crank position sensor torx driver size?
#1
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sounds like airplane
crank position sensor torx driver size?
anybody know?
my car definitely has a torx head "male" bolt holding it in- I don't have a tool and neither do any of the easy to get to local places.
I may have to order online- this is dumb!
-Drew
or- what did you make work?
it looks like this guys-
http://pingelblog.blogspot.com/2008/...on-sensor.html
my car definitely has a torx head "male" bolt holding it in- I don't have a tool and neither do any of the easy to get to local places.
I may have to order online- this is dumb!
-Drew
or- what did you make work?
it looks like this guys-
http://pingelblog.blogspot.com/2008/...on-sensor.html
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Per abov
E8 and if you use an allen wrench as a drive in the E8 socket you can get your hand down there.
Make sure you have the hood release tab pushed if your car has one,so that the hood is in the all the way up.Lay a fender guard or blanket on the fender and dive in
another good reference in in the resource section diy articles on www.mercedesshop.com
m112 m113 cps r/r.
I hope you got the new one from autohausaz.com,they are down into the low $50's now delivered free
I think the market has bottomed
p.s. don't use loctite on the threads,you don't need it.
if you have one near you
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36562
Harbor Freight USA
725 45TH AVE NE
MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55421 call first to make sure it is in stock at the brick and mortar store,take a copy of the ad ,they will price match their internet price.
My local hb tools carries them in stock,so so should yours.
also most big Napa part stores carry them and some sears.
I checked with my Napa and he stocks the E8 and says you have one in rochester and the one in 45th ave has them in stock also.
Make sure you have the hood release tab pushed if your car has one,so that the hood is in the all the way up.Lay a fender guard or blanket on the fender and dive in
another good reference in in the resource section diy articles on www.mercedesshop.com
m112 m113 cps r/r.
I hope you got the new one from autohausaz.com,they are down into the low $50's now delivered free
I think the market has bottomed
p.s. don't use loctite on the threads,you don't need it.
if you have one near you
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36562
Harbor Freight USA
725 45TH AVE NE
MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55421 call first to make sure it is in stock at the brick and mortar store,take a copy of the ad ,they will price match their internet price.
My local hb tools carries them in stock,so so should yours.
also most big Napa part stores carry them and some sears.
I checked with my Napa and he stocks the E8 and says you have one in rochester and the one in 45th ave has them in stock also.
Last edited by ohlord; 03-28-2009 at 11:31 AM.
#5
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Two questions; (1) is this the first time the sensor has been changed? (2) are you going with the AB Elektronik part (which is OEM I think), or the Bosch part? Thanks
#7
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#8
I ordered one from Autohaus last week*. It will be here today (strike that - Just checked UPS.com and it's tomorrow). I'll take pictures of both (and post them) before I put the new one in.
* It was $40.10 (link) Best price around. Free shipping (would have been $8) with orders over $50, so I added a pair of wiper blades for $10, so for essentially $2 more than I was going to spend I got the blades. With the money I saved on parts (not to mention labor) it paid for the tools I needed ($8 sockets and $8 for the 1/4" extensions - from my local Harbor Freight).
PS. If you buy the sockets, I suggest buying 1/4" (I don't think a larger drive would fit in the gap between sensor and bolt) "deep" sockets as it made it much easy to get to the bolt, which is located rather close to the sensor itself.
* It was $40.10 (link) Best price around. Free shipping (would have been $8) with orders over $50, so I added a pair of wiper blades for $10, so for essentially $2 more than I was going to spend I got the blades. With the money I saved on parts (not to mention labor) it paid for the tools I needed ($8 sockets and $8 for the 1/4" extensions - from my local Harbor Freight).
PS. If you buy the sockets, I suggest buying 1/4" (I don't think a larger drive would fit in the gap between sensor and bolt) "deep" sockets as it made it much easy to get to the bolt, which is located rather close to the sensor itself.
Last edited by EricJRW; 05-11-2009 at 12:23 PM. Reason: Delivery update & link
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Good
tip.You all listen up to the noob
he will be driving circles around you soon,if he is that observant
also be sure to index the new cps to the ecu.Helps out getting all the systems back to copesetic conditions.
he will be driving circles around you soon,if he is that observant
also be sure to index the new cps to the ecu.Helps out getting all the systems back to copesetic conditions.
#10
At first I read "cosmetic conditions" and thought if anyone ever sees this sensor again I will be amazed. But now I do need to figure out how to "index the new cps to the ecu" (maybe it's in the DIY link up top).
I did remove one wiring harness bracket from the left (drivers side) rear of the engine to improve access. And I'm using a 18" 1/4" extension. On that I have a "u-joint" and then the E8 deep socket. I taped the pieces together to prevent accidental drops. I also wrapped the u-joint with a rubber-band so I can guide it onto the bolt without it flopping around...
Dang I wish UPS was coming today.
PS. I did not need the male torx, so I went with this set and saved a few (more) dollars:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95178
I did remove one wiring harness bracket from the left (drivers side) rear of the engine to improve access. And I'm using a 18" 1/4" extension. On that I have a "u-joint" and then the E8 deep socket. I taped the pieces together to prevent accidental drops. I also wrapped the u-joint with a rubber-band so I can guide it onto the bolt without it flopping around...
Dang I wish UPS was coming today.
PS. I did not need the male torx, so I went with this set and saved a few (more) dollars:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95178
Last edited by EricJRW; 05-11-2009 at 12:13 PM. Reason: Added socket link
#11
New part is in... Running like a top. So happy! CEL went out on its own.
Both made by Bosch.
Old is labeled:
Side 1: (IMG_2861.JPG)
00 W 37
(M) MERCEDES BENZ
A 003 153 27 28
Side 2: (IMG_2860.JPG)
(B) BOSCH
(816) 0 261 210 171
089 3A Made in Germany
New is labeled:
Side 1: (IMG_2861.JPG)
08 W 49
Side 2: (IMG_2860.JPG)
(B) BOSCH
(816) 0 261 210 170
892250 Made in Germany
Notes:
1. (M) Is the Mercedes logo
2. (B) Is the Bosch logo
3. (816) is actually in an oval
4. The info in front of "Made in Germany" looks like some sort of date stamp, it is not molded like the other info.
As promised, here's photos (attached).
Old is on the left. New on the right.
If you want better pictures, let me know.
Thanks for all the help,
Eric
Both made by Bosch.
Old is labeled:
Side 1: (IMG_2861.JPG)
00 W 37
(M) MERCEDES BENZ
A 003 153 27 28
Side 2: (IMG_2860.JPG)
(B) BOSCH
(816) 0 261 210 171
089 3A Made in Germany
New is labeled:
Side 1: (IMG_2861.JPG)
08 W 49
Side 2: (IMG_2860.JPG)
(B) BOSCH
(816) 0 261 210 170
892250 Made in Germany
Notes:
1. (M) Is the Mercedes logo
2. (B) Is the Bosch logo
3. (816) is actually in an oval
4. The info in front of "Made in Germany" looks like some sort of date stamp, it is not molded like the other info.
As promised, here's photos (attached).
Old is on the left. New on the right.
If you want better pictures, let me know.
Thanks for all the help,
Eric
Last edited by EricJRW; 05-13-2009 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Fixed some typos added to the notes