P0300 + P2043 + P2044 = $1,900 ??? Help
01-10-2006, 07:29 PM
#26
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Fuel pressure regulator?
Found this on a thread in the W202 forum......
"I only wish I had gone straight to replacing the fuel pressure regulator first as it was the cause of the infamous cylinder misfire condition. Somehow the car's computer realizes it isn't getting enough fuel in a given cylinder and the computer shuts off that cylinder. The end result is it drives like a 5 cylinder car until you shut off the ignition and restart it. At idle, it surged and dropped rpms a lot."
"I only wish I had gone straight to replacing the fuel pressure regulator first as it was the cause of the infamous cylinder misfire condition. Somehow the car's computer realizes it isn't getting enough fuel in a given cylinder and the computer shuts off that cylinder. The end result is it drives like a 5 cylinder car until you shut off the ignition and restart it. At idle, it surged and dropped rpms a lot."
01-10-2006, 11:25 PM
#27
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'06 CLS55 P030
Originally Posted by adf111
It has been about a month since my last posting. So here's what I've done so far:
Replaced plugs & coil on Cyl 1 - Probelm persists; no error codes
A week later replaced all the rest 10 plugs - Problem still persists and no errors
The mechanic pures in a bottle of Chevron's injectors cleaner (goes into the gas tank) and asks me to drive the car till tank is empty, fill it again to a 1/2 and add another bottle, which I did. The idle/slow drive vibration is still there w/o errors.
Yesterday I pressed the pedal slightly, accelerating to pass another car on the road (those w/ the 320 engine know what I'm talking abut) and CABOOM, Check Engine light turned ON and the car started to sound like a tractor. Got off the fwy, turned the engine off, started it again, and it was working smoothly, w/ the idle/slow speed vibration only. The Check Engine light was still on.
Went to the mechanic, and this time it showed Random Misfire + Misfire on cyl's 1, 4 and 5. He cleared the errors and I'm scheduled to leave the car there for a couple of days, he just needs to reserve a loaner car for me.
Driving home at night it happend again; driving ~65mph, I accelerated to ~75 and anothe CABOOM, Check Engine light turned on and a bizarre sound came from the engine. Got of the fwy with little speed I had, and when parked in idle, the whole car was vibrating VERY strongly, as if one or more cylinders weren't working at all.
Amazingly, turned the iginition OFF and then ON again and everything was working normaly (well, except that annying initial light vibration @ idle/slow speed.
Oh, and it seems troubles are falling all together, as just when I start driving the breaks warning come on..... so now I'll also need to replace the breaks?
It seems to me the mechanic is clueless.
I'd hate to pay the stealership visit.
Pleeeeeeease....Any idea? Help? Advise?
Thanks.
Replaced plugs & coil on Cyl 1 - Probelm persists; no error codes
A week later replaced all the rest 10 plugs - Problem still persists and no errors
The mechanic pures in a bottle of Chevron's injectors cleaner (goes into the gas tank) and asks me to drive the car till tank is empty, fill it again to a 1/2 and add another bottle, which I did. The idle/slow drive vibration is still there w/o errors.
Yesterday I pressed the pedal slightly, accelerating to pass another car on the road (those w/ the 320 engine know what I'm talking abut) and CABOOM, Check Engine light turned ON and the car started to sound like a tractor. Got off the fwy, turned the engine off, started it again, and it was working smoothly, w/ the idle/slow speed vibration only. The Check Engine light was still on.
Went to the mechanic, and this time it showed Random Misfire + Misfire on cyl's 1, 4 and 5. He cleared the errors and I'm scheduled to leave the car there for a couple of days, he just needs to reserve a loaner car for me.
Driving home at night it happend again; driving ~65mph, I accelerated to ~75 and anothe CABOOM, Check Engine light turned on and a bizarre sound came from the engine. Got of the fwy with little speed I had, and when parked in idle, the whole car was vibrating VERY strongly, as if one or more cylinders weren't working at all.
Amazingly, turned the iginition OFF and then ON again and everything was working normaly (well, except that annying initial light vibration @ idle/slow speed.
Oh, and it seems troubles are falling all together, as just when I start driving the breaks warning come on..... so now I'll also need to replace the breaks?
It seems to me the mechanic is clueless.
I'd hate to pay the stealership visit.
Pleeeeeeease....Any idea? Help? Advise?
Thanks.
01-10-2006, 11:51 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by 516mbtek
If you took your problem car to the "stealership", as you so cleverly put it, in the first place you might be driving your around in your ride....insted of talking about it to other potentially clueless persons....
"Might" is the correct term. But he wouldn't have saved nearly the same amount of money getting nowhere. 
01-11-2006, 12:03 AM
#29
Super Member
Did the kaboom sound like a back fire?? If so, again sounds like a sticking, bent or burnt valve. The valve leak will stay open, just a little, and let the combustion leak into back into the intake.... and kaboom! Intake backfire..
Listen to 516 mbtek, take it to the dealer. I dont see a fuel regulator causing a backfire, if it was a backfire what it was.
Listen to 516 mbtek, take it to the dealer. I dont see a fuel regulator causing a backfire, if it was a backfire what it was.
01-11-2006, 11:48 AM
#30
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Thread Starter
NO BACKFIRE!
I used the "Kaboom" just to add a spice to the feeling I had; the CEL came on with some kind of a stoll in speed (I was driving 65-70mph) and then the noise of a heavy machine from the engine.
Thanks for the replies so far.
You also might be right about going to the stealership; it's still not too late and I am amusing myself with the idea; however, if there a chance to save several hundereds or more bucks, I'd still give it a chance with the independent, which has been an MB mechanic for about 30 years!
It's a rather unusual problem and the forum is THE place to search for a solution, both by other people's experience and some member mechanics which contribute theirs.
I have learnt that MBWORLD is one of the more serious sites/forums out there; If anyone wants/desires to own an MB with a limited size wallet, THIS IS where that person should inquire about everything. .... and isn't it the purpose of a forum?!
I will explore the fuel regulator avenue. If that means starting from the end of the process instead of taking the engine apart, then this should be it.
Anyone knows if it's an expansive part to replace (part & labor)?
I used the "Kaboom" just to add a spice to the feeling I had; the CEL came on with some kind of a stoll in speed (I was driving 65-70mph) and then the noise of a heavy machine from the engine.
Thanks for the replies so far.
You also might be right about going to the stealership; it's still not too late and I am amusing myself with the idea; however, if there a chance to save several hundereds or more bucks, I'd still give it a chance with the independent, which has been an MB mechanic for about 30 years!
It's a rather unusual problem and the forum is THE place to search for a solution, both by other people's experience and some member mechanics which contribute theirs.
I have learnt that MBWORLD is one of the more serious sites/forums out there; If anyone wants/desires to own an MB with a limited size wallet, THIS IS where that person should inquire about everything. .... and isn't it the purpose of a forum?!
I will explore the fuel regulator avenue. If that means starting from the end of the process instead of taking the engine apart, then this should be it.
Anyone knows if it's an expansive part to replace (part & labor)?
01-11-2006, 03:42 PM
#31
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209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
Sounds like the MAS is going..Seen several with rough idle and Check engine lite do this ..no stored codes.. but will reset when key is cycled
If The Shop has a Star Diag or even the OLD HHT Hand Held Tester One can go into Values and Inspect the Mas air sensor and coil packs..To Determine what is BAD! No Shot Gun Replacement! You Need a Better Tech!...
The Three Cs Cause Cure Correction
If The Shop has a Star Diag or even the OLD HHT Hand Held Tester One can go into Values and Inspect the Mas air sensor and coil packs..To Determine what is BAD! No Shot Gun Replacement! You Need a Better Tech!...
The Three Cs Cause Cure Correction
01-14-2006, 10:23 AM
#32
Member
Thread Starter
No Fuel Pressure Regulator?
I went yesterday to the dealership to inquire about the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
2 people at the service dept. claimed there's no such part for the 01 E320 (W210).
Is it possible?
Anyone know the part #?
Thanks.
2 people at the service dept. claimed there's no such part for the 01 E320 (W210).
Is it possible?
Anyone know the part #?
Thanks.
01-24-2006, 10:23 PM
#33
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'06 CLS55 P030
Originally Posted by mleskovar
"Might" is the correct term. But he wouldn't have saved nearly the same amount of money getting nowhere. 
01-24-2006, 10:27 PM
#34
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'06 CLS55 P030
Originally Posted by adf111
I went yesterday to the dealership to inquire about the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
2 people at the service dept. claimed there's no such part for the 01 E320 (W210).
Is it possible?
Anyone know the part #?
Thanks.
2 people at the service dept. claimed there's no such part for the 01 E320 (W210).
Is it possible?
Anyone know the part #?
Thanks.
01-26-2006, 06:07 PM
#35
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2016 E350 4M
Had similar problem
After the dealer replaced all plugs and wires and and..... I took it to my indie because he across the street from the office and he fixed a coil connection for #5 for 65$ bucks and has run like a champ ever since.
I had codes for 3 cyl misfires and random misfires.
I had codes for 3 cyl misfires and random misfires.
02-02-2006, 07:51 AM
#36
Member
Thread Starter
What is going on????
OK, just got a band new OEM MAF ($100 on eBay) and.... what the he...? When I installed the new one, the whole car started shaking in idle and when increasing the revs, at about 4000 RPM, there's a constant drop-increase-drop-increase....
Put back the old MAF and it's much better!
I've owned cars for many years; never have I encountered such a phenomana.
Could the new MAF be defective?
Does it signify of other thing got bad?
Any ideas?
Put back the old MAF and it's much better!
I've owned cars for many years; never have I encountered such a phenomana.
Could the new MAF be defective?
Does it signify of other thing got bad?
Any ideas?
02-02-2006, 04:46 PM
#37
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by adf111
OK, just got a band new OEM MAF ($100 on eBay) and.... what the he...? When I installed the new one, the whole car started shaking in idle and when increasing the revs, at about 4000 RPM, there's a constant drop-increase-drop-increase....
Put back the old MAF and it's much better! Could the new MAF be defective?
:
Put back the old MAF and it's much better! Could the new MAF be defective?
:
02-02-2006, 08:56 PM
#38
Super Member
They look new when you take them off, probably someone replaced theirs and put the old one in the box and screwed you. That sucks, your parts swapping is going to cost you way too much. Plus 2 months of headache.
Go to the dealer already..
Go to the dealer already..
03-13-2006, 04:16 AM
#39
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Any More??
Hello All,
This is my first post, but I have been a frequent visitor to the knowledge base here at this forum with numerous past issues with my MB. Has any members here resolved their issue with the "High RPM Engine Power Loss" phenomena. My 1998 C230 dark smoke sport package has recently this month aqcuired this MB syndrome. I have pulled codes 300, 302 for the misfire damage TWC in cylinder 2. From what I gather the research in the threads concerning this particular ailment is that it is the plugs, wires, coilpacks, vacuum tubes, MAS, blocked exhaust cat damage, or the fuel pressure regulator, as several members have found fixes with each or several of the listed. Any reply follow ups back would be most appreciated from yours truly in VA Beach. FWIW my C230 has 113,000, new plugs at 100K, Electronic Contact Cleanered the MAS and has the exact same symptoms of the heavy initial throttle input (to pass or from stop at light), then the CEL, the rough idle and misfire power loss, reset the ignition, it's fine again. It would be nice to not to have to be so ginger with the throttle and have that passing power back, especially in rush hour!!!
This is my first post, but I have been a frequent visitor to the knowledge base here at this forum with numerous past issues with my MB. Has any members here resolved their issue with the "High RPM Engine Power Loss" phenomena. My 1998 C230 dark smoke sport package has recently this month aqcuired this MB syndrome. I have pulled codes 300, 302 for the misfire damage TWC in cylinder 2. From what I gather the research in the threads concerning this particular ailment is that it is the plugs, wires, coilpacks, vacuum tubes, MAS, blocked exhaust cat damage, or the fuel pressure regulator, as several members have found fixes with each or several of the listed. Any reply follow ups back would be most appreciated from yours truly in VA Beach. FWIW my C230 has 113,000, new plugs at 100K, Electronic Contact Cleanered the MAS and has the exact same symptoms of the heavy initial throttle input (to pass or from stop at light), then the CEL, the rough idle and misfire power loss, reset the ignition, it's fine again. It would be nice to not to have to be so ginger with the throttle and have that passing power back, especially in rush hour!!!
03-20-2006, 12:51 AM
#40
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2011 C 300 4-Matic
Ok, I am not sure if you are still having problems or not but I just read this thread so I will give you my input. I didnt read everything that was posted but it looks to me like you didnt replace the plug wires on the affected cylinder. This would have been the first place I would have gone if it was brought to me. The wires are the cause of misfires 85% of the time on 112 and 113 engines. If you still havent replaced the wires, you should do it at least on that cylinder for now.
Dont replace all the coil packs like that guy told you. He is just guessing. I have probably only replaced 4 coil packs since I have worked for MB and have replaced more plugs and wires than I could begin to count. I certainly have never heard of them all being faulty. If that was the case, the car wouldnt start. The ECU shuts down the affected cylinder to protect the catalytic converters so that would mean it would shut down all the cylinders if all the coil packs were bad. Also I have no idea where he is getting the prices he gave you. Thats almost $1000 worth of labor. The job doesnt take anywhere near enough time to warrant $1000 of labor.
Lastly if you put a brand new air mass sensor and it ran like crap it might be because it has adapted to the old air mass sensor so you need to reset the adaptation when you install a new one. Only way I know to do it is using an SDS.
Hope this helps.
Dont replace all the coil packs like that guy told you. He is just guessing. I have probably only replaced 4 coil packs since I have worked for MB and have replaced more plugs and wires than I could begin to count. I certainly have never heard of them all being faulty. If that was the case, the car wouldnt start. The ECU shuts down the affected cylinder to protect the catalytic converters so that would mean it would shut down all the cylinders if all the coil packs were bad. Also I have no idea where he is getting the prices he gave you. Thats almost $1000 worth of labor. The job doesnt take anywhere near enough time to warrant $1000 of labor.
Lastly if you put a brand new air mass sensor and it ran like crap it might be because it has adapted to the old air mass sensor so you need to reset the adaptation when you install a new one. Only way I know to do it is using an SDS.
Hope this helps.
03-24-2006, 12:57 PM
#42
MBWorld Fanatic!
[QUOTE=MBtech1]Lastly if you put a brand new air mass sensor and it ran like crap it might be because it has adapted to the old air mass sensor so you need to reset the adaptation when you install a new one. Only way I know to do it is using an SDS. QUOTE]
Won't it adapt itself over time...after so many starts and time running? If not, maybe this is why so many people think they got a bad MAS off of ebay?
Won't it adapt itself over time...after so many starts and time running? If not, maybe this is why so many people think they got a bad MAS off of ebay?
03-24-2006, 11:50 PM
#43
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2011 C 300 4-Matic
It will adapt over time but I am not sure how long. I have seen this problem in person before. A couple times when I have been training someone at work and they put an air mass sensor on the car and started it without reseting the adaptation, it caused it to run worse. Then after I told them to reset the adaptation, it ran great. Sometimes the mixture adaptation gets way out from a faulty mas and then it can actually run worse with a new one unless you give it a while to adjust or reset it manually.
[QUOTE=mleskovar]
[QUOTE=mleskovar]
Originally Posted by MBtech1
Lastly if you put a brand new air mass sensor and it ran like crap it might be because it has adapted to the old air mass sensor so you need to reset the adaptation when you install a new one. Only way I know to do it is using an SDS. QUOTE]
Won't it adapt itself over time...after so many starts and time running? If not, maybe this is why so many people think they got a bad MAS off of ebay?
Won't it adapt itself over time...after so many starts and time running? If not, maybe this is why so many people think they got a bad MAS off of ebay?
05-09-2006, 10:38 AM
#45
Member
Thread Starter
W210 - Got It! Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MBtech1, benz-tech and [MB]CRS, you were ABSOLUTELY right!
I went to an indei (Pete's Autohaus, Torrance, CA) who ran the MB diag and ruled out engine mounts, MAF, coils etc. He determined it's just 2 cylinders (#4 & 5) bad wires. He suggested replacing all, which I did, and for $400 I was out the door with a "brand new" car. No vibration, no jumping car on stops, nothing.
So it all ended up with being just THE WIRES.
MBtech1 – VERY WELL DIAGNOSED!
I solute you!
I went to an indei (Pete's Autohaus, Torrance, CA) who ran the MB diag and ruled out engine mounts, MAF, coils etc. He determined it's just 2 cylinders (#4 & 5) bad wires. He suggested replacing all, which I did, and for $400 I was out the door with a "brand new" car. No vibration, no jumping car on stops, nothing.
So it all ended up with being just THE WIRES.
MBtech1 – VERY WELL DIAGNOSED!
I solute you!
05-09-2006, 12:17 PM
#46
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Heh glad to hear your good fortune. I just received my brand new MAF and put her in to no avail. At least I have a go to whenever she MAF decide to bail on me.
Still conking (missfiring 301/302) whenever I decelerate and then have to reapply throttle.
Next on my list was the spark plug wires also, so hopefully that'll be the trick. I'll replace the whole set just to be sure I can rule out the wires. Thanks for your update.
So for me it's went this route: new plugs, fuel treatment, non-residue contact cleanered maf, new vacuum hosing, new maf, next is ignition wires, then coils if not wires. Ignition wires regardless!!..Fingers crossed
Still conking (missfiring 301/302) whenever I decelerate and then have to reapply throttle.
Next on my list was the spark plug wires also, so hopefully that'll be the trick. I'll replace the whole set just to be sure I can rule out the wires. Thanks for your update.
So for me it's went this route: new plugs, fuel treatment, non-residue contact cleanered maf, new vacuum hosing, new maf, next is ignition wires, then coils if not wires. Ignition wires regardless!!..Fingers crossed
Last edited by machamachacho43; 05-09-2006 at 04:15 PM.
05-09-2006, 04:19 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by MBtech1
.. it ran like crap it might be because it has adapted to the old air mass sensor so you need to reset the adaptation when you install a new one. Only way I know to do it is using an SDS.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
05-26-2006, 06:13 PM
#48
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did the new ignition wires...
just changed out my sparkplug wires from racepages.com $100. Reset the computer ala touching the +/- wires at the battery for 20 secs...
Still acting up...same story. Well $225 into it and lastly I will take to the benz shop to have them reinstall the "values" and window settings lost when I replaced the MAF and disconnected the battery and we'll see what happens. Cheers!!
Have a good/safe Memorial weekend all!!
Still acting up...same story. Well $225 into it and lastly I will take to the benz shop to have them reinstall the "values" and window settings lost when I replaced the MAF and disconnected the battery and we'll see what happens. Cheers!!
Have a good/safe Memorial weekend all!!
