Mercedes S320 CDI Dashboard and Ign cut out
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s320 cdi
Mercedes S320 CDI Dashboard and Ign cut out
Please can someone help?
I have a 2007 Mercedes S320 CDI that has some strange issues.
Ive noticed that if i leave the car locked, it will not reopen with the key fob. I have to open the boot manually and connect power to the rear boot light then it all restarts.
The second thing is that with the ign on, but not cranking the starter, the whole car including Dashboard just cuts out, you the have to take the key out completely, re insert to lights on again, then in a few seconds , everything goes off again. Clock resets , everything.
If you turn ignition on, and start the car, it behaves properly.
Because this switches the whole system down, you dont have enough time to scan the car.
My thoughts are, are these dashboards prone to soldering dry joint failiure?
Could it be the EIS ? Does exactly the same with both keys.
Just tried to test again and now the car wont crank at all, all voltages are correct.
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts
I have a 2007 Mercedes S320 CDI that has some strange issues.
Ive noticed that if i leave the car locked, it will not reopen with the key fob. I have to open the boot manually and connect power to the rear boot light then it all restarts.
The second thing is that with the ign on, but not cranking the starter, the whole car including Dashboard just cuts out, you the have to take the key out completely, re insert to lights on again, then in a few seconds , everything goes off again. Clock resets , everything.
If you turn ignition on, and start the car, it behaves properly.
Because this switches the whole system down, you dont have enough time to scan the car.
My thoughts are, are these dashboards prone to soldering dry joint failiure?
Could it be the EIS ? Does exactly the same with both keys.
Just tried to test again and now the car wont crank at all, all voltages are correct.
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2019
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From: Colorado
G550
Not sure what "soldering dry joints" are, but I don't think solder spontaneously catalyzes. Most of the symptoms you describe sound like battery related issues. Voltages can be OK, but a battery can still be defective. That's as good as any place to start.
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Joined: Apr 2019
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
power feed issue....
... Low voltage does sound like a bad battery issue or bad ground points or flaky SAM Relays.
You seem to have practical knowledge about your car, it will help get a quick closure.
BATT LOAD TEST:
Turn headlights ON and measure voltage at couple locations (at the battery then away, like Cig-socket...) then turn IGN ON.
Charge your battery and repeat above load test.
Voltage towards 12V is better than 10V (bad cell or discharged)
EXPECTATIONS:
Don't expect a good battery to hold a high load with a high voltage for a long time, let alone an old batt. Limit stress duration to 5mn or so... Not 30mn!
You need to ensure a good operating voltage because low voltage are synonym with higher currents (P = U x I).
Driving a car with low voltage is like driving on flat tires... everything gets chewed up!
You seem to have practical knowledge about your car, it will help get a quick closure.
BATT LOAD TEST:
Turn headlights ON and measure voltage at couple locations (at the battery then away, like Cig-socket...) then turn IGN ON.
Charge your battery and repeat above load test.
Voltage towards 12V is better than 10V (bad cell or discharged)
EXPECTATIONS:
Don't expect a good battery to hold a high load with a high voltage for a long time, let alone an old batt. Limit stress duration to 5mn or so... Not 30mn!
You need to ensure a good operating voltage because low voltage are synonym with higher currents (P = U x I).
Driving a car with low voltage is like driving on flat tires... everything gets chewed up!
