89 190e High Hc/co
#26
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You give me GOOD NEWS thaks againg
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I will do my home work
That is exactly what you had too do!
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So you are seing between .490v and .890v !
So you are almost stockiometric (meaby a bit lean but neglectable) ! That means that there is no problem at idle AND that your ECU is correctly correcting the mixture, else you wouldnt be soo close of the stockiometric mixture of 0.5V
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The x11 reading of 0.632v and.634v is no good... I dont know why, but it should not give those values... Something is wrong, but its not really important since youre O2 sensor is telling you that the mixture is good! So forget the X11 and lets continue the diagnose with the value of the O2!
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Ok, so Now we need to know if youre exhaust gas is correct at Idle? Is the excess CO and HC at idle speed? If not, at witch RPM was it tested?
If it was test at idle speed thant something mecanical is wrong, like valve or pistons/rings (except if youre O2 sensor is REALLY old), was the O2 sensor changed recently?
So I am waiting youre answers for those 2 questions!
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If you have the chance please do this 2 other tests:
1- You have a little black box plugged on the Fuel distributor, it has an electrical connector on it, it is caled the EHA (Electro Hydrolic actuator), are car has a compleately mecanical injection EXCEPT this EHA. This EHA can control a bit the fuel mixture and is used by the ECU to keep the Air fuel ration close of the 0.5V that you where reading. Normaly even without that EHA control you should have a mixture close of 0.5V. That is what you should test... To do so:
Just unplug the electric plug that is on that EHA, than take again the O2 reading like you did. Notes between witch values the voltage is fluctuating. Give us those values please.
2- Replug back the EHA like it was. At idle take again the values of the O2, and gradually increase the idle speed with the fuel pedal. Note at witch RPM the values of the O2 sensor is out of limit (inferior limit is about 0.2V and superior limit is like 0.9V). In summary, note the RPM at witch the reading is toping off... Give us this RPM...[/QUOTE]
#27
hmm ok...
So at 0.9V it seems that the mixture is too lean for the O2 sensor being able to measure it...
Please do the 2 little test that I told you, it is possible that the voltage of the O2 will stay at 0.9V without the EHA connected at idle, but you have to verify this. The Fuel distributor is beside the AFM, its the big metal component with the 4 fuels lines that goes to the injectors. The EHA is pluged on this fuel distributor on the side that is closer to the conductor.There is only 1 electrical plug on it.
And also increase the rpm of the engin until you have a decrease of the Voltage at the O2 sensor, note this rpm please. (Its possible that you wont see any decrease of voltage at sensor, but you have to verify)
By the way, you are sure that there is no hole or leak in the exhaust tubing between the O2 sensor and the engine? (air could enter the exhaust and show some wrong voltage signal at the O2 sensor)
So at 0.9V it seems that the mixture is too lean for the O2 sensor being able to measure it...
Please do the 2 little test that I told you, it is possible that the voltage of the O2 will stay at 0.9V without the EHA connected at idle, but you have to verify this. The Fuel distributor is beside the AFM, its the big metal component with the 4 fuels lines that goes to the injectors. The EHA is pluged on this fuel distributor on the side that is closer to the conductor.There is only 1 electrical plug on it.
And also increase the rpm of the engin until you have a decrease of the Voltage at the O2 sensor, note this rpm please. (Its possible that you wont see any decrease of voltage at sensor, but you have to verify)
By the way, you are sure that there is no hole or leak in the exhaust tubing between the O2 sensor and the engine? (air could enter the exhaust and show some wrong voltage signal at the O2 sensor)
Last edited by canada011; 05-13-2006 at 02:03 AM.
#28
home work
HI tday I unplug the electric for EHA and took readings on o2 sensor and it read this .880v and .885v(this plug has to legs on ti? #2 I plug EHA back at idle reads .912v and ,916v02 sensor, then gradually increase idle speed to4500rpm o2 sensor reads .168v to .745v bellow 4ooorpm reads .456v .654 v.845v
#29
Cool!
So I think that you did all what you could too test the car![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The verdict is that the mixture seems to be too lean at idle, but when increasing rpm the mixture enrich itselve (and that is normal) and brings a correct Air/fuel mixture.
YOure engine is having the good mixture except at idle. You should enrich abit the mixture at idle, to do soo there is a sort of alen screw that you can turn to enrich a bit the mixture. Do you see the cylindrical tower between the Fuel distributor and the AFM? Its about 1in high I think. Look at it carfully and see if you can put an allen key in it. Normally this "tower" is blocked by a little metal ball... If it had already been modified than this ball is probably gone... So see if you can put a little allen kit in it. Come back and tell us if you can acces to that allen screw and I will tell you how to enrich the mixture a bit
So I think that you did all what you could too test the car
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The verdict is that the mixture seems to be too lean at idle, but when increasing rpm the mixture enrich itselve (and that is normal) and brings a correct Air/fuel mixture.
YOure engine is having the good mixture except at idle. You should enrich abit the mixture at idle, to do soo there is a sort of alen screw that you can turn to enrich a bit the mixture. Do you see the cylindrical tower between the Fuel distributor and the AFM? Its about 1in high I think. Look at it carfully and see if you can put an allen key in it. Normally this "tower" is blocked by a little metal ball... If it had already been modified than this ball is probably gone... So see if you can put a little allen kit in it. Come back and tell us if you can acces to that allen screw and I will tell you how to enrich the mixture a bit
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#31
^
Perfect, so with an allen kit you will be able to adjust the Mixture. You have to turn just a little the key and pushing youre key in the hole at the same time. If you dont push on the key will turning it wont adjust anything. Turn the key like 1/10 of a turn at a time. I dont remember witch side to enrich the mixture.... Counterclock or clock side turning, I dont remember...
BUT, befor doing this, look if the throttle linkage is touching to the little microswitch near the spring of the throtlte inkage. At idle it shouldnt touch that switch, but almost.
Also, be sure that the AirFlow meter plate Zero position is set correctly.
ERRATUM: I think I did an error with the X11 thing, its not between the battery ground and the pin 3 but more between the pin2 and pin3 of the x11... You can take again the measure if you whant.
Perfect, so with an allen kit you will be able to adjust the Mixture. You have to turn just a little the key and pushing youre key in the hole at the same time. If you dont push on the key will turning it wont adjust anything. Turn the key like 1/10 of a turn at a time. I dont remember witch side to enrich the mixture.... Counterclock or clock side turning, I dont remember...
BUT, befor doing this, look if the throttle linkage is touching to the little microswitch near the spring of the throtlte inkage. At idle it shouldnt touch that switch, but almost.
Also, be sure that the AirFlow meter plate Zero position is set correctly.
ERRATUM: I think I did an error with the X11 thing, its not between the battery ground and the pin 3 but more between the pin2 and pin3 of the x11... You can take again the measure if you whant.
#33
Originally Posted by johanson
Before I do anyting do Ihave to look a timing now is not at death center is 20degres just wondering?![slap](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/slap.gif)
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The ignition timming is about at 20deg on idle yes
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#34
mix
I check microswitch and is near throtle and I just clock wise on the tower .How do I know if is fine,taken the car for a test?:
On pin2 and 3 do I have to put negative in 2 and 3 in positive(voltimeter)X boxI will like to run this test againg thanks
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#35
For the Pin2 and 3, it doesnt matter if its the positif or negatif. If you inverse them you will see a negative sign on the multimeter, just ignore the sign ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
So is the microswitch touched when on idle? You have to be sure that the microswitch isnt switched (that the trottle isnt pushing on it). Where the 02 signal taken under does circonstance?
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So is the microswitch touched when on idle? You have to be sure that the microswitch isnt switched (that the trottle isnt pushing on it). Where the 02 signal taken under does circonstance?
#36
OK, so you are runing Lean (the 0.9V at the O2)
To adjust the mixture with the cylinder allen screw beside the Fuel Distributor:
-You will have to richen a bit the mixture, to do so UNPLUG THE EHA, start the car and wait like 2 minutes until the engine is starting to be hot. Plug youre multimeter so you can read the O2 signal reading like previously.
Take the O2 signal, if it is over 0.5V than you have to turn CLOCKWISE (and pushing down youre allen key in the cylinderbolt) the allen bold for 1/16 of a turn ONLY. Pop a bit the fuel pedal to reset the mixture and wait 5 sec and check the mixture again. If its again over the 0.5V give an other 1/16 of a turn to the screw and pop again and wait 5s. Do this until you have the 0.5V at the O2 signal! Then replug the EHA and see if the mixture is still around 0.5V (it should, except if you have an ECU problem or ECU input signal problem)
Be sure the the microswitch ISNT activated!
Give us news!
To adjust the mixture with the cylinder allen screw beside the Fuel Distributor:
-You will have to richen a bit the mixture, to do so UNPLUG THE EHA, start the car and wait like 2 minutes until the engine is starting to be hot. Plug youre multimeter so you can read the O2 signal reading like previously.
Take the O2 signal, if it is over 0.5V than you have to turn CLOCKWISE (and pushing down youre allen key in the cylinderbolt) the allen bold for 1/16 of a turn ONLY. Pop a bit the fuel pedal to reset the mixture and wait 5 sec and check the mixture again. If its again over the 0.5V give an other 1/16 of a turn to the screw and pop again and wait 5s. Do this until you have the 0.5V at the O2 signal! Then replug the EHA and see if the mixture is still around 0.5V (it should, except if you have an ECU problem or ECU input signal problem)
Be sure the the microswitch ISNT activated!
Give us news!
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#37
Idle
Hi,hope you doing good.Idisconect EHA and I ajust mix to .380v to .506.(fluctuate) but went I plug the EHA is back to .860 and .885.
I just mix to .382v and .582v(fluctuate) but EHA was plug on is that OK What do I have to do.Any way in pin#2 and#3 reads 2.7v 2.9vand 3.1v(fluctuates)
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#38
There is defenitivly a problem with the EHA correction... Normaly you should have 0.5V without EHA and by plugging the EHA the mixture should stay around 0.5 since the EHA is there to stabilize the mixture...
If you where able to obtain the 0.5V with the EHA its probably that even if the EHA is traying to get a lean mixture of 0.8V that you putted the mixture so rich that you where at the limit of the EHA so he isnt able to lean more the mixture...
You should put the mixture at 0.5V without the EHA and found what is the probleme with the EHA.
There is 2 possibilities:
- or the EHA is bad
- or the ECU is sending a bad voltage to the EHA so an input is meaby bad.
To know if youre EHA is bad you will have to read the signal that goes to the EHA to see if what the ECU is telling to the EHA. If the ECU isnt telling nothing to the EHA or telling him to kip the mixture (When you are at the 0.5V) and even with that the EHA leans to 0.8V the mixture than this would mean that the EHA is bad.
I think you should put back the mixture at 0.5V without EHA and take a look at the signal that goes to the EHA to see if its the EHA or the ECU the problem...
BTW, seing the 0.3V at the pin3-2 is now normal. There isnt any error code than. The pin voltage is telling you that you have a lean mixture thats all. Dont worry about that signal no more. THere isnt any error code and that is the only thing important
If you where able to obtain the 0.5V with the EHA its probably that even if the EHA is traying to get a lean mixture of 0.8V that you putted the mixture so rich that you where at the limit of the EHA so he isnt able to lean more the mixture...
You should put the mixture at 0.5V without the EHA and found what is the probleme with the EHA.
There is 2 possibilities:
- or the EHA is bad
- or the ECU is sending a bad voltage to the EHA so an input is meaby bad.
To know if youre EHA is bad you will have to read the signal that goes to the EHA to see if what the ECU is telling to the EHA. If the ECU isnt telling nothing to the EHA or telling him to kip the mixture (When you are at the 0.5V) and even with that the EHA leans to 0.8V the mixture than this would mean that the EHA is bad.
I think you should put back the mixture at 0.5V without EHA and take a look at the signal that goes to the EHA to see if its the EHA or the ECU the problem...
BTW, seing the 0.3V at the pin3-2 is now normal. There isnt any error code than. The pin voltage is telling you that you have a lean mixture thats all. Dont worry about that signal no more. THere isnt any error code and that is the only thing important
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Last edited by canada011; 05-30-2006 at 06:35 PM.
#39
Finaly
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#40
When you say "plug" and "unplug" are you talking about the EHA? or the idle valve?
I guess you are talking about the EHA hey? If yes than this is a good news!!
If the O2 signal fluctuate around 0.5V with and also without the EHA pluged than you can tell yourselve that the mixture is perfect at idle!
Can you check again to see until witch RPM this 0.5V is readed?
Just increase slowly the RPM and see at witch rpm the O2 signal is toping off (like you already tested previously)
If everything is good for the air fuel mixture, than youre emission problem should be eliminated! If not than its more a ignition or internal engine problem... Meaby youre catalytic converter too.
-Is youre catalytic converter old or bad?
-Is youre ignition timming good?
-Did you already did a compression test on the engine?
Is youre engine power back?? If yes than if I where you, I would just take a look at the catalytic converter and if this seems good I would go do the emission test again...
I guess you are talking about the EHA hey? If yes than this is a good news!!
If the O2 signal fluctuate around 0.5V with and also without the EHA pluged than you can tell yourselve that the mixture is perfect at idle!
Can you check again to see until witch RPM this 0.5V is readed?
Just increase slowly the RPM and see at witch rpm the O2 signal is toping off (like you already tested previously)
If everything is good for the air fuel mixture, than youre emission problem should be eliminated! If not than its more a ignition or internal engine problem... Meaby youre catalytic converter too.
-Is youre catalytic converter old or bad?
-Is youre ignition timming good?
-Did you already did a compression test on the engine?
Is youre engine power back?? If yes than if I where you, I would just take a look at the catalytic converter and if this seems good I would go do the emission test again...
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