Crank Position Sensor
Geo.




Geo.




The car is at the dealer to get hooked up to their diagnostic machine and hopefully to resolve the problem by the end of today. Thank you all for your help. I will let you know what happens.




Rod
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). Many part replacements are harder the first time not knowing the proper tool or combination of tools and approach. 15 minute job.
. I am just glad I was able to do it and they didn't. Learned a lot, hope I don't have to do it any time soon. Thanks forum.
Last edited by ragu; Sep 1, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
Do you recall what size socket was required to remove the CPS? By any chance do you know if it also fits the bolt for the cam position sensor (on the front of th engine)? I was going to use this as a check before I start my engine acrobatics... It seems I have a bad crankshaft position sensor too (at least that's the error code I get from the scanner).
Thanks so much (hope you are still reading).
Eric
Makes > 2001 Mercedes > C240 > sensor > Crankshaft Position Sensor
Part Number Brand / Description / Restrictions List Core Your Price Qty Select
0261210170
Bosch
Crankshaft Position Sensor; Rear; EZL Sender at Rear of Engine
Please note, this sensor has one clip-on lock notch for harness connection. 1 per car. Limited availability. $40.10
I checked Autohaus and you are right, best price around by $12... Best price I could find was $62... Locally it's $86.
I added a set of wiper blades (~$10) to bring my order over $50, so the shipping was free (would have been around $8, so for $2 more, I have a new set of blades.
Off to buy the star socket I need now. I figure it will end being a set from Harbor Freight.
Thanks for the tip.
Eric
Pictures in this thread/post:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...ml#post3519871
Although I knew what the part looked like, I couldn’t find it on the engine. This link cleared that up ( found on another thread): http://pingelblog.blogspot.com/2008/06/c43-amg-crankshaft-position-sensor.html Location is rear of engine, driver side by the firewall. It’s at about a 45 degree angle. I can’t see any other way of replacing this thing without getting your hand down there to remove the wire and to hold the socket steady to find the bolt by touch and then to ensure it catches the bolt. It is a tight fit. I used grease instead of dishwashing soap on my hand and it helped a great deal. For me, removing the wire first, by squeezing the clip worked well. More room to maneuver. Used a ¼” E8 female torx socket to remove the bolt. I used a socket wrench because it gave me more torque to break the screw, which was in there pretty tight. Once the screw was out, the part came out easily and the rest was smooth sailing. I noticed the bolt had some blue residue on the thread, so I put a drop of Proloc removable thread lock on it before reinstalling it.
Btw, the car stalled out in a parking lot whil my wife was driving. Couldn’t get it to re start. The engine would turn but not start. She called AAA. I show up and waited with her. After a while, I tried it again and it fired up. Cancelled the tow and drove home. Check engine light is on. Bought a code tester for about $35.00 and got the code po335 with further text that it was the cps circuit malfunction. The rest is history. Check engine light is gone. Part cost about 50 bucks at Autozone. Thanks again to all the contributors as all the different bits of info helped greatly. Replaced an alternator a couple of years ago with this site’s help as well.




