Understanding Intercooling, Charge-Coolers, Heat Exchangers and Circulation Pumps
#401
Member
Just a heads up guys, there are some brand new 12V Stewart EMP water pumps on ebay right now, the guy had like 7 of them and I bought 2. I made an offer of $250 each for 2 of them and it was accepted. That's practically half price. This is the king of all intercooler pumps. 3 of them left, jump on it!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282195356531
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282195356531
you certain this is a 12v configuration ?
#402
Yes, absolutely. Look at the second image, it has a big picture of the label. 12V-25A. 1030002170 should also be the correct part number for the 12V. That 24V I bought previously is a different part number and says 24V on it. The part number on the listing matches the lingenfelter one (it's actually different than the picture of the label on their website listing, but it matches the part number ..the difference may be due to the programming differences but they are both definitely 12V pumps).
#403
I will be flow-testing it through my system as compared with the stock pump (as well as my series pumps), but it won't be right away as my TIG welder is still broken so I can't build new tanks for that x3 radiator to fix my leak.
Upon doing some more research though, the 1030002106 is the standard WP29. The 1030002170 from that ebay listing is in fact the "upgraded" one that's programmed with the higher current limit. It will draw up to 25 amps depending on system pressure in order to maintain flow rate through a lot more restrictive system. So these are definitely the one to have. It's the one Lingenfelter sells for $550 here: http://www.lingenfelter.com/PROD.htm...7#.V_fWBDW2LLk
Somebody buy the other 3 before I do, lol.
Upon doing some more research though, the 1030002106 is the standard WP29. The 1030002170 from that ebay listing is in fact the "upgraded" one that's programmed with the higher current limit. It will draw up to 25 amps depending on system pressure in order to maintain flow rate through a lot more restrictive system. So these are definitely the one to have. It's the one Lingenfelter sells for $550 here: http://www.lingenfelter.com/PROD.htm...7#.V_fWBDW2LLk
Somebody buy the other 3 before I do, lol.
#405
Member
Yes, absolutely. Look at the second image, it has a big picture of the label. 12V-25A. 1030002170 should also be the correct part number for the 12V. That 24V I bought previously is a different part number and says 24V on it. The part number on the listing matches the lingenfelter one (it's actually different than the picture of the label on their website listing, but it matches the part number ..the difference may be due to the programming differences but they are both definitely 12V pumps).
#406
Well these are compatible with CAN controlled vehicles like the newer GMs, which our cars aren't (at least in 03-06), so it's not so much to do with the programming that communicates with the car, it's just the built-in current limiting in the programming that is changed between the two versions as far as I know. We will just be running them off a relay like the stock pump though so the CAN side of things ia irrelevant unless you're running a controller or have a vehicle that currently has a pump with integrated controller/computer.
#407
Member
Well these are compatible with CAN controlled vehicles like the newer GMs, which our cars aren't (at least in 03-06), so it's not so much to do with the programming that communicates with the car, it's just the built-in current limiting in the programming that is changed between the two versions as far as I know. We will just be running them off a relay like the stock pump though so the CAN side of things ia irrelevant unless you're running a controller or have a vehicle that currently has a pump with integrated controller/computer.
Moreover, I think it makes sense to try and run this monster on some form of a controller rather than a ON/OFF circuit. There's several types of pump/fan controllers on the market (e.g:http://www.lingenfelter.com/product/...l#.V_gCqCgrJhE) , I'm just not sure if they will work with the EMP pump.
#408
I am 99.9% sure it just needs power, ground, and ignition (or other trigger signal). The pdf installation manual specifically says to block the 6-pin CAN plug if not using it. I will be running mine 100% of the time. I understand not everyone would want to do that.
#409
Member
Keep us posted on how it goes. I won't be able to touch mine until December.
#410
I will go ahead and rig up a test through the stock s600 HE I still have laying around before I hook it up permanently. I can just put the HE inline right after the pump so I'll basically have the equivalent of a stock system as far as restrictions goes (except I have Ys now instead of Ts). It might be a real trick flow-testing this thing with 5-gallon buckets though if it flows 20gpm, lol. I have 3/4" lines still though so I think with the extra flow the stock system will have quite a bit of pressure drop and it may well be more along the lines of the 10gpm or so lingenfelter was seeing on the ZL1 setup. I will probably eventually upgrade to a 1" suction line and leave the 3/4" on the pressure side since that's what the intercooler barbs are anyway, but these first tests will be 3/4" on the inlet as well.
#411
Member
I will go ahead and rig up a test through the stock s600 HE I still have laying around before I hook it up permanently. I can just put the HE inline right after the pump so I'll basically have the equivalent of a stock system as far as restrictions goes (except I have Ys now instead of Ts). It might be a real trick flow-testing this thing with 5-gallon buckets though if it flows 20gpm, lol. I have 3/4" lines still though so I think with the extra flow the stock system will have quite a bit of pressure drop and it may well be more along the lines of the 10gpm or so lingenfelter was seeing on the ZL1 setup. I will probably eventually upgrade to a 1" suction line and leave the 3/4" on the pressure side since that's what the intercooler barbs are anyway, but these first tests will be 3/4" on the inlet as well.
#412
I will keep that in mind but the bucket method seems to work alright and I'd hate to have anything happen (lost in shipping, etc). Even if it were putting out 20gpm that's still a 15 second fill time. Fairly easy to get reasonably close with a stop watch.
#413
I have been thinking about my ice box for when I build my custom spare tire tank. I think the primary issue with it is likely that there is no way the ice will melt as fast as the intercoolers are picking up heat from the charge air. Which isn't an issue in a system flowing significantly less than it's total water volume during a pass anyway, but if the new pump flows 20gpm or more then the intercoolers may in fact see the same water twice during a pass. So I am thinking I need to make a maze inside the ice box so that it actually functions as a heat exchanger internally. Basically forxe the water to go back and forth through the tank from the return to the pump inlet. Obviously it wouldn't be a perfect seal since I can most likely only weld the bottom side of the maze, but the water is going to mostly stay along the bottom 3/4 anyway and it would definitely make for a much longer flow-path and guaranteed contact time with ice. It should also help prevent ice from working its way down and blocking the pickup. Thoughts?
#414
I have been thinking about my ice box for when I build my custom spare tire tank. I think the primary issue with it is likely that there is no way the ice will melt as fast as the intercoolers are picking up heat from the charge air. Which isn't an issue in a system flowing significantly less than it's total water volume during a pass anyway, but if the new pump flows 20gpm or more then the intercoolers may in fact see the same water twice during a pass. So I am thinking I need to make a maze inside the ice box so that it actually functions as a heat exchanger internally. Basically forxe the water to go back and forth through the tank from the return to the pump inlet. Obviously it wouldn't be a perfect seal since I can most likely only weld the bottom side of the maze, but the water is going to mostly stay along the bottom 3/4 anyway and it would definitely make for a much longer flow-path and guaranteed contact time with ice. It should also help prevent ice from working its way down and blocking the pickup. Thoughts?
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Mackhack (10-20-2016)
#418
#420
No problem. I just got my TIG welder back from warranty repair so I'm going to be attempting to weld custom tanks onto mine to hopefully stop it from springing a new leak every couple weeks. Ideally, I can make the fit a little better as well. If you're not in a huge hurry to get this done you might want to wait and see how mine comes out, as I could potentially be persuaded to duplicate it. I have some other projects to get to first so I don't know how long it will be before I feel like tearing apart my front end again, but I am wanting to get to it before the weather gets nice again so the car will be ready to go when the track opens.
#422
#423
Super Member
And I wonder if somebody have a picture about SL65 HE also. I now its bigger than SL600.
Anyone??
Anyone??
#425
Super Member
I have exactly same heat exchangers at my SL600 also.
Are those from an SL65 or 600?
Look. I found this info. Mercedes SL65 AMG Black Series Heat exchanger located like this. Two piece. One at the left side and one at the right side. Big ones.
So why not for the wide body cars? The tunnels is also there... it must be very effective solution.
Are those from an SL65 or 600?
Look. I found this info. Mercedes SL65 AMG Black Series Heat exchanger located like this. Two piece. One at the left side and one at the right side. Big ones.
So why not for the wide body cars? The tunnels is also there... it must be very effective solution.
Last edited by Ekselent; 01-18-2017 at 07:03 PM.