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Crank Position Sensor

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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 06:14 PM
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Crank Position Sensor

Where is the Crank Position Sensor located and has anyone replaced it themselves? My car is a 2001 C240.
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 06:48 PM
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1995 c220 auto
Haven't replaced one on your engine type , but look here for position,usually very awkward to access.http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp...SGR=075&SGN=04
Geo.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by shandy2550
Haven't replaced one on your engine type , but look here for position,usually very awkward to access.http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp...SGR=075&SGN=04
Geo.
Thank you for the information. Have you heard of MB replacing this under the Clean Air Act as an emmissions control device up to 80k miles? Another member suggested that on the W203 forum and I haven't heard of it before.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 11:08 AM
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Well, on my way to the dealer this morning my car died on me twice. I was able to get it started 20 minutes after each stall, but man it was a problem! The car is at the dealer to get hooked up to their diagnostic machine and hopefully to resolve the problem by the end of today. Thank you all for your help. I will let you know what happens.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 10:49 AM
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It's amazing what effect a little sensor like the crank position sensor has on our cars. Mine is a 2001 C240 and the sensor is actually located in the front of the engine, I had the SA show it to me. After they hooked it up to diagnostic machine they determined that the only problem was the CPS. I thought it was the alternator as well because of how it stalled out on me twice this morning-I was wrong. Apparently it is a common problem and towards the end of the sensor's life it will stop working if it becomes hot under normal temperatures which is after the car has been on for at least 30 minutes. The sensor was only $105 and the dealer was able to fix the problem today! The car acts like it did on the first day that I bought it! Thanks for everyone's help on this forum
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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You sure it wasn't the camshaft position sensor ,which is at the front of your engine. Anyway glad it's fixed now.
Geo.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 09:47 AM
  #7  
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2011 E350 Bluetec, 1996 S320 & 2006 E320 CDI Sold to my son & 2017 GMC 2500 Diesel Pick up
Shandy, would this sensor be in about the same place on a '96 s320. Sounds just like the problems I've been haveing.
Rod

Drive on
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 06:31 PM
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From: south texas
2001 c240
I know this is an old thread, but I just replaced my sensor in 01 c240. It was difficult to get to. I have skinny hands and with some dish soap, I was able to squeeze my hand between the firewall and the rear cylinder. The bolt that is holding the sensor is a star head, so you will need star sockets. It took some time to hit the bolt, because of the limited space. I was finallly able to get it off and carefully remove. I am glad I didn't drop the bolt when removing. You really need to be careful. When installing the new one, the sensor is round so you have to move it to line up the hole for the bolt. This took me a little time because I was straining the tips of my fingers to position it. Just not a lot of room to work. So far so good, the car runs fine, no more stalling at the light. I bought the part from NAPA for $80. Had to get the star sockets from Harbor Freight for $8. It can be done, but like I said, small hands saved me. I wonder how the MB mechs do it? Good luck to anyone trying.
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 07:12 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by ragu
.... I wonder how the MB mechs do it...
Ratchet, long extension, u joint coupler, short extension, star socket, magnetic pick up stick (or so I read ). Many part replacements are harder the first time not knowing the proper tool or combination of tools and approach. 15 minute job.
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 08:04 PM
  #10  
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From: south texas
2001 c240
Cool

I guess the MB techs probably would not use the dish soap method. I am just glad I was able to do it and they didn't. Learned a lot, hope I don't have to do it any time soon. Thanks forum.

Last edited by ragu; Sep 1, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 04:11 AM
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190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
The V6 and V8's when installed in a W203 or W209 are very difficult due to the engine being mounted a bit further back than other chassis's. If you remove the air intake pipe from the throttle body then you can reach from the center of the engine rather than the side which gives a bit more space. Still difficult though if you haven't done one before. This is the only way to do it with the M272 and M273 in some chassis's now.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 10:44 PM
  #12  
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2001 C240
Originally Posted by ragu
I know this is an old thread, but I just replaced my sensor in 01 c240. It was difficult to get to. I have skinny hands and with some dish soap, I was able to squeeze my hand between the firewall and the rear cylinder. The bolt that is holding the sensor is a star head, so you will need star sockets. It took some time to hit the bolt, because of the limited space. I was finallly able to get it off and carefully remove. I am glad I didn't drop the bolt when removing. You really need to be careful. When installing the new one, the sensor is round so you have to move it to line up the hole for the bolt. This took me a little time because I was straining the tips of my fingers to position it. Just not a lot of room to work. So far so good, the car runs fine, no more stalling at the light. I bought the part from NAPA for $80. Had to get the star sockets from Harbor Freight for $8. It can be done, but like I said, small hands saved me. I wonder how the MB mechs do it? Good luck to anyone trying.
ragu:

Do you recall what size socket was required to remove the CPS? By any chance do you know if it also fits the bolt for the cam position sensor (on the front of th engine)? I was going to use this as a check before I start my engine acrobatics... It seems I have a bad crankshaft position sensor too (at least that's the error code I get from the scanner).

Thanks so much (hope you are still reading).

Eric
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Old May 7, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #13  
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From: Mesa, AZ
2011 E350 Bluetec, 1996 S320 & 2006 E320 CDI Sold to my son & 2017 GMC 2500 Diesel Pick up
Eric -go to AutohausAZ for your parts if you haven't bought it yet. much better prices. Half of what he said he spent. I buy all my parts there, they ship very fast.

Makes > 2001 Mercedes > C240 > sensor > Crankshaft Position Sensor

Part Number Brand / Description / Restrictions List Core Your Price Qty Select

0261210170
Bosch
Crankshaft Position Sensor; Rear; EZL Sender at Rear of Engine
Please note, this sensor has one clip-on lock notch for harness connection. 1 per car. Limited availability. $40.10
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Old May 7, 2009 | 01:06 PM
  #14  
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2001 C240
Thanks Rod.

I checked Autohaus and you are right, best price around by $12... Best price I could find was $62... Locally it's $86.

I added a set of wiper blades (~$10) to bring my order over $50, so the shipping was free (would have been around $8, so for $2 more, I have a new set of blades.

Off to buy the star socket I need now. I figure it will end being a set from Harbor Freight.

Thanks for the tip.

Eric
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Old May 12, 2009 | 08:25 PM
  #15  
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2001 C240
New part installed. Running like a top. BTW, the socket size is E8.

Pictures in this thread/post:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...ml#post3519871
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 11:29 PM
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2001 C240
I don’t see any recent posts but the thread is still open. Maybe there’s a new thread, but I just replaced the cps on my C240 year 2001 and am happy as a pig in s**t. I wouldn’t have been able to do it without this site.

Although I knew what the part looked like, I couldn’t find it on the engine. This link cleared that up ( found on another thread): http://pingelblog.blogspot.com/2008/06/c43-amg-crankshaft-position-sensor.html Location is rear of engine, driver side by the firewall. It’s at about a 45 degree angle. I can’t see any other way of replacing this thing without getting your hand down there to remove the wire and to hold the socket steady to find the bolt by touch and then to ensure it catches the bolt. It is a tight fit. I used grease instead of dishwashing soap on my hand and it helped a great deal. For me, removing the wire first, by squeezing the clip worked well. More room to maneuver. Used a ¼” E8 female torx socket to remove the bolt. I used a socket wrench because it gave me more torque to break the screw, which was in there pretty tight. Once the screw was out, the part came out easily and the rest was smooth sailing. I noticed the bolt had some blue residue on the thread, so I put a drop of Proloc removable thread lock on it before reinstalling it.

Btw, the car stalled out in a parking lot whil my wife was driving. Couldn’t get it to re start. The engine would turn but not start. She called AAA. I show up and waited with her. After a while, I tried it again and it fired up. Cancelled the tow and drove home. Check engine light is on. Bought a code tester for about $35.00 and got the code po335 with further text that it was the cps circuit malfunction. The rest is history. Check engine light is gone. Part cost about 50 bucks at Autozone. Thanks again to all the contributors as all the different bits of info helped greatly. Replaced an alternator a couple of years ago with this site’s help as well.
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