dyned my cls, is this normal for a 500 engine?
06-23-2006, 10:44 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
dyned my cls, is this normal for a 500 engine?
ok so i have some minor mods on the car and decided to run it on a dynojet but i have acouple of questions on it... On the chart the dyno leveled off at 257HP to the wheels in 4th and 296 lb/tq. Is this the number that i use? or do i use the peak HP with peaked at 298HP and 326lb/tq... I'm guessin I use the lower number as that prob translates to about 308HP and 355lb/tq ... also my tech is telling me that he thinks my car is running alittle rich at about 12.3... hes not to experienced with benz so he's not sure... with my mods what do you think? i'm guessin its about what i thought it would be...
mods:
greenfilter
gutted custom aa exhaust
3" X-Pipe
EuroRev ECU reprogramming
__________________
mods:
greenfilter
gutted custom aa exhaust
3" X-Pipe
EuroRev ECU reprogramming
__________________
06-24-2006, 08:14 AM
#2
Originally Posted by TectiteE
ok so i have some minor mods on the car and decided to run it on a dynojet but i have acouple of questions on it... On the chart the dyno leveled off at 257HP to the wheels in 4th and 296 lb/tq. Is this the number that i use? or do i use the peak HP with peaked at 298HP and 326lb/tq... I'm guessin I use the lower number as that prob translates to about 308HP and 355lb/tq ... also my tech is telling me that he thinks my car is running alittle rich at about 12.3... hes not to experienced with benz so he's not sure... with my mods what do you think? i'm guessin its about what i thought it would be...
mods:
greenfilter
gutted custom aa exhaust
3" X-Pipe
EuroRev ECU reprogramming
__________________
mods:
greenfilter
gutted custom aa exhaust
3" X-Pipe
EuroRev ECU reprogramming
__________________
.........12.3 A/F ratio is not bad. It keeps your engine safe. You can pick up a few more HP by running a bit more lean, but 12.3 is quite alright.
Ted
06-24-2006, 03:33 PM
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05 ML350, 85 300D
Mind if I ask how he came up with this A/F ratio #? Seems to me that is way rich for a car not running a blower, or any thing that you need to richen 'to keep it safe' as Ted said. But even back with carburated, blown, high compression, super timing advanced drag race engine, you still try to get as close to 14.7 as possible-14.1,13.9 maybe 13.7-after that you are getting into rich misfire with most cars.
This is just basic- if 14.7:1 is perfect, then 12.3:1 is huge rich- seems to me the car would never go closed loop at that- the O2 sensors would be pegged at one extreme, adaptations would never set, not to mention check engine light, etc.
This is just basic- if 14.7:1 is perfect, then 12.3:1 is huge rich- seems to me the car would never go closed loop at that- the O2 sensors would be pegged at one extreme, adaptations would never set, not to mention check engine light, etc.
06-24-2006, 05:30 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MBTech21
Mind if I ask how he came up with this A/F ratio #? Seems to me that is way rich for a car not running a blower, or any thing that you need to richen 'to keep it safe' as Ted said. But even back with carburated, blown, high compression, super timing advanced drag race engine, you still try to get as close to 14.7 as possible-14.1,13.9 maybe 13.7-after that you are getting into rich misfire with most cars.
This is just basic- if 14.7:1 is perfect, then 12.3:1 is huge rich- seems to me the car would never go closed loop at that- the O2 sensors would be pegged at one extreme, adaptations would never set, not to mention check engine light, etc.
This is just basic- if 14.7:1 is perfect, then 12.3:1 is huge rich- seems to me the car would never go closed loop at that- the O2 sensors would be pegged at one extreme, adaptations would never set, not to mention check engine light, etc.
not sure, they stuck some type of machine with what looked to be a metal wire into the exhaust... how accurate are they?
06-24-2006, 06:46 PM
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05 ML350, 85 300D
Thats a gas analyzer- great tool, a little distorted by cats, but still a great tool. Not enough people use them IMO, but the scanners have convinced everyone that they must be right, so why go back to basic science? I'd love to meet the guy that could figure your A/f ratio in percentage by looking at a gas reading- dude has some skills if he can do that. I love using a 4-gas and I have to admit- I'd being pulling numbers out of my a#$ if I was trying to figure our how far a car is off isiometric (sp?) from that.
Back in the day, everyone figured richer was better, due to the fuel starved cars that the 70s brought on, but it's not the case- rich misfire is just as bad as lean.
Did he give you the readings? ANY car (I'm talking new models so we don't have people coming in with 6.9s telling me I'm wrong), the C/O (richness) after cat should be less than 1 (almost 0 in a stock car), HC under 50 (thats unburned fuel or oil - higher can be caused by engine wear or lean or rich misfire-thats it), O2 should be 1-2, *** should be around 14-15 higher the better, illustrates the quality of the burn.
These numbers would apply to any engine-modded or not-(within a parameter) On a full race version, I might want to see (adjusting for cat-which we obviously wouldn't have for real)- close to 1, HC around 100 (here's the exception-due to the oil burning of the blueprinting), O2 at 1 (extra fuel and oil) and *** at 15.5-17 (if it's not, something is off, need more ignition or compression or something).
Back in the day, everyone figured richer was better, due to the fuel starved cars that the 70s brought on, but it's not the case- rich misfire is just as bad as lean.
Did he give you the readings? ANY car (I'm talking new models so we don't have people coming in with 6.9s telling me I'm wrong), the C/O (richness) after cat should be less than 1 (almost 0 in a stock car), HC under 50 (thats unburned fuel or oil - higher can be caused by engine wear or lean or rich misfire-thats it), O2 should be 1-2, *** should be around 14-15 higher the better, illustrates the quality of the burn.
These numbers would apply to any engine-modded or not-(within a parameter) On a full race version, I might want to see (adjusting for cat-which we obviously wouldn't have for real)- close to 1, HC around 100 (here's the exception-due to the oil burning of the blueprinting), O2 at 1 (extra fuel and oil) and *** at 15.5-17 (if it's not, something is off, need more ignition or compression or something).
06-24-2006, 08:59 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
so are you saying that those readings could be inaccurate?? The software on the dynojet showed those numbers at each gear... if it is running rich what can i do to lean it out? btw thanks for your help and input mbtech...
06-24-2006, 11:31 PM
#7
.............Its all in semantics. I think 12.3:1 is rich but not way rich.
.............secondly the aacurate way to measure A/F ratio that you actually want to do something with is to use a bong. The method you described gives you a general idea that your engine is running safely. If you are concerned about your A/F ratio, next time you dyno your car ask them to creat and use a bong.
Ted
.............secondly the aacurate way to measure A/F ratio that you actually want to do something with is to use a bong. The method you described gives you a general idea that your engine is running safely. If you are concerned about your A/F ratio, next time you dyno your car ask them to creat and use a bong.
Ted
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06-25-2006, 11:42 AM
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Running 14.7:1 @ WOT would certainly melt your engine to nothing, escpecially if it were blown. Reason why it's ideal to run a car at 14.7:1 during cruise is this is where most fuels have the best combustion and a catalyst works it's best at reducing emmisions. Since most O2 sensors are switching types, they are designed to swtich right around that A/F range in closed loop to keep the fuel system running right around 14.7:1. Very very very few vehicles run closed loop @ WOT.
Your best fuel economy is around 16:1 but you need special catalysts to run that lean AND reduce emmisions. Usually the OEM's (MB included) will run a car at WOT/high load in the 11:1 range. They do this for catalyst protection (rich = cooler exh temps.. to a point) and they really have no idea once the car is sold, how it will be driven and with what fuels. So they have to be very conservative. Whoever did his chip, obviously leaned it out to make more power. LBT on a N/A engine is around 13.2:1. Running leaner than this won't make any more power and you run the risk of engine damage. 12.5:1 is a good rule of thumb for all around safest max power. You should be able to beat on that car all day long and never have any issues. For a blown engine, you'd probably want to be richer than that as the extra fuel helps in cooling.
These numbers are for fuel tuning only.. if you put spark tuning into the mix, you must run it richer if your advancing the timing. As an example, we run our racecar at about 10.0:1 and it makes right around 2500HP on gasoline (supercharged smallblock Ford). Reason why is we are running quite a bit of timing. The HP/TQ the extra timing gives us more than makes up for the loss in HP we get from running it rich.
If the A/F numbers you got on the car were at the tailpipe and on a Dynojet, the true A/F numbers on the street are closer to 13:1. I'd say whoever did the tuning on your chip did a pretty good job. Be happy with it.
Your best fuel economy is around 16:1 but you need special catalysts to run that lean AND reduce emmisions. Usually the OEM's (MB included) will run a car at WOT/high load in the 11:1 range. They do this for catalyst protection (rich = cooler exh temps.. to a point) and they really have no idea once the car is sold, how it will be driven and with what fuels. So they have to be very conservative. Whoever did his chip, obviously leaned it out to make more power. LBT on a N/A engine is around 13.2:1. Running leaner than this won't make any more power and you run the risk of engine damage. 12.5:1 is a good rule of thumb for all around safest max power. You should be able to beat on that car all day long and never have any issues. For a blown engine, you'd probably want to be richer than that as the extra fuel helps in cooling.
These numbers are for fuel tuning only.. if you put spark tuning into the mix, you must run it richer if your advancing the timing. As an example, we run our racecar at about 10.0:1 and it makes right around 2500HP on gasoline (supercharged smallblock Ford). Reason why is we are running quite a bit of timing. The HP/TQ the extra timing gives us more than makes up for the loss in HP we get from running it rich.
If the A/F numbers you got on the car were at the tailpipe and on a Dynojet, the true A/F numbers on the street are closer to 13:1. I'd say whoever did the tuning on your chip did a pretty good job. Be happy with it.
06-25-2006, 09:09 PM
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05 ML350, 85 300D
Firstly-isiometric(sp) came along with the advent of the gasoline engine- so the fuels and cats/O2s, etc have zero to do with it.
Although everyone seems to want to disagree with it, and wants to improve it- it has held up for more than 100 years..
Now, I'm not sure who 'we' are, but I know several people that would love to hire 'we' if you can make 2500 hp from a small block ford that runs on gasoline. Not being smart- for real, that kind of genius makes big jack and Iknow several people that would love someone that have that.
Although everyone seems to want to disagree with it, and wants to improve it- it has held up for more than 100 years..
Now, I'm not sure who 'we' are, but I know several people that would love to hire 'we' if you can make 2500 hp from a small block ford that runs on gasoline. Not being smart- for real, that kind of genius makes big jack and Iknow several people that would love someone that have that.
06-26-2006, 08:40 AM
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Do you mean stoicheometric?
Stoicheometric is the chemically correct A/F for most modern gasolines to which is about 14.64 for most modern gasolines. 14.7 is a generic avg most people use. Like I said that A/F makes the most complete burn of the fuel and is where cats are designed to work. You wouldn't want to run an engine at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at stoich as it will tend to break. Trust me.
Here is a little bit about the 'me' part in the 'we'.
I own a couple automotive engineering companies. We make tuning products and other things. I started with doing Ford cars/trucks in the 1980's and was the 1st to offer custom tuning for Ford's (I.E. you could tune your fuel and spark yourself.. unlike buying somebodies chip and praying they did a tune that was for your exact combo).
I am also an EPA subcontractor so I know engines and emissions and all that. The new light duty truck/SUV standards that all the OEM's have to meet is alot of my work. Of course the OEM's hate me now
They got really hot when we showed them a 2001 Ford Expedition with a 5.4l V8 engine that ran the same #'s as a 2007 California ULEV Honda. Right now we're doing new cold start emmisions standards and next is Tier 3 (WOT emissions).
I was a calibration engineer for awhile for one of the "Big 3".. basically wrote software to automatically calibrate PCM's.
I've personally tuned thousands and thousands of vehicles worldwide and have set numerous racing records with them. Drag racing, road racing, bonneville, all kinds of stuff.
I supply products to all the main supercharger/turbocharger companies. Now I do Ford, GM, Chrysler and am working on MB, BMW, Subaru and japanese motorcycles.
I've been in so many magazines I've lost count. Been on TV many many times.
I've tuned cars for celebrities like Paul Newman, Jay Leno, and Tim Allen to name a few.
I've helped write quite a few books on engines and tuning. Actually, another guy, one other user on this board, and myself wrote a book on the Ford Taurus SHO. Maybe he'll see this thread and pop in. I was just asked to supply details for a new book on the 2005+ Ford Mustang and how the PCM works and how to tune it. Not sure when that one comes out.
Been an expert witness in many lawsuits the automtive OEM's have against each other.
The reason I bought my E500 was to use it to develop tuning products.
1st thing I am going to fix is the horrid shifting. The shift schedule in this car is just plain bad for somebody like me. It's lazy and takes to long to pick a gear.
Makign 2500 HP out of a smallblock isn't really too difficult.. just takes alot of money, boost and some common sense engine building/tuning skills. Actually, could make more but the rules we race under don't allow us to run the parts I'd like. The car I currently work on has won 3 consecutive championships and it looks good for a 4th striaght. I don't do it professionaly, it's just something to get away from my 'day job'. I attached a pic of it. Think that was racing at Joliett or maybe St. Louis. Our next race is at Martin MI (just south of Grand Rapids) if you want to check it out. July 7,8,9.
If you have somebody that needs help with thier racing program, PM me, be glad to help.
Sorry that took so much, but wanted to give you a good understanding of my background.
Oh, and none of this is taken persoanally.
Stoicheometric is the chemically correct A/F for most modern gasolines to which is about 14.64 for most modern gasolines. 14.7 is a generic avg most people use. Like I said that A/F makes the most complete burn of the fuel and is where cats are designed to work. You wouldn't want to run an engine at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at stoich as it will tend to break. Trust me.
Here is a little bit about the 'me' part in the 'we'.
I own a couple automotive engineering companies. We make tuning products and other things. I started with doing Ford cars/trucks in the 1980's and was the 1st to offer custom tuning for Ford's (I.E. you could tune your fuel and spark yourself.. unlike buying somebodies chip and praying they did a tune that was for your exact combo).
I am also an EPA subcontractor so I know engines and emissions and all that. The new light duty truck/SUV standards that all the OEM's have to meet is alot of my work. Of course the OEM's hate me now
They got really hot when we showed them a 2001 Ford Expedition with a 5.4l V8 engine that ran the same #'s as a 2007 California ULEV Honda. Right now we're doing new cold start emmisions standards and next is Tier 3 (WOT emissions).
I was a calibration engineer for awhile for one of the "Big 3".. basically wrote software to automatically calibrate PCM's.
I've personally tuned thousands and thousands of vehicles worldwide and have set numerous racing records with them. Drag racing, road racing, bonneville, all kinds of stuff.
I supply products to all the main supercharger/turbocharger companies. Now I do Ford, GM, Chrysler and am working on MB, BMW, Subaru and japanese motorcycles.
I've been in so many magazines I've lost count. Been on TV many many times.
I've tuned cars for celebrities like Paul Newman, Jay Leno, and Tim Allen to name a few.
I've helped write quite a few books on engines and tuning. Actually, another guy, one other user on this board, and myself wrote a book on the Ford Taurus SHO. Maybe he'll see this thread and pop in. I was just asked to supply details for a new book on the 2005+ Ford Mustang and how the PCM works and how to tune it. Not sure when that one comes out.
Been an expert witness in many lawsuits the automtive OEM's have against each other.
The reason I bought my E500 was to use it to develop tuning products.
1st thing I am going to fix is the horrid shifting. The shift schedule in this car is just plain bad for somebody like me. It's lazy and takes to long to pick a gear.
Makign 2500 HP out of a smallblock isn't really too difficult.. just takes alot of money, boost and some common sense engine building/tuning skills. Actually, could make more but the rules we race under don't allow us to run the parts I'd like. The car I currently work on has won 3 consecutive championships and it looks good for a 4th striaght. I don't do it professionaly, it's just something to get away from my 'day job'. I attached a pic of it. Think that was racing at Joliett or maybe St. Louis. Our next race is at Martin MI (just south of Grand Rapids) if you want to check it out. July 7,8,9.
If you have somebody that needs help with thier racing program, PM me, be glad to help.
Sorry that took so much, but wanted to give you a good understanding of my background.
Oh, and none of this is taken persoanally.
06-26-2006, 11:12 AM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by RunninRS
Running 14.7:1 @ WOT would certainly melt your engine to nothing, escpecially if it were blown. Reason why it's ideal to run a car at 14.7:1 during cruise is this is where most fuels have the best combustion and a catalyst works it's best at reducing emmisions. Since most O2 sensors are switching types, they are designed to swtich right around that A/F range in closed loop to keep the fuel system running right around 14.7:1. Very very very few vehicles run closed loop @ WOT.
Your best fuel economy is around 16:1 but you need special catalysts to run that lean AND reduce emmisions. Usually the OEM's (MB included) will run a car at WOT/high load in the 11:1 range. They do this for catalyst protection (rich = cooler exh temps.. to a point) and they really have no idea once the car is sold, how it will be driven and with what fuels. So they have to be very conservative. Whoever did his chip, obviously leaned it out to make more power. LBT on a N/A engine is around 13.2:1. Running leaner than this won't make any more power and you run the risk of engine damage. 12.5:1 is a good rule of thumb for all around safest max power. You should be able to beat on that car all day long and never have any issues. For a blown engine, you'd probably want to be richer than that as the extra fuel helps in cooling.
These numbers are for fuel tuning only.. if you put spark tuning into the mix, you must run it richer if your advancing the timing. As an example, we run our racecar at about 10.0:1 and it makes right around 2500HP on gasoline (supercharged smallblock Ford). Reason why is we are running quite a bit of timing. The HP/TQ the extra timing gives us more than makes up for the loss in HP we get from running it rich.
If the A/F numbers you got on the car were at the tailpipe and on a Dynojet, the true A/F numbers on the street are closer to 13:1. I'd say whoever did the tuning on your chip did a pretty good job. Be happy with it.
Your best fuel economy is around 16:1 but you need special catalysts to run that lean AND reduce emmisions. Usually the OEM's (MB included) will run a car at WOT/high load in the 11:1 range. They do this for catalyst protection (rich = cooler exh temps.. to a point) and they really have no idea once the car is sold, how it will be driven and with what fuels. So they have to be very conservative. Whoever did his chip, obviously leaned it out to make more power. LBT on a N/A engine is around 13.2:1. Running leaner than this won't make any more power and you run the risk of engine damage. 12.5:1 is a good rule of thumb for all around safest max power. You should be able to beat on that car all day long and never have any issues. For a blown engine, you'd probably want to be richer than that as the extra fuel helps in cooling.
These numbers are for fuel tuning only.. if you put spark tuning into the mix, you must run it richer if your advancing the timing. As an example, we run our racecar at about 10.0:1 and it makes right around 2500HP on gasoline (supercharged smallblock Ford). Reason why is we are running quite a bit of timing. The HP/TQ the extra timing gives us more than makes up for the loss in HP we get from running it rich.
If the A/F numbers you got on the car were at the tailpipe and on a Dynojet, the true A/F numbers on the street are closer to 13:1. I'd say whoever did the tuning on your chip did a pretty good job. Be happy with it.
06-26-2006, 11:14 AM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by RunninRS
Do you mean stoicheometric?
Stoicheometric is the chemically correct A/F for most modern gasolines to which is about 14.64 for most modern gasolines. 14.7 is a generic avg most people use. Like I said that A/F makes the most complete burn of the fuel and is where cats are designed to work. You wouldn't want to run an engine at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at stoich as it will tend to break. Trust me.
Here is a little bit about the 'me' part in the 'we'.
I own a couple automotive engineering companies. We make tuning products and other things. I started with doing Ford cars/trucks in the 1980's and was the 1st to offer custom tuning for Ford's (I.E. you could tune your fuel and spark yourself.. unlike buying somebodies chip and praying they did a tune that was for your exact combo).
I am also an EPA subcontractor so I know engines and emissions and all that. The new light duty truck/SUV standards that all the OEM's have to meet is alot of my work. Of course the OEM's hate me now
They got really hot when we showed them a 2001 Ford Expedition with a 5.4l V8 engine that ran the same #'s as a 2007 California ULEV Honda. Right now we're doing new cold start emmisions standards and next is Tier 3 (WOT emissions).
I was a calibration engineer for awhile for one of the "Big 3".. basically wrote software to automatically calibrate PCM's.
I've personally tuned thousands and thousands of vehicles worldwide and have set numerous racing records with them. Drag racing, road racing, bonneville, all kinds of stuff.
I supply products to all the main supercharger/turbocharger companies. Now I do Ford, GM, Chrysler and am working on MB, BMW, Subaru and japanese motorcycles.
I've been in so many magazines I've lost count. Been on TV many many times.
I've tuned cars for celebrities like Paul Newman, Jay Leno, and Tim Allen to name a few.
I've helped write quite a few books on engines and tuning. Actually, another guy, one other user on this board, and myself wrote a book on the Ford Taurus SHO. Maybe he'll see this thread and pop in. I was just asked to supply details for a new book on the 2005+ Ford Mustang and how the PCM works and how to tune it. Not sure when that one comes out.
Been an expert witness in many lawsuits the automtive OEM's have against each other.
The reason I bought my E500 was to use it to develop tuning products.
1st thing I am going to fix is the horrid shifting. The shift schedule in this car is just plain bad for somebody like me. It's lazy and takes to long to pick a gear.
Makign 2500 HP out of a smallblock isn't really too difficult.. just takes alot of money, boost and some common sense engine building/tuning skills. Actually, could make more but the rules we race under don't allow us to run the parts I'd like. The car I currently work on has won 3 consecutive championships and it looks good for a 4th striaght. I don't do it professionaly, it's just something to get away from my 'day job'. I attached a pic of it. Think that was racing at Joliett or maybe St. Louis. Our next race is at Martin MI (just south of Grand Rapids) if you want to check it out. July 7,8,9.
If you have somebody that needs help with thier racing program, PM me, be glad to help.
Sorry that took so much, but wanted to give you a good understanding of my background.
Oh, and none of this is taken persoanally.
Stoicheometric is the chemically correct A/F for most modern gasolines to which is about 14.64 for most modern gasolines. 14.7 is a generic avg most people use. Like I said that A/F makes the most complete burn of the fuel and is where cats are designed to work. You wouldn't want to run an engine at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at stoich as it will tend to break. Trust me.
Here is a little bit about the 'me' part in the 'we'.
I own a couple automotive engineering companies. We make tuning products and other things. I started with doing Ford cars/trucks in the 1980's and was the 1st to offer custom tuning for Ford's (I.E. you could tune your fuel and spark yourself.. unlike buying somebodies chip and praying they did a tune that was for your exact combo).
I am also an EPA subcontractor so I know engines and emissions and all that. The new light duty truck/SUV standards that all the OEM's have to meet is alot of my work. Of course the OEM's hate me now
They got really hot when we showed them a 2001 Ford Expedition with a 5.4l V8 engine that ran the same #'s as a 2007 California ULEV Honda. Right now we're doing new cold start emmisions standards and next is Tier 3 (WOT emissions).
I was a calibration engineer for awhile for one of the "Big 3".. basically wrote software to automatically calibrate PCM's.
I've personally tuned thousands and thousands of vehicles worldwide and have set numerous racing records with them. Drag racing, road racing, bonneville, all kinds of stuff.
I supply products to all the main supercharger/turbocharger companies. Now I do Ford, GM, Chrysler and am working on MB, BMW, Subaru and japanese motorcycles.
I've been in so many magazines I've lost count. Been on TV many many times.
I've tuned cars for celebrities like Paul Newman, Jay Leno, and Tim Allen to name a few.
I've helped write quite a few books on engines and tuning. Actually, another guy, one other user on this board, and myself wrote a book on the Ford Taurus SHO. Maybe he'll see this thread and pop in. I was just asked to supply details for a new book on the 2005+ Ford Mustang and how the PCM works and how to tune it. Not sure when that one comes out.
Been an expert witness in many lawsuits the automtive OEM's have against each other.
The reason I bought my E500 was to use it to develop tuning products.
1st thing I am going to fix is the horrid shifting. The shift schedule in this car is just plain bad for somebody like me. It's lazy and takes to long to pick a gear.
Makign 2500 HP out of a smallblock isn't really too difficult.. just takes alot of money, boost and some common sense engine building/tuning skills. Actually, could make more but the rules we race under don't allow us to run the parts I'd like. The car I currently work on has won 3 consecutive championships and it looks good for a 4th striaght. I don't do it professionaly, it's just something to get away from my 'day job'. I attached a pic of it. Think that was racing at Joliett or maybe St. Louis. Our next race is at Martin MI (just south of Grand Rapids) if you want to check it out. July 7,8,9.
If you have somebody that needs help with thier racing program, PM me, be glad to help.
Sorry that took so much, but wanted to give you a good understanding of my background.
Oh, and none of this is taken persoanally.
wow... nice resume
06-26-2006, 12:50 PM
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Donnie Wlash...
Sorry this is off topic, but I have to say great job on tuning Walshes car. I was at Maple Grove last weekend, he should have won, it was a shame he could'nt get the tranny fixed for the finals, he would have killed that guy. If you were there, I was pitted about 4 cars to your right, silver S55, with my buddies' outlaw car.
Like you said, it's not that hard to make 2500+ out of 400ci sbf.
Good luck,
Steve
Like you said, it's not that hard to make 2500+ out of 400ci sbf.
Good luck,
Steve
06-26-2006, 08:22 PM
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So you owned that car 
We were eyeballing it as I really want an AMG.. or I'm gonna make my own blower kit for this E500.
I was there, always am.. the tall skinny guy with the long hair.
As for the race.. we needed just 10 min more and we could have made it to the lanes. Probably wouldn't have gone that well though as on saturday Walsh and I tore the trans apart and found out what was exactly wrong with it. Broken reverser fork in the Lenco. DAMN hard to spot as it was on the backside and would hold together enough for it to work.. until you put a couple thousand HP through it and it would pop into neutral. It broke when the car shook the tires real bad in the semi finals.
Working on his car I don't get to see much racing besides the Pro class.. how did you guys do? It sounded like the more they tweaked with the car, the better the turbo was spooling up.
We were eyeballing it as I really want an AMG.. or I'm gonna make my own blower kit for this E500.
I was there, always am.. the tall skinny guy with the long hair.
As for the race.. we needed just 10 min more and we could have made it to the lanes. Probably wouldn't have gone that well though as on saturday Walsh and I tore the trans apart and found out what was exactly wrong with it. Broken reverser fork in the Lenco. DAMN hard to spot as it was on the backside and would hold together enough for it to work.. until you put a couple thousand HP through it and it would pop into neutral. It broke when the car shook the tires real bad in the semi finals.
Working on his car I don't get to see much racing besides the Pro class.. how did you guys do? It sounded like the more they tweaked with the car, the better the turbo was spooling up.
06-27-2006, 11:49 AM
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Mg...
I was with my buddy's Outlaw car, that was the first time they took it out, they finished it thursday night. I went 8.2 at 171, not bad foe their first time out. One of the owners of that car is a member on this board, don't know his screen name, his real name is Joe, from CT, he told me about this site over the weekend. He tried to put my car in dyno mode, because I wanted to dyno the AMG there, but he couldn't figure it out, he has an 04-05 E55. I got it into dyno mode at home, wow, it's like driving an 88 mustang with all that stuff turned off! I almost crashed!
Good luck with the car, maybe see you in Michigan!
Later,
Steve
Good luck with the car, maybe see you in Michigan!
Later,
Steve
06-27-2006, 12:41 PM
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That's good for 1st time out. Real good.
If you want to dyno your car.. we bring a dyno to every race.
I can tell them to put your AMG on it.. won't cost anything.
Wonder if my E500 has a dyno mode?
I raced a new Trailblazer SS the other night. Blew his doors off. Thing that sux is I was looking at buying one of them.. not quick enough for me. Sure looks nice though.
If you want to dyno your car.. we bring a dyno to every race.
I can tell them to put your AMG on it.. won't cost anything.
Wonder if my E500 has a dyno mode?
I raced a new Trailblazer SS the other night. Blew his doors off. Thing that sux is I was looking at buying one of them.. not quick enough for me. Sure looks nice though.
