check the running volt of the battery, and i cant check if the alternator charge , simply because the car is not possible to start the car , nothing happens when i turn the key
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,748
Likes: 880
From: In the Shadow of the Tetons
2013 ML350 Bluetec
New battery or old, if the alternator isn't keeping it charged up then you've found the issue. What's the resting voltage? Anything below about 12.3 isn't good.
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Mercedes ML 350 cdi W166
