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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Question 2007 ml63 modifications

hello, out there does anyone have any ml63 mod parts or ideas that they don't have any use for. I have an 2007 ml63 amg I am wanting more performance and power. also would be interested in any exterior mods. thanks in advance I am located in Atlanta area.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 09:22 PM
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1987 300D Turbo, 2007 ML63 AMG
Your message was from a year ago. My 2007 ML63 AMG now with 102,000 miles on it is a pleasure to drive the way it is. I would not dream of messing with it. Matter of fact I hardly ever exceed 2,000 RPM unless I am on the interstate, then it's 2,500 RPM max. Just knowing that I'm driving a thoroughbred and that all the potential it has is ready to use and at my fingertips is enough for me. Driving it carefully like that yields excellent gas mileage too. At a steady 60 mph you can counton 20 mpg. Driving mostly in suburban traffic south of Atlanta I have been averaging 16 mpg. Let me know where you are and how you have been doing.

Last edited by fritza2tt; May 12, 2014 at 09:25 PM.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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C63 507 AMG DA Car #19
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EC Tune is a must!
LW rotors....
Renntech lowering module..... should have been this way from the factory.
GL!
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Old May 13, 2014 | 03:59 PM
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Weistec supercharger package.....that's what I want on mine...lol
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Old May 13, 2014 | 04:27 PM
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You guys are gluttons for punishment. Keep screwing with this jewel of an engine and you'll wind up blowing it up! The cost of a new replacement engine is $60K!
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Old May 13, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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Old thread, but in case original poster is still curious, eurocharged V4 or V5 tune + blip is the way to go. That alone will unlock most of the power.

It will have no negative effect on engine. Counter-intuitively the most reliable engines are the eons that are run the hardest because they done have gunk and carbon build up. Using high quality gas, fuel injector cleaner, and running the **** out of an engine with frequent oil changes is the recipe for a healthy long lasting engine. Drive it like a grandma and you start to run into serious issues, (especially cars that sit too long and are not driven frequently)
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Old May 13, 2014 | 08:09 PM
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What you advise was what Dr. Porsche also said about the VW four cylinder air cooled engine, but I think it was mostly to keep the air coming so the engine would not overheat. (his words were "Der Motor soll jubeln!".) The diesel taxis had problems with coking up because they would spend so much time idling while waiting for a customer to show. But my 2007 ML63 AMG is well broken in by now with over 100,000 miles on it and still runs perfectly. I babied my old '98 E320 too. Ran it on medium grade (89) octane fuel, never over 3,000 RPM, and changed the oil every 10,000 miles. (There are two gallons of oil in these engines for lubrication and cooling!) I traded the E320 with 165,000 miles for the AMG. It still had the original spark plugs, two in each cylinder, same as the AMG. Once in a while I would drive for a few hours on the interstate and that was more than enough to keep the engine clean. It never gave me a bit of trouble either and on two trips to NY, 1000 miles one way from Atlanta, I averaged 30 + mpg! The knock sensor protects the engine by retarding the spark plug timing should the engine want to ping. But if you plan to drive up a mountain at 155 mph, then you better have high test gas in the tank! No need for that at 80 mph on the Interstate. The engine in my AMG turns just under 2,500 RPM at 80 mph and is hardly working. Not making the engine turn over 2,500 RPM, the AMG performs beautifully with medium grade fuel also. I think it is more important not to start the engine if you are not going to drive at least 8 - 10 miles, so the engine can get hot enough to keep condensation from gumming up the inside. :-)

Last edited by fritza2tt; May 15, 2014 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Remembered what Mr. Porsche said. :-)
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Old May 14, 2014 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by fritza2tt
What you advise was what Dr. Porsche also said about the VW four cylinder air cooled engine, but I think it was mostly to keep the air coming so the engine would not overheat. (Already forgot his exact words, "keep the engine screaming", or something like that.) The diesel taxis had problems with coking up because they would spend so much time idling while waiting for a customer to show. But my 2007 ML63 AMG is well broken in by now with over 100,000 miles on it and still runs perfectly. I babied my old '98 E320 too. Ran it on medium grade (89) octane fuel, never over 3,000 RPM, and changed the oil every 10,000 miles. (There are two gallons of oil in these engines for lubrication and cooling!) I traded the E320 with 165,000 miles for the AMG. It still had the original spark plugs, two in each cylinder, same as the AMG. Once in a while I would drive for a few hours on the interstate and that was more than enough to keep the engine clean. It never gave me a bit of trouble either and on two trips to NY, 1000 miles one way from Atlanta, I averaged 30 + mpg! The knock sensor protects the engine by retarding the spark plug timing should the engine want to ping. But if you plan to drive up a mountain at 155 mph, then you better have high test gas in the tank! No need for that at 80 mph on the Interstate. The engine in my AMG turns just under 2,500 RPM at 80 mph and is hardly working. Not making the engine turn over 2,500 RPM, the AMG performs beautifully with medium grade fuel also. I think it is more important not to start the engine if you are not going to drive at least 8 - 10 miles, so the engine can get hot enough to keep condensation from gumming up the inside. :-)
I really dont understand why you even own an AMG if you are not going to enjoy to anything remotely approaching its full potential. Why didnt you just get an ML350. Your purchase of an MAG seemsx k,ind of pointless to me
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Old May 15, 2014 | 07:13 AM
  #9  
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My 2007 ML63 AMG has a jewel of an engine, not to mention the rest 0f it. It is a collector's item, a work of art worthy of being preserved as long as possible.
Check out: http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2...26/041341.html
and Chris Walton, Chief Road Test Editor - 04/12/2006 "2007 Mercedes-Benz M-Class SUV"
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Old May 15, 2014 | 09:46 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Maverick1975
I really dont understand why you even own an AMG if you are not going to enjoy to anything remotely approaching its full potential. Why didnt you just get an ML350. Your purchase of an MAG seemsx k,ind of pointless to me
+1 haha, I hear the 2014 Toyota Camry is a great car
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Old May 15, 2014 | 03:52 PM
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08 C63, 07 ML63, 92 500E, 70 300SEL 6.3, 63 220 SEB Conv. Sold 02 G500, 97 E50,92 C280,71 280SE 4.5
Guys, we all have our reasons in buying this truck and IMO , although I too try to drive this and all my cars as hard as I can when possible , I don't think my way of enjoying it is the only way .

If driving it easy floats ones boat then all good for him or her right? As a matter of fact I would like to be next inline

Cheers

Now more to the topic of the thread should the OP still be interested in modding his truck, I have done the following and the mods in the following order.

1. Paddle shift conversion
2. Lower the car, ( I did this via star )
3. Center muffler delete
4. Led tail conversion
5. Side view mirror conversion
6. 21 " twin 5 spoke wheels and tires
7. Charcoal delete (if US)
What I want to do still.
Lighter rotors
A tune

2007 ml63 modifications-0ca5e14746faf0c46cb46a838f706470.jpg

2007 ml63 modifications-879de760423ca33a9bc4bade4d16b8ee.jpg
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Old May 15, 2014 | 05:48 PM
  #12  
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From: Fayetteville, GA
1987 300D Turbo, 2007 ML63 AMG
1. Paddle shift conversion
2. Lower the car, ( I did this via star )
3. Center muffler delete
4. Led tail conversion
5. Side view mirror conversion
6. 21 " twin 5 spoke wheels and tires
7. Charcoal delete (if US)
What I want to do still.
Lighter rotors
A tune

Thanks for being willing to 'live and let live'. I'm 85 and obviously my "Sturm und Drang" period was a long time ago. Question: Is your ML63 AMG a 2007 also? I'm intrigued by the LED tail conversion. That would be a safety enhancement. Mind telling us the cost of your different modifications and what benefits you gained? I'm all for making the "truck" more fuel efficient too. (By the way, the truck chassis was replaced by a 'uni-body' construction before 2007. You can't really call the 2007 model a truck any more.) Mine came with 20" tires. What's the benefit of switching to 21" wheels? Also, I look at mine like I would look at a Lipizaner Stallion who served his time in the ring and then got turned out to pasture. My 2007 served its first owner faithfully until about a year ago when he retired and sold it with 90,000 miles on it. CarFax records show that the 'truck' was always properly maintained and serviced by the dealer. There still is not even a scratch on it, original windshield with signature, the inside and outside is in showroom condition! Everytime I look at it it brings a smile to my face and I'm grateful to the man who bought it for having taken care of it so well. And just knowing how this vehicle was engineered, was built and what it is capable of doing is enough for me. My hope is that I can enjoy it and keep it like this for a long time. :-)
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Old May 16, 2014 | 08:41 AM
  #13  
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C63 507 AMG DA Car #19
Fritz - I respect your idea of staying stock.

But please consider taking a ride in a tuned ML before you say stock is best
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Old May 16, 2014 | 12:10 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by jafores
Guys, we all have our reasons in buying this truck and IMO , although I too try to drive this and all my cars as hard as I can when possible , I don't think my way of enjoying it is the only way .

If driving it easy floats ones boat then all good for him or her right? As a matter of fact I would like to be next inline

Cheers

Now more to the topic of the thread should the OP still be interested in modding his truck, I have done the following and the mods in the following order.

1. Paddle shift conversion
2. Lower the car, ( I did this via star )
3. Center muffler delete
4. Led tail conversion
5. Side view mirror conversion
6. 21 " twin 5 spoke wheels and tires
7. Charcoal delete (if US)
What I want to do still.
Lighter rotors
A tune
He last two things you still want to do are by far the most important and impact full on how the car will perform. Trust me they are worth every penny. Start off with tune, then do rotors.
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Old May 16, 2014 | 12:11 PM
  #15  
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Jafores,

How is ride quality after lowering with star diagnostic? I heard ride quality can get rough
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Old May 16, 2014 | 12:47 PM
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Don't throw the old rotors away. If they will fit my 2007 (15.4" in the front, smaller in the back) I'll take them and pay for the shipping. :-)
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Old May 17, 2014 | 03:44 AM
  #17  
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08 C63, 07 ML63, 92 500E, 70 300SEL 6.3, 63 220 SEB Conv. Sold 02 G500, 97 E50,92 C280,71 280SE 4.5
Originally Posted by fritza2tt

Question: Is your ML63 AMG a 2007 also? I'm intrigued by the LED tail conversion. That would be a safety enhancement.

Hello, yes its a 2007, I don't remember the cost of the tail lights but just bought them OEM thru my local parts dealer here in the Philippines


Mind telling us the cost of your different modifications and what benefits you gained?

The paddle shifters are stock 204 shifters, also bought OEM sorry I don't remember pricing but I guess yur local parts dealer can help . I really enjoyed them as shifting up and down is more positive and more enjoyable with these paddles offer the original buttons

Lowering the car made it look better IMO and I feel it handles a bit better But this could also be aided by the 21" wheels

The center muffler delete gave it a more meaty exhaust note specially from the outside .

Led was for aesthetics same as the side mirrors .

I gues the same goes for the wheels but these did come with a noticeable harshness in the ride . But I think its looks way better than the 07's 20"

Sorry can't remember the costs per component but can look them up if you really want them pls PM me

BTW re the rotors I replaced my first set and they are well worn, and I live in the Philippines I'm sure shipping will probably cost more than the discs :-)
Here is what it looked like before the mods


2007 ml63 modifications-2ml635.jpg

Last edited by jafores; May 17, 2014 at 03:51 AM.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 03:49 AM
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08 C63, 07 ML63, 92 500E, 70 300SEL 6.3, 63 220 SEB Conv. Sold 02 G500, 97 E50,92 C280,71 280SE 4.5
Originally Posted by ML63 AMG
He last two things you still want to do are by far the most important and impact full on how the car will perform. Trust me they are worth every penny. Start off with tune, then do rotors.
Thanks ML63, I have been holding off on the tune cause I would like to be able to do a baseline dyno before the tune, unfortunately the dynos here in the Philippines are un coupled and they say it's not good for the 4WD sytem.

I tuned my C63 and it did do wonders , I hope the coupler for our local dyno arrives soon.

As for the lighter rotors I really want to do them but I just recently replaced my discs and can't justify the expense considering my rotors are new. Will definitely do them when I need a new set.

Re the ride, there is a noticeable harshness to it but I think it comes more from the 21"s they feel really heavy and our roads here in Manila will put New York City's streets to shame !

Last edited by jafores; May 17, 2014 at 03:54 AM.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by betrezra
Fritz - I respect your idea of staying stock.

But please consider taking a ride in a tuned ML before you say stock is best
What is affected by 'tuning'? A smoother ride? More acceleration? I could see where lighter wheel assemblies (rotors, rims and tires) would decrease un-sprung weight and that would give you a smoother ride, even if you have the air suspension already.

My 2007 ML63 AMG had today 102,452 miles on it. It has not been modified. Still is the way it came from the factory with top speed limited to 155 mph and it also is supposed to accelerate from 0-60 mph in less than 5 seconds. I would not want to change any of that.

In the last four months I drove on the interstate and on suburban roads 2,789 miles, burned 171,47 gallons of fuel, which came to an average of 16.26 mpg. Fuel consumption is my main priority and I have not seen a modification which will improve that.

I observed that driving at a steady 60 mph, after the engine is hot, I can get 20 mpg on the read-out. By noting the fuel consumption at different speeds, I came to the conclusion that fuel consumption varies mainly with the speed you are driving at and should work out to something like this:

50 mph = 22 mpg (1500 RPM in 7th gear)
60 mph = 20 mpg (1800 RPM " "
70 mph = 18 mpg (2100 RPM " "
80 mph = 16 mpg (2400 RPM " "
90 mph = 14 mpg (2700 RPM " "

My question is, why would anyone want to mess with a winning combination like this, which was already optimized by the best engineers at Mercedes Benz?
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:49 AM
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Fritz- you and I speak different languages when it comes to automobiles.
Cheers!
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:19 AM
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If fuel consumption is a priority why own an ML63 that you don't explore even 50% of the potential f. It just seems ludicrous to me. You drive a thirsty V8 that is built to be thrashed and all you care about is driving it as frugally as possible? Trade it in
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 05:55 PM
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Blown 208 55 amg, 211 55 amg
Rofl
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:10 PM
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fritza2tt
You guys are gluttons for punishment. Keep screwing with this jewel of an engine and you'll wind up blowing it up! The cost of a new replacement engine is $60K!
$60k for a replacement engine? Where the hell do you guys get your info from? Please put the pipe down.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ML63 AMG
Old thread, but in case original poster is still curious, eurocharged V4 or V5 tune + blip is the way to go. That alone will unlock most of the power.

It will have no negative effect on engine. Counter-intuitively the most reliable engines are the eons that are run the hardest because they done have gunk and carbon build up. Using high quality gas, fuel injector cleaner, and running the **** out of an engine with frequent oil changes is the recipe for a healthy long lasting engine. Drive it like a grandma and you start to run into serious issues, (especially cars that sit too long and are not driven frequently)
Why do you guys keep saying these motors will run better if you beat on them? And problems is you drive them easy? Haven't heard anyone explain how this true. Because its not true.
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