M111 engine work
I was wondering if anyone has bored it out and if so what the results have been, also I would like to increase the rpm range of the engine, has anyone had cutom made valve springs done, and or does anyone have any suggestions of who to go to, to have this type of work done?
Thanks in advance
Diehl
You could get ltw pistons, titanium rods and tri-cut vavles, springs etc... port & polish the intake, head. Lighten and balance the crankshaft.
You could also do research into cam requirements and have a set made. I think that would be cheaper then purchasing the renntech cams.
Not the same as increasing displacement but healthy for the engine, usually produces healthy gains.
Having a specialty performance shop make these parts to spec would be cheaper then a tuners costs. Manley makes products to your specs, someone mentioned either getting or having parts priced with Crower on another board as well.
Edit- engine swaps are difficult, there are legal issues for the street. Emissions, computer, and the motor needing to be from the same year as the vehicle or newer are just some of the requirements... blah. I'd save motor swaps for 4x4s and Amer Muscle cars.
Last edited by nukblazi; May 21, 2003 at 07:07 PM.
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won't stroking the engine cause a reduction in the ability to achieve higher rpms?
A academic question. I know the M111 is not meant to be a rever, however, I have to keep the RPMs above 3K to "feel" like the motor is not bogging out.
So, will stroking the motor increase the low end torque but also, increase power across our RPM band as 6K is hardly a rever?
Other-
The renntech cams are there but, do you think they would still be the correct application if you either;
A. Increased the boost with a pulley and lightened and strengthed the internals, stroke the motor, increase flow with upgraded intake and exhaust?
B. Did a slight bore (brabus bores to 2.6 so that should be a safe bet) lightened and balanced the crank, titanium valves and rods, race tri-springs w/titanium retainers, etc. w/o increasing boost?
After doing this kind of work, do you stick to the stock redline?
After doing this kind of work, how do you determine the new redline?
Last edited by nukblazi; May 23, 2003 at 01:14 PM.
There are intake limits that determine redline in addition to valves springs etc.. The amount of airflow into the cylinders is the reason the power falls off at the high end. Not enough cfm to fill the cylinders at high rpm. Port and polish will give you a little more but not much more high end.
These aren't readily available american V8's though.
Can we get into a slightly more detailed discussion regarding the intricacies of doing this type of work? Is there anyone on this board who has done it? If there are none on this board, does anyone know of anyone so we can send them an invitation to participate?
It'd be very cool to get this Performance upgrade forum beyond bolt-ons. Plus I would really like to learn more.
Then we'd really be
!
Provide me with a fax number and I'll see that you get the motor specs from MBZ WIS system. These are full dimensions of all reciprocating parts (cam profiles, valve size, bore, stroke etc etc).
Since they're near me and I used to work there (in the shipping dept. part time but still), Manley Performance was the main place I was thinking of.
Any other recommendations? I'll call, give the specs, get pricing, the post the answers.
Anyone have any other suggestions or thoughts?
eh... stroke this...
A academic question. I know the M111 is not meant to be a rever, however, I have to keep the RPMs above 3K to "feel" like the motor is not bogging out.
NP
nukblazi-
Provide me with a fax number and I'll see that you get the motor specs from MBZ WIS system. These are full dimensions of all reciprocating parts (cam profiles, valve size, bore, stroke etc etc).
could you send me whatever you have on the stock specs of the engine? and if possible, information on the transmission (i.e. torque converter diameter, etc.)? please. fax # is
(818) 817-7731
thank you
kleemann by the way how much boost does the bigger pulley give and what is the boost on the new s/c system? also earlier I discussed increasing the rpm range and someone said stroke it and make more torque, my issue is top speed though, with a manual gear box I can only get my speedo to read 146 ish and by mb it is only suppossed to hit 142 so the only other option for higher speed is different gearing. any thoughts?
and replaced it with a turbo, this gave ton's of power in the high revs because the Eaton have such a huge drive loss and high discharge temps. in the upper range.
It could pratically be done as a home project, dismount the Eaton, build a Turbo manifold and a good diameter down pipe with steel cat, connect the turbo to the factory IC system and use the bypass system as it is, then there will be no problem with
fault codes because of missing plugs.
Maybe build in a larger IC and raise boost to 0,9 - 1,0 bar, should
see 260-300 HP, with a little ECU work.
Mosselmann in Holland can supply the turbo manifold, but his fake ECU tricks won't work.
That being said, for those of us with experience pulling motors and doing work on other vehicles, I am wondering if I can still keep this low budge by doing many of the things myself. More or less disassembly and reassembly.
As a first round, yank the motor, deliver block to have the displacement increased, maybe 2.5L. Clean up the head and intake, drop them off. Have the parts delivered, reassemble and trailer to have ECU reprogrammed/ Dyno'd/ tuned. Then, have the kleemann lightweight flywheel and pulley installed, Dyno, additional tuning?
I know I am being simplistic, but if no one tells me how wrong I am, I won't learn. What kind of crap can I expect to deal with from the ECU? Is just not worth doing it?
To keep these projects " low budget " which for sure increasing CC won't, then I heard of some people which took of the Eaton SC and replaced it with a turbo, this gave ton's of power in the high revs because the Eaton have such a huge drive loss and high discharge temps. in the upper range.
NP
for your motor, let's go back to discussing the motor. Doing this work will enable you increase the boost to higher numbers with greater performance, confidence, and reliability from your motor.We've exhausted the topics of intercooling, silicon hoses, spray kits, thermo barier tape, and airbox relocation to reduce the parasitic loss on all the boards.
Can the M111 block handle the work we've been talking about? Has anyone done this kind of work before?
Last edited by nukblazi; May 27, 2003 at 06:42 PM.
NP



