Ignition will not engage every time when turning the key
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 40
Likes: 7
From: Chicago Area
1993 190E, 2011 ML350, 2014 ML350, 2003 BMW 540i, 2013 GLK 350, 2014
Ignition will not engage every time when turning the key
2011 ML 350. When turning the key in the ignition, sometimes it will not engage the starter. Cycling it again once or more times, and it will engage the starter and start normally. Is there a service bulletin concerning the EIS in these models? I did an internet search and found quite a few of these models had the same problem.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 40
Likes: 7
From: Chicago Area
1993 190E, 2011 ML350, 2014 ML350, 2003 BMW 540i, 2013 GLK 350, 2014
It doesn't seem to matter but it's intermittent enough for me not be sure what causes it to work properly after it doesn't. The problem came up recently and lately it's with more frequency. The starter simply will not engage and sometimes the dashboard lights come on and sometimes not. I just returned from my local MBZ dealer (after replacement of the recalled airbag) and they said the EIS has to be replaced and it's $537 for the part and $485 to install and whatever else is involved like programming, etc. The EIS is the small electronic box the key goes into and it decides if it wants to start the car or not..
My question is after searching here and other websites, is there a fix I or my independent mechanic can do? When it first started doing it, my independent mechanic replaced the main battery (as it was needed anyway) but it didn't clear up the problem. I found places where the EIS can be sent in for repair and since it's matched to the car, they state it will not need programming.
Maybe you or a fellow member has seen this and has a solution? Maybe recommend a place that will refurb mine, or perhaps know of an easier (and less expensive) repair for the EIS? Thanks!
My question is after searching here and other websites, is there a fix I or my independent mechanic can do? When it first started doing it, my independent mechanic replaced the main battery (as it was needed anyway) but it didn't clear up the problem. I found places where the EIS can be sent in for repair and since it's matched to the car, they state it will not need programming.
Maybe you or a fellow member has seen this and has a solution? Maybe recommend a place that will refurb mine, or perhaps know of an easier (and less expensive) repair for the EIS? Thanks!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 40
Likes: 7
From: Chicago Area
1993 190E, 2011 ML350, 2014 ML350, 2003 BMW 540i, 2013 GLK 350, 2014
EIS
I researched this on the internet and found Pressertech in Georgia. They are able to replace the part if it isn’t fixable. ($150 up to $595). Scott spent time on the phone with me as he just did one of these recently and was able to explain how to remove/replace the part.
Sent in the EIS with the key by FedEx. I was told it wasn’t fixable and I had the new MBZ part in within 36 hours of removing it. Both keys work and it’s good as new!
With all the electronics and this part known to go bad, it made sense to replace it. Of course I mentioned it to the dealer when it was in for the free airbag recall. They mentioned it was the EIS so not sure if they diagnosed it or just made an educated guess.
Maybe some other places on eBay could have fixed it, but I chose a reputable speed shop that would definitely get me a new part of it was not fixable. Dealer was around $1000 and I fixed it for $595 plus shipping. Took the gamble as it could have been $150 if fixed so I still saved a few hundred bucks.
Sent in the EIS with the key by FedEx. I was told it wasn’t fixable and I had the new MBZ part in within 36 hours of removing it. Both keys work and it’s good as new!
With all the electronics and this part known to go bad, it made sense to replace it. Of course I mentioned it to the dealer when it was in for the free airbag recall. They mentioned it was the EIS so not sure if they diagnosed it or just made an educated guess.
Maybe some other places on eBay could have fixed it, but I chose a reputable speed shop that would definitely get me a new part of it was not fixable. Dealer was around $1000 and I fixed it for $595 plus shipping. Took the gamble as it could have been $150 if fixed so I still saved a few hundred bucks.
