W211 E55 amg airmatic complete system
For SaleSteering/Suspension
Nov 11, 2019, 06:40 PM | Replies: 24 | Views: 2274
-
Price
$1• OBO
- Location Austin, TX, 78729, USA
- Condition Used
- Compatibility
| Make | Model | Year |
|---|---|---|
| Mercedes-Benz | E55 AMG | 2003 - 2006 |
Description:
Selling all the shocks, airbags, struts, air pump, hoses, tubes, valve block, airmatic/shock/parking combination control switch height sensors and steel F1 fab height sensor links. Please let me know what you need and I'll let you know the cost+ shipping. The system was working properly with no errors or warnings.
Rear airbags -SOLD
Right Front shock -SOLD
Right rear struct -SoLD
Last edited by bdragomir; Nov 26, 2019 at 06:40 PM.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
2004 E55 & 2004 E500 (W211)
Tthank you for posting that link, we did a scan of it today and got a 500b code.(control unit N51 internal fault open circuit )I Ordered a new one (Module ) , well...new to me lol arrives this wed Dec 4..
I Honestly believe the rear shock is bad, car has @ 68 k on it, but sitting that much may have not helped it...
As soon as I know ill be in contact with you to see. if it is still available, thanks for taking the time to respond ..
Happy Holidays !!
I Honestly believe the rear shock is bad, car has @ 68 k on it, but sitting that much may have not helped it...
As soon as I know ill be in contact with you to see. if it is still available, thanks for taking the time to respond ..
Happy Holidays !!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
2004 E55 & 2004 E500 (W211)
my .02$ - before doing anything check the plugs behind the inner fender and make sure the connector is properly inserted. While at that inspect the shock wire and make sure it is not damaged. The last thing I'd do is fire up xentry under suspension check rear dampers voltage, that should tell you exactly what is happening. Nevertheless, if you need the shock let me know. Happy holidays to you too!
Last edited by bdragomir; Nov 28, 2019 at 11:52 PM.
oh I have scanners, but only snap on, wanting t purchase a star system , not sure what I need , c3/c4...have a few American made toys, 1987 Gnx Grand National (077)
a regular 87 grand National , and a 2008 Z06 ....as you, im sure you have the automobile bug..lol
a regular 87 grand National , and a 2008 Z06 ....as you, im sure you have the automobile bug..lol
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
2004 E55 & 2004 E500 (W211)
got it. Yeah we do have the same bug.
I know some autels' and probably snapons' allow testing modules, see if you can get to the suspension and if you have the damper tests available, alternately the logical way to draw a semi educated conclusion would be to erase the code and see if it comes back immediately when you put the key on position 2, if it does then most likely it is electrical(wire/module), if it doesn't then leave the key on #2 and press the damper adjustment button the one near the height adjustment one, if that triggers the code then it is the damper itself. if none triggers and it comes on randomly ... well you need to investigate a little more
I know some autels' and probably snapons' allow testing modules, see if you can get to the suspension and if you have the damper tests available, alternately the logical way to draw a semi educated conclusion would be to erase the code and see if it comes back immediately when you put the key on position 2, if it does then most likely it is electrical(wire/module), if it doesn't then leave the key on #2 and press the damper adjustment button the one near the height adjustment one, if that triggers the code then it is the damper itself. if none triggers and it comes on randomly ... well you need to investigate a little more
Update....
I received my MB star c4 today
I did some testing, damper valve(s) in position 1 and position 2 run @ 490 ma or mv but they were all just about spot on ,if i remember correctly, but that doesn't mean actual shock is toast....going to do a load adjustment , and i guess the only way to really test that shock, is to pull it out ....
i backed into our driveway this evening and when going over curb, rear right has no real shock absorbing ....
Thanks
I received my MB star c4 today
I did some testing, damper valve(s) in position 1 and position 2 run @ 490 ma or mv but they were all just about spot on ,if i remember correctly, but that doesn't mean actual shock is toast....going to do a load adjustment , and i guess the only way to really test that shock, is to pull it out ....
i backed into our driveway this evening and when going over curb, rear right has no real shock absorbing ....
Thanks
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
2004 E55 & 2004 E500 (W211)
it seems that the coils are fine but the shock is bad. The voltage will show fine but the shock would be inefficient. If you can press it and it doesn't return then the shock is toast
I think you hit the nail on the head, going to try and pull it out tomorrow evening, ill report back, thanks again for your help , love the car, just want to get it right, this ones a keeper....and this 30 degree weather, pulls like a freight train ...lol
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
2004 E55 & 2004 E500 (W211)
the valve block doesn't have any electronic components so the only way to "test" it is by elimination. You add psi to the rear springs with star and check if the air reaches the springs you do the same with the front air shocks and check if the air reaches the shocks, you fill the central reservoir twice and see if the second time the pump stops almost immediately (it should be already filled). The safest way to know the valve block is bad is when you get the code.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
2004 E55 & 2004 E500 (W211)
btw you might not need to pull it out. you can disconnect the bottom bolt and just grab it and push it straight up if you can push it without any effort and it fails to return on his own then it is toast. Alternately, open the trunk and depending on your weight you can push down on the corner on that side and see if it returns fast then the damper is bad if the return is slower and no bouncing up and down happens then it is good. With the last method you can be tricked by the air spring if you're not heavy enough to be able to push it down enough. I thought I posted the answer to your question about the valve block... the valve block (VB) has no electronic components so the codes and testing happens using elimination and deduction adding air to the shocks and comparing the pressures at different times as well as the time needed to reach the pressure would be the way to go. If you don't know how the valve block looks like think of a distributor that directs the air where it is needed. The different pressures are enforced at the shock level not at the valve block. I've rarely seen vb's going bad that said I was "fortunate" to have a bad one but I was getting the codes for it. If you need one let me know.
Last edited by bdragomir; Dec 10, 2019 at 11:47 PM.
i see what you were saying about the valve block, the bar pressure would drop if the seats were bad, they are good, , the right rear shock i believe has lost its ability to be a shock absorber, i pushed down on left rear ...pushed down once came up and dead stop....pushed down on RR and it was bouncy no real absorption, just kinda floats...if you still have that shock, could you give me pricing to 45103, i appreciate your help..have a good evening


