03 E320 Pulling to the right
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Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 75
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Broke Acura
03 E320 Pulling to the right
Hello,
I bought this e320 right when it came out and it had the dreaded drift to the right. I've brought it in numerous times and it never got fixed. The two dealers I brought it to in Austin and Georgetown have no idea what it is. Can anyone help? Thanks
I bought this e320 right when it came out and it had the dreaded drift to the right. I've brought it in numerous times and it never got fixed. The two dealers I brought it to in Austin and Georgetown have no idea what it is. Can anyone help? Thanks
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
Pulling to right
I had the same issue coupled with heavy inside tire wear. There is a full thread on this don't have all the details but they are on this site. I posted the alignment specs used to make the car drive straight. Cost about $400 at an independant shop (not a mercedes dealer) to do the alignment. The dealer kept telling me it was aligned to specs. The specs were for Europe and not typical US driving. I also had to buy a special "bolt" @ $35.00 ea to use to make the adjustment. MB knows about these issues but you might have to find someone willing to help. Jim
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
00 E430 Sport
If you have Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires on your car with stamped DOT # lower than 2804 (build date 28th week of 2004) then that is/could be part of the problem. MB put out a bulletin to dealers that this tire was not recommended due to tracking problems. Michelin changed/built up the shoulders of the tire to correct the problem. But only on tires with DOT # 2804 and higher. Michelin will prorate your tires under warranty on MBs so equipped. (lower than 2804)
Been there done that.
Been there done that.
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 571
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Hightower,
I have had my car aligned under warranty numerous times. As for the pulling issue, I had the same problem with my 02 c230 and my 03 c 320. Both times the issue was corrected with new offset camber/caster bolts directly from MB. They actually have a part number for these items, and they were installed under warranty! Ask to speak directly to the alignment guy. I will see if I have my 02 paperwork with the part numbers on it. Hope this helps.
I have had my car aligned under warranty numerous times. As for the pulling issue, I had the same problem with my 02 c230 and my 03 c 320. Both times the issue was corrected with new offset camber/caster bolts directly from MB. They actually have a part number for these items, and they were installed under warranty! Ask to speak directly to the alignment guy. I will see if I have my 02 paperwork with the part numbers on it. Hope this helps.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 755
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From: USA
LS7 powered Corvette
The alignment should be covered for 12months or 12000 miles whichever comes first. That is the truth, bottom line. The car is set from the factory to be driven in Europe and the alignment is not setup to compensate for road crown.
The "bolt" you are speaking of is slotted. The bushings in the lower control arm, and guide strut have two sets of notches in them that correspond to the slots in the bolt. The factory bolt can only be installed in the middle of the notches in the bushings. The change in alignment angle is acheived by repositioning one or multiple control arms and installing the slotted bolt.
For example: typical scenario.. car pulls right due to road crown. Make first caster sweep and all angles are within specification and/or even left to right. Add more positive caster to the left front by installing the "bolt" into the right guide strut mount and pull the mount forward. That gives you more positive caster which will make the car track straight down the road. Usually, a 1/2 degree is what is gained. Thats all it takes....
Thats pretty basic, as far as alignment there are a lot of variables that can cause the car to pull one way or the other.
The "bolt" you are speaking of is slotted. The bushings in the lower control arm, and guide strut have two sets of notches in them that correspond to the slots in the bolt. The factory bolt can only be installed in the middle of the notches in the bushings. The change in alignment angle is acheived by repositioning one or multiple control arms and installing the slotted bolt.
For example: typical scenario.. car pulls right due to road crown. Make first caster sweep and all angles are within specification and/or even left to right. Add more positive caster to the left front by installing the "bolt" into the right guide strut mount and pull the mount forward. That gives you more positive caster which will make the car track straight down the road. Usually, a 1/2 degree is what is gained. Thats all it takes....
Thats pretty basic, as far as alignment there are a lot of variables that can cause the car to pull one way or the other.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
00 E430 Sport
Try finding a strip of hiway with a center crown on your side with two lanes and drive on the left side and see if you cross/drift over crown on the right. While hard to find such a road it will really give you some insight/clue as to the problem.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
The alignment should be covered for 12months or 12000 miles whichever comes first. That is the truth, bottom line. The car is set from the factory to be driven in Europe and the alignment is not setup to compensate for road crown.
The "bolt" you are speaking of is slotted. The bushings in the lower control arm, and guide strut have two sets of notches in them that correspond to the slots in the bolt. The factory bolt can only be installed in the middle of the notches in the bushings. The change in alignment angle is acheived by repositioning one or multiple control arms and installing the slotted bolt.
For example: typical scenario.. car pulls right due to road crown. Make first caster sweep and all angles are within specification and/or even left to right. Add more positive caster to the left front by installing the "bolt" into the right guide strut mount and pull the mount forward. That gives you more positive caster which will make the car track straight down the road. Usually, a 1/2 degree is what is gained. Thats all it takes....
Thats pretty basic, as far as alignment there are a lot of variables that can cause the car to pull one way or the other.
The "bolt" you are speaking of is slotted. The bushings in the lower control arm, and guide strut have two sets of notches in them that correspond to the slots in the bolt. The factory bolt can only be installed in the middle of the notches in the bushings. The change in alignment angle is acheived by repositioning one or multiple control arms and installing the slotted bolt.
For example: typical scenario.. car pulls right due to road crown. Make first caster sweep and all angles are within specification and/or even left to right. Add more positive caster to the left front by installing the "bolt" into the right guide strut mount and pull the mount forward. That gives you more positive caster which will make the car track straight down the road. Usually, a 1/2 degree is what is gained. Thats all it takes....
Thats pretty basic, as far as alignment there are a lot of variables that can cause the car to pull one way or the other.
You have it all in this note how I solved my tire wear and pulling. I also had to reduce the toe in. vettdvr
