W212 722.9
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W212 722.9
Hi.
What will cause car shut when I shift P to D in cold starts? Car have rebuild torque converter about 100.000 kilometers since. Car also "crawls" very hard on cold. Must press brake hard that car dont move.
no fault codes srored.
some ideas?
What will cause car shut when I shift P to D in cold starts? Car have rebuild torque converter about 100.000 kilometers since. Car also "crawls" very hard on cold. Must press brake hard that car dont move.
no fault codes srored.
some ideas?
Out Of Control!!
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
how many miles on current ATF?
What happened to cause failure of first T-converter?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 15, 2025 at 03:18 AM.
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40tkm since last fluid change.
first converter have "harsh" lock up. And fault code friction is too high etc.
Fluid level maybe bit over the check pipe.
Last edited by Benzcruise; Feb 15, 2025 at 12:00 PM.
Out Of Control!!
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
My best guest is poorly compatible oil was used and now perhaps low...
722.9 must use genuine MB blue ATF...
Go to the dealer to get proper service!
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,993
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
These gearboxes can work very well given basic conditions are met. The only chance would be if this had to do with fluid.
✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 16, 2025 at 01:36 AM.
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Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,993
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
MYSTERIES ARE FEW
yeah, I too hope OP doesn't end up over a barrel because of bad "compatible" ATF.
OP must trust what ATF the gearbox is running before he gets funneled towards expensive recourse.
Say NO to "running adaptations". Tranny adapts itself when possible.
🤞
OP must trust what ATF the gearbox is running before he gets funneled towards expensive recourse.
Say NO to "running adaptations". Tranny adapts itself when possible.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 16, 2025 at 06:57 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
That's the problem when folks come asking for help but don't give us the information we need. I'm pretty sure there are instructions for new members to give the year and model of their car, plus their location.
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I agree at this point the OP needs to have the dealer service his tranny, but only if the dealer is trustworthy.
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E550 Coupe 2wd (2016)
One of my cars ('98 ML320) that was "unfixable", and the dealer gave up on, had this same problem.
When cold it would die when you put it gear. Didn't matter if you revved it prior to shift, or floored it, the idle would drop and die in a couple seconds. If you let it warm up first it was fine, but that takes too long when it's snowing and cold as F out. In the summer it took less time, but still way too long. This made troubleshooting a pita since it had to be cold to see it happen, so you get a few minutes a day to tinker.
I wanted to see if it was the cold eng or cold air that triggered it. With the eng fully warmed up I removed the air filter and filled the air box with ice cubes, and now, fully warm, it would die when put in gear. Ok, so it's the air temp it doesn't like and warmer air should do the trick. So I ran a dryer duct from the air box to the exhaust manifold so it can inhale warmer air in seconds. It worked perfectly and that's how it was until my mom decided she needed to crash it.
Don't say MAF sensor. It was the first thing I tried. I even tried a second one to be double sure. Also, of the three MAF I had, each worked perfectly in my '99 CLK320. It was simply a classic (for me) unfixable issue.
So, obviously, let us know if the problem goes away when warmed up.
Also, I don't buy into the fluid compatibility thing. I have never, nor would I ever, buy MB fluid for any part of any MB.
When cold it would die when you put it gear. Didn't matter if you revved it prior to shift, or floored it, the idle would drop and die in a couple seconds. If you let it warm up first it was fine, but that takes too long when it's snowing and cold as F out. In the summer it took less time, but still way too long. This made troubleshooting a pita since it had to be cold to see it happen, so you get a few minutes a day to tinker.
I wanted to see if it was the cold eng or cold air that triggered it. With the eng fully warmed up I removed the air filter and filled the air box with ice cubes, and now, fully warm, it would die when put in gear. Ok, so it's the air temp it doesn't like and warmer air should do the trick. So I ran a dryer duct from the air box to the exhaust manifold so it can inhale warmer air in seconds. It worked perfectly and that's how it was until my mom decided she needed to crash it.
Don't say MAF sensor. It was the first thing I tried. I even tried a second one to be double sure. Also, of the three MAF I had, each worked perfectly in my '99 CLK320. It was simply a classic (for me) unfixable issue.
So, obviously, let us know if the problem goes away when warmed up.
Also, I don't buy into the fluid compatibility thing. I have never, nor would I ever, buy MB fluid for any part of any MB.
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,498
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
@Chevota did you ever try disconnecting the air intake temperature sensor? Or did the car not have that?
What happens when cold air is in the intake? What doe the ECU do? Back in the carburetor days, there would be a hose from the exhaust manifold to the intake, with a flap that would open when cold and close when warm/hot. I think that was to help with cold starts to better evaporate the gas. In this case, maybe the OP should disconnect the IAT sensor and see what happens.
What happens when cold air is in the intake? What doe the ECU do? Back in the carburetor days, there would be a hose from the exhaust manifold to the intake, with a flap that would open when cold and close when warm/hot. I think that was to help with cold starts to better evaporate the gas. In this case, maybe the OP should disconnect the IAT sensor and see what happens.
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Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
bottom line
One of my cars ('98 ML320) that was "unfixable", and the dealer gave up on, had this same problem.
When cold it would die when you put it gear. Didn't matter if you revved it prior to shift, or floored it, the idle would drop and die in a couple seconds. If you let it warm up first it was fine, but that takes too long when it's snowing and cold as F out. In the summer it took less time, but still way too long. This made troubleshooting a pita since it had to be cold to see it happen, so you get a few minutes a day to tinker.
I wanted to see if it was the cold eng or cold air that triggered it. With the eng fully warmed up I removed the air filter and filled the air box with ice cubes, and now, fully warm, it would die when put in gear. Ok, so it's the air temp it doesn't like and warmer air should do the trick. So I ran a dryer duct from the air box to the exhaust manifold so it can inhale warmer air in seconds. It worked perfectly and that's how it was until my mom decided she needed to crash it.
Don't say MAF sensor. It was the first thing I tried. I even tried a second one to be double sure. Also, of the three MAF I had, each worked perfectly in my '99 CLK320. It was simply a classic (for me) unfixable issue.
So, obviously, let us know if the problem goes away when warmed up.
Also, I don't buy into the fluid compatibility thing. I have never, nor would I ever, buy MB fluid for any part of any MB.
When cold it would die when you put it gear. Didn't matter if you revved it prior to shift, or floored it, the idle would drop and die in a couple seconds. If you let it warm up first it was fine, but that takes too long when it's snowing and cold as F out. In the summer it took less time, but still way too long. This made troubleshooting a pita since it had to be cold to see it happen, so you get a few minutes a day to tinker.
I wanted to see if it was the cold eng or cold air that triggered it. With the eng fully warmed up I removed the air filter and filled the air box with ice cubes, and now, fully warm, it would die when put in gear. Ok, so it's the air temp it doesn't like and warmer air should do the trick. So I ran a dryer duct from the air box to the exhaust manifold so it can inhale warmer air in seconds. It worked perfectly and that's how it was until my mom decided she needed to crash it.
Don't say MAF sensor. It was the first thing I tried. I even tried a second one to be double sure. Also, of the three MAF I had, each worked perfectly in my '99 CLK320. It was simply a classic (for me) unfixable issue.
So, obviously, let us know if the problem goes away when warmed up.
Also, I don't buy into the fluid compatibility thing. I have never, nor would I ever, buy MB fluid for any part of any MB.
Troubleshooting is not easy.
Instead of saying NO... learn a bit.
When you get good you'll fix problem and not create them.
What matter are results.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 16, 2025 at 09:53 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 954
Likes: 245
E550 Coupe 2wd (2016)
Red; I can't recall for sure since that was 20 years ago, but I think the temp was in the MAF?
Cali; I'll try not to be insulted by that. You continue to baffle me with your bizarre comments
Cali; I'll try not to be insulted by that. You continue to baffle me with your bizarre comments
