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Hello All,
As my title says I'm a new owner of a 2012 E63 AMG. My Wife's car is an 08 E350 and prior to that she had an 02 C320. Until I met and untimely married her I had always been a General Motors guy but she has converted me. LOL!!! This car came with an extensive list of services and is great shape. I haven't gotten it out and really "Exercised" it but so far, WOW!!!! I've spent the last few days detailing the inside and underhood and took pieces and parts to make a replacement star/medallion for the center engine cover that seems to be missing on all older 63. I'm looking forward to asking and getting good information and help from you guys.
So, I'm throwing this out there. I have no check engine lights and the Indy shop that specializes in European cars and has serviced this car the last few years told me it's a good car and that's the main reason I bought it. But, it's noisy at start up, chain rattling, etc. They said not to worry until it starts throwing codes. Should I install check valves/ new tensioners or wait and see if I need to replace the timing chain, tensioners, guides, etc. The car runs and sounds great!!!!
So, I'm throwing this out there. I have no check engine lights and the Indy shop that specializes in European cars and has serviced this car the last few years told me it's a good car and that's the main reason I bought it. But, it's noisy at start up, chain rattling, etc. They said not to worry until it starts throwing codes. Should I install check valves/ new tensioners or wait and see if I need to replace the timing chain, tensioners, guides, etc. The car runs and sounds great!!!!
it would be my suggestion as somebody that did this myself that you absolutely want to install new check valves and tensioners. When I bought my 2013 wagon with 42,000 miles I would occasionally have a one second rattle on start up and it didn’t matter what oil I used it would eventually happen perhaps once a week. It was debatable as to whether or not my car had one or two check valves. When I opened it up, it didn’t have either of the check valves and it had an old tensioners. Since installing those check valves, I’ve not had one rattle with new tensioners. The problem with rattling is that it’s going to take out your cam phasers much sooner. Before doing this many of us might recommend boroscoping the cylinders and doing compression and leak down tests to see where your baseline is and where the money should or should not be spent.
we have plenty of tech information on this forum to get most of what you need done at home for a fraction of the cost of an Indy or a dealer, if you are able.
Last edited by Baltistyle; Jul 3, 2025 at 08:18 AM.
Thinks for the suggestion. I've been looking at the "Kit" FCP Euro carries and I've also thought about taking the plunge and doing the chains, guides, etc. I'm a pretty hands on guy and and I'm retired so I don't drive as much now and I have other vehicles I can drive so the car can be down for a while. Might biggest concern is the timing and I've watched several YouTubes and it seems to be some discrepancy about the timing. And I will defiantly buy a manual before I do anything. I agree with your suggestion about boring scoping it first. I think I'm afraid I might see something that will scare me. LOL!!!!
Thanks!!! I look forward to "Wrenching" on it as long as it doesn't turn into a full time job. LOL!!!!
I have found this engine to be very DIY friendly though not quick in execution to work on…
with a new chain, you’re gonna need all new guides and gears and phasers as well so unless you’re actually seeing a problem when you go into do the check valves and tensioners, I would just keep it in mind. I’m using my phone so can’t look further back in the thread at this moment, but did you mention whether or not you have the split timing chain or the new timing chain? You can digitally check your timing with xentry and you can manually check your timing by doing the process to view the reluctor wheel on the camshaft through the camshaft position sensor ports.
I had some pics from my repair on here under a key term of “check valves” if you need.
Last edited by Baltistyle; Jul 4, 2025 at 11:13 AM.
Great info!! I'll have to look into checking the timing as you've mentioned. So, am I to assume if the timing checks out O.K. I'd be safe in just doing the check valve and tensioners? It does have the "Old" style split chain.
Great info!! I'll have to look into checking the timing as you've mentioned. So, am I to assume if the timing checks out O.K. I'd be safe in just doing the check valve and tensioners? It does have the "Old" style split chain.
yes. That will help prolong its life. Having done this repair myself, I think we saw progressive changes from Mercedes to fix the oiling problems on the top end and the check valves and the tensioners will help keep the adjusters tensioners full of oil. You might consider the oil pump solenoid disconnect as well. There’s a lot of info here about grades of oil 5/40-5/50 sp. Between these minor repairs and maintenance items, it will help a lot.
other items while you are in there could be front turbo coolant pipes which have to be moved for this repair and may break. Oil filter housing seals as well since that has to be moved. Drive side solenoid magnet behind oil filter as others can be replaced at another time. If you want to spend, a thermostat and preventive water pump could always be on the table…cause plastic is plastic.
Thanks for the suggestions and I agree with all of them. I spoke with a fellow from FCP Euro yesterday and he said they don't offer a Timing Chain "Kit" for the 157 like they do for other engines but he suggested the very solution you've described. I've already disconnected the oil solenoid and perhaps it's wishful thinking but I think it may have helped a little. I saw your post about when you did yours and If I'm not mistaken you said to set the timing at 40 to get the tensioners out but I've watched a couple of videos, one by I think his name is Tasos and another from Germany that says it need to be at 53 and these early cars don't have that marked and you have cut a piece of tape I believe 19mm and put that at the 40 mark and use that to establish the 53. Have you heard anything about that?
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