Dru-TuRn

So this is a new one for me. Battery is fine, but car wouldn't turn over, and didn't sound like the fuel pump was priming either. It was running and driving just fine on a 3 hour trip from OKC to Dallas, no signs of any issues. Then wouldn't start. After about an hour it started, after making no changes or adjustments to anything, other than checking fuses, and gave me an "ESP inoperable" message, which I've seen before but not on this particular car. Made a 2.5 trip back (at 90-100mph) with no problems, but I did refuel without turning the engine off for fear it wouldn't start again, ESP warning still lit. Just before the exit home, all of my gauges died, and new error messages, ESP, ABS, pre safe inoperable, but all secondary and accessory electronics still working (headlights, A/C, radio, windows, etc), and then message display lights up bright red with battery image, and all dash lights lit up like when the key is in accessory position rather than ignition position. I dropped some people off, went inside briefly, car still running, and when I tried to leave it wouldn't shift out of park (I'm assuming it has something to do with the ABS error), and a new message appeared, "coolant off, turn off engine", which I promptly did. And now it won't start again, still won't shift out of park, same error messages displayed. I've checked all "low" amp fuses, I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes (I know some vehicles will reset the ECU), and now I'm at a loss. All I know to do is connect a diagnostic computer, which I don't have. I really hope someone has experienced this as well and can point me in the right direction.

Thanks

bbirdwell

Until you connect a diagnostic system, you are shooting in the dark. There are 32 digital control modules in your car communicating with each other over a two-wire bus. Bite the bullet, tow it to an indy or a dealer, and let them diagnose. Alternatively, you can see if someone up in OKC has a STAR system and is willing to assist you. The battery image leads me to suspect an electrical issue and low voltage causes the digital control modules to go berserk. Nonetheless, don't just start replacing the alternator plus main battery until you check it out. On the other hand, if you do so before getting a diagnosis, at least you will have a new alternator and battery. With all of the errors occurring simultaneously, it could even be a failing CGW or just a bad connector on the CANBUS. This is why you want to use the diagnostic system. A diagnostic system was one of the first things I purchased and it has paid for itself multiple times over.