bad battery?EIS? or key?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
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From: the shadows of Disneyland
2000 W210,Silver on black, slightly lowered,82k miles,simple and clean.
bad battery?EIS? or key?
Ok,so I've searched and searched about a no-start issue i'm having and narrowed it down it the possibility of 3 likely things,i think...
I have a 2000 E320 with 82k on the odometer and it as of yesterday started to act up with regards to starting. When i put the key in the ignition it will not unlock the column and let me turn the key at all. After many tries of inserting and removing the key it sometimes will unlock the wheel and let me turn the key to the "on" position, but will not even attempt to crank over when turned to the start position. Everything in the cars works as it should when i can get the key to turn the ignition on and when the engine starts it does not hesitate at all and fires quickly and runs great. But one thing i have found odd is that when this problem of the column not unlocking occurs is that if i repeatedly press the unlock button on the key fob while the key is inserted i have much better luck with getting the care fired up.
What i have narrowed the problem down to is a possible bad battery, the EIS, or maybe a bad key, or at least i think i have narrowed it down... My question is if there is a way to "test" my key to see if it is the cause? I cleaned the IR lens on the key and on the ignition its self with a Q-tip damp with water as well as new battery's in the key even though i know the key doesn't need them to start the car... I haven't yet pulled the battery out of the car to load test it (doing that tomorrow) and i don't have another key to try in the car,and i have also tried to tighten the ring around the ignition... I am really trying to avoid the dealer if i can so any input would be great!
I have a 2000 E320 with 82k on the odometer and it as of yesterday started to act up with regards to starting. When i put the key in the ignition it will not unlock the column and let me turn the key at all. After many tries of inserting and removing the key it sometimes will unlock the wheel and let me turn the key to the "on" position, but will not even attempt to crank over when turned to the start position. Everything in the cars works as it should when i can get the key to turn the ignition on and when the engine starts it does not hesitate at all and fires quickly and runs great. But one thing i have found odd is that when this problem of the column not unlocking occurs is that if i repeatedly press the unlock button on the key fob while the key is inserted i have much better luck with getting the care fired up.
What i have narrowed the problem down to is a possible bad battery, the EIS, or maybe a bad key, or at least i think i have narrowed it down... My question is if there is a way to "test" my key to see if it is the cause? I cleaned the IR lens on the key and on the ignition its self with a Q-tip damp with water as well as new battery's in the key even though i know the key doesn't need them to start the car... I haven't yet pulled the battery out of the car to load test it (doing that tomorrow) and i don't have another key to try in the car,and i have also tried to tighten the ring around the ignition... I am really trying to avoid the dealer if i can so any input would be great!
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Sydney, Australia
190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
Best way to test the key would be to use your second key and see if it makes a difference when it faults (ie. carry both keys for a while). Sounds a little like the EIS is failing, but it's hard to diagnose without a SDS connected while it's faulting. I would suggest in the mean time you put the key in the ignition to unlock the steering and remove the steering lock from the column and leaving it cable tied (wiring still connected) somewhere under the dash until you get the problem sorted. It'll at least help a bit if you get stuck or have to remove it later (you have to cut it off if it's locked on).
Last edited by Ausmbtech; Sep 16, 2010 at 08:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
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From: the shadows of Disneyland
2000 W210,Silver on black, slightly lowered,82k miles,simple and clean.
Thanks for the advice about pulling the steering lock until i get things fixed,i never really thought about what i'd do about that if i did get stuck somewhere and maybe had to move the car and steer it around... And i can't try another key seeing as though i only got one when i got the car a few months back and have not picked up another one, so i trying to see if there is i way of testing the only key i have.
I've got a close friend that owns an auto repair shop but he does not have a SDS,but hopefully he can point me to somewhere reasonable that isn't going to have majors problems figuring out what is faulty. Thanks again!
I've got a close friend that owns an auto repair shop but he does not have a SDS,but hopefully he can point me to somewhere reasonable that isn't going to have majors problems figuring out what is faulty. Thanks again!
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Joined: Jul 2012
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2002 CL500 to CL55 conversion
i know this thread is three years old but was there a solution? my key turns just fine but never initializes the fuel pump and tach, starter doesn't even crank when i turn the key to "Start"
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
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From: the shadows of Disneyland
2000 W210,Silver on black, slightly lowered,82k miles,simple and clean.
Wow, blast from the past! I had honestly forgot about this issue I had haha... I ended up picking up a new key and never had another issue with the car at all. I only recieved one key when I got the car. So I figured that even if the new key didn't resolve my problem that having a spare couldnt hurt. Sorry if this doesn't help too much.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
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From: the shadows of Disneyland
2000 W210,Silver on black, slightly lowered,82k miles,simple and clean.
The key would lock/unlock the doors and open/close the windows/sun roof as it should have. But it was hit or miss with unlocking the ignition so I assume the key was bad in some way since the problem stopped with the new key. And I never disconnected the battery, I needed an additional key no matter the case so I bit the bullet and spent the cash on one before I investigated further into the problem.
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