NEED Opinions...1970 280SE...Great condition
03-05-2008, 08:00 PM
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WTB: 1970-73 280 S/SE
NEED Opinions...1970 280SE...Great condition
So I've found what I consider to be a very good condition 1970 280SE. But it doesn't seem to start.
The man's father was the original owner, and he has had the car since his father passed on in 1977. It has been garage kept the entire time he's had it up until the last 4 months and driven moderately off and on since 77.
4-6 months ago it started to have an overheating issue.
The gentleman took it to a local shop to have it diagnosed. This is what he has said: "It had an overheat problem which a local mechanic thought was due to a timing problem. The water pump was removed and inspected and found to be good. No water was found in the oil so a head gasket problem didn't seem to be the problem nor a cracked head which would also have caused coolant in the oil. So it appeared that re-doing the dual point distributor would solve the problem. The mechanic then proceeded to put new points in the distributor and was then going to set the timing correctly. He was then not able to get the motor to start which is where the situation is now. "
Overall the car looks great. It was repainted and had some rust repair done to it at that time. It has great interior, all power windows work, and the man says the transmission and differential are both good.
He has been very good about answering all of my questions promptly and taking pictures of areas I asked him to for me. He even had the mechanic (where he's currently keeping the car because it now won't start) put the car up on a lift for me so that they could check out the underside.
This is what they found: "The unibody (frame) still has most of the undercoat and basically no rust. This is the same for the floor pans. The left core support for the radiator had a small rust hole. In the mechanic's opinion the car is very sound underneath with most of the undercoating still in place--not bad for a car 37 years old."
I am wondering what the experts here think about these issues. Specifically the overheating problem and why the car may not start after he messed with the distributor/timing... I'm really interested in the car.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
The man's father was the original owner, and he has had the car since his father passed on in 1977. It has been garage kept the entire time he's had it up until the last 4 months and driven moderately off and on since 77.
4-6 months ago it started to have an overheating issue.
The gentleman took it to a local shop to have it diagnosed. This is what he has said: "It had an overheat problem which a local mechanic thought was due to a timing problem. The water pump was removed and inspected and found to be good. No water was found in the oil so a head gasket problem didn't seem to be the problem nor a cracked head which would also have caused coolant in the oil. So it appeared that re-doing the dual point distributor would solve the problem. The mechanic then proceeded to put new points in the distributor and was then going to set the timing correctly. He was then not able to get the motor to start which is where the situation is now. "
Overall the car looks great. It was repainted and had some rust repair done to it at that time. It has great interior, all power windows work, and the man says the transmission and differential are both good.
He has been very good about answering all of my questions promptly and taking pictures of areas I asked him to for me. He even had the mechanic (where he's currently keeping the car because it now won't start) put the car up on a lift for me so that they could check out the underside.
This is what they found: "The unibody (frame) still has most of the undercoat and basically no rust. This is the same for the floor pans. The left core support for the radiator had a small rust hole. In the mechanic's opinion the car is very sound underneath with most of the undercoating still in place--not bad for a car 37 years old."
I am wondering what the experts here think about these issues. Specifically the overheating problem and why the car may not start after he messed with the distributor/timing... I'm really interested in the car.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
03-05-2008, 08:10 PM
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BMW E30. I've turned to the dark side.
RUN AND HIDE! STEER CLEAR! DON'T TOUCH IT WITH A 10FT POLE...
as a Mercedes tech with access to parts at cost, free labor, a rack, air tools, free fluids, I would never own one.
also my advice to everyone: absolutely NEVER buy a car that doesn't run. ie "just" needs a head gasket or "tune up" or "radiator". after you spend the money to get the engine rebuilt -read "tuned-up" -you'll likely find that the transmission doesn't shift either.
so, you're welcome. just my opinion of course. it's probably a nice car. a second opinion would be better from someone that has seen the car. have your local reliable tech look at it- not just the guy who's shop its at.
as a Mercedes tech with access to parts at cost, free labor, a rack, air tools, free fluids, I would never own one.
also my advice to everyone: absolutely NEVER buy a car that doesn't run. ie "just" needs a head gasket or "tune up" or "radiator". after you spend the money to get the engine rebuilt -read "tuned-up" -you'll likely find that the transmission doesn't shift either.
so, you're welcome. just my opinion of course. it's probably a nice car. a second opinion would be better from someone that has seen the car. have your local reliable tech look at it- not just the guy who's shop its at.
03-07-2008, 02:38 AM
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hmmm... it could be a nice car. But, like benz-tech had said, I would let someone take a look at the car. Better re-check all the car parts components and see if it works. Also consider the repair costs that you'll gonna be spending (if the car won't start); plus the maintenance cost you'll be having in the future. It would be best to look around and ask for opinion in your area regarding that car. Weigh things, have a pros/cons before you decide, whether to buy it or not, so as to avoid spending your money and have regrets... Good luck (it's just an opinion) you still have the last say... 
03-09-2008, 11:25 AM
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It changes all the time
The 70 and 71 M130 engines had a design flaw in the heads and either ran hot or developed pin holes in the castings which sprayed water into the cumbustion chambers. Welding the head was a hit and miss proposition. The 69 was the best of the bunch. It was basically the same as the 68, but had head rests. You really should give some thought to a 72 or 73 4.5. They run on regular. Thr're smooth on the road. If you buy any 108 car, be sure to have the front suspension checked. Owners tended to skip the 18 lubrication points on the car. It can cost around a grand to rebuild the king pins.
Good luck
Good luck
