92 190E Poor idle
07-13-2002, 12:15 PM
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72 220d
92 190E Poor idle
1992 MB 190E 2.3 L
I have a 1992 190E that shakes at an idle. When I'm driving
down the road the car is fine. But stopped and idling I can
feel the car shake. Off idle it's OK. The head gasket was
replaced before I got the car. Below is a list of the things
I've checked. Does anyone know what the valve timing is supposed to be? The exhaust valve closing before TDC seems wrong to me?
Engine mounts: OK
Compression: All 160 psi
Cylinder balance: even
Ignition
spark: OK
wires, cap, rotor & timing
adjust timing: 0 deg
replace plugs: Bosche platinum
Fuel System
fuel sample: OK
cold start valve: OK (line disconnected)
system pressure: 80 psi
lower chamber pressure: 74 psi (raises to 80 on decel)
regulator current: 20 ma @ start up; + or - 1 @ warm idle
temp sensor: 2.200 ohm @ 65 F; 300 ohm @ 170 F
throttle switches: OK
air meter: clean & free
air meter position sensor: OK
vacuum leaks: none
decel switch: OK
inspect injector spray: streams
replace 4 injectors and seals
remove throttle body and clean
EGR system: valve OK; vacuum switch broken
replace EGR thermal vacuum switch
O2 sensor: low steady reading
replace O2 sensor: varies .2v to .8v
Charcoal canister purge valve: OK
Cam timing: intake opens @ 18 deg BTC
exhaust closed @ 4 deg BTC
Thanks Jim
I have a 1992 190E that shakes at an idle. When I'm driving
down the road the car is fine. But stopped and idling I can
feel the car shake. Off idle it's OK. The head gasket was
replaced before I got the car. Below is a list of the things
I've checked. Does anyone know what the valve timing is supposed to be? The exhaust valve closing before TDC seems wrong to me?
Engine mounts: OK
Compression: All 160 psi
Cylinder balance: even
Ignition
spark: OK
wires, cap, rotor & timing
adjust timing: 0 deg
replace plugs: Bosche platinum
Fuel System
fuel sample: OK
cold start valve: OK (line disconnected)
system pressure: 80 psi
lower chamber pressure: 74 psi (raises to 80 on decel)
regulator current: 20 ma @ start up; + or - 1 @ warm idle
temp sensor: 2.200 ohm @ 65 F; 300 ohm @ 170 F
throttle switches: OK
air meter: clean & free
air meter position sensor: OK
vacuum leaks: none
decel switch: OK
inspect injector spray: streams
replace 4 injectors and seals
remove throttle body and clean
EGR system: valve OK; vacuum switch broken
replace EGR thermal vacuum switch
O2 sensor: low steady reading
replace O2 sensor: varies .2v to .8v
Charcoal canister purge valve: OK
Cam timing: intake opens @ 18 deg BTC
exhaust closed @ 4 deg BTC
Thanks Jim
07-13-2002, 01:56 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm assuming you've had your car hooked up to proper diagnostice equipment (?). You hit all
the normal/first guesses I would have done. I believe the performance would be WAY off if valve timing were off a tooth...it's not like it's adjustable.
the normal/first guesses I would have done. I believe the performance would be WAY off if valve timing were off a tooth...it's not like it's adjustable.
07-13-2002, 05:47 PM
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However you have checked a lot, I did not see the spark plug caps in the list. If you do not have a ignition scope maybe you can check them with an ohmmeter. They should be around 1200 ohm. Megas or even Infinite is too much.
It can also be the fuel distributor head. A quantity comparison check can tell. They should not difer more than 10% at idle.
Did you check the exhaust gases? How much HC do you have?
Patrick
It can also be the fuel distributor head. A quantity comparison check can tell. They should not difer more than 10% at idle.
Did you check the exhaust gases? How much HC do you have?
Patrick
