Front strut replacement on 2015 ML350
It is time for new front struts and lower control arms for our 2015 ML350 4matic w/ 159kmiles and I am struggling with how to approach the struts in a value minded way. It is the original struts, so it is rather impressive, but the car has mostly been on the freeway. I would prefer Bilstein or Sachs struts but I am only able to find the Mercedes genuine strut mount at an "out of body experience" kind of price of 312$/strut
There is no indication the mount is bad but it is obviously not new either - I read many reuse the mount?
Does anybody know of a manufacturer that makes an aftermarket mount for this car? - I found them on eBay but I don't know what to think.
Has anybody had experience with any of the strut and spring assemblies that are available?
We really like the car and would love to keep it for years as it has been very reliable but given the miles I would like to keep the replacement cost reasonable as no one knows if the reliability will continue.
I would really appreciate your guys opinion and experience in regard to strut replacement,
Thank you in advance
Martin
Martin
Car turned in and rode better and front tire wear improved from these parts being swapped. Currently has 168k miles.
The mounts were in good shape still but its also garage kept and we dont see snow/salt.




Martin
I've replaced my strut mounts and SB Links at 60kMi and thought it was an excellent maintenance item.
The stock grease evaporates to leave the bearing races sticky-dry from nearby 200°F engine heat.
The bearing races are 6In. metal rings that are held in place by ABS plastic with a quarter inch freeplay all around.
The top end is one giant soft rubber bushing that holds about 1/4 of all car weight... it gets worned!
Replacing the cheap top mounts will give you back precise self-centered steering.
Do grease the new races with high temp silicon brake grease so they stay well lubed.
The strut bearings rotate with all steering inputs: this is a VIP main function.
> SWAY BAR LINKS 4Pcs:
Lastly if your chassis is bouncy don't overlook stabilizer bar LINKS so called sway-bars both front and rear leaks.
These links are responsible for bounce side to side and bounce front to back... not the shocks/struts!
Only replace struts/shocks when leaky wet, not for bounciness.

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After removing the existing struts I must say the existing mount looked in impeccable condition and looked like it could be used again. I did not expect the TRQ struts to drive as the OEM and I obviously cannot make a back to back with a new OEM but both my wife and I are very pleased with their performance and if they last I can only recommend these struts. The shipping from 1Aauto was rather challenging as the boxes was not fully taped and the top plates somehow managed to fall out of the box during shipping. We thought the new top plate was essential and complained to 1Aauto and ended up with 2 extra strut sets before they decided to tape the boxes and containing the top plates - my mechanic said you can just reuse the the existing top plate.
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One thing that you should know, these models have a variety of part number for springs, which equate to higher weight capacity springs. Things like my diesel engine, the panoramic sunroof and the towing package all were factors. Not all parts people are able (or willing) to go through the process of figuring the correct spring out. They do have paint codes on the existing spring, but its a small dot of paint, and if you car has been through a winter (or ten) there may not be anything visible.
If you are ordering an aftermarket "all together strut assembly", you might not be able to verify the spring that's part of it is the correct one for the vehicle. The lightest capacity spring installed on my heavy diesel rig might make it sit lower and could lead to the spring breaking.
If you are thinking of replacing these as separate pieces, know that the spring compressor you'll need better be strong, these are long, heavy springs






