Try removing the vacuum line on the manifold for hp
#1
Try removing the vacuum line on the manifold for hp
We have been playing with the manifold on a CLK55.
It seems to us that just by removing the vacuum line going to the butterfly actuator on the front of the manifold will keep the butterflies open at all times.
This will allow the intake to use the upper runners.
On vacuum, the car uses the longer runners for torque, no vacuum uses the shorter runners for hp.
We can not test this because we already modified the manifold.
Can someone just remove their vacuum hose and plug it and see what type of difference they feel?
I am going to try it on a CLK430 this weekend.
It seems to us that just by removing the vacuum line going to the butterfly actuator on the front of the manifold will keep the butterflies open at all times.
This will allow the intake to use the upper runners.
On vacuum, the car uses the longer runners for torque, no vacuum uses the shorter runners for hp.
We can not test this because we already modified the manifold.
Can someone just remove their vacuum hose and plug it and see what type of difference they feel?
I am going to try it on a CLK430 this weekend.
#2
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AMG C43, 1999
I will give it a go on my C43.
I know from experience that if you kill off the low-mid Hp and just leave the upper range making power the car or motor will feel faster because you go through the powerband and there's no power and then all of a sudden you get a power spike that feels really strong, but it's really just the same old power that was there before.
But you never know unless you try.
Jeff
I know from experience that if you kill off the low-mid Hp and just leave the upper range making power the car or motor will feel faster because you go through the powerband and there's no power and then all of a sudden you get a power spike that feels really strong, but it's really just the same old power that was there before.
But you never know unless you try.
Jeff
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AMG C43, 1999
I unplugged the vacuum valve for the intake manifold and then plugged the vacuum lines.
Driving the car was not too much different. Low end response felt the same, maybe slightly less, but I am talking 2%-3% at most. The response to the upper rpm ranges felt a little better maybe a little more go from 3500/4000 rpm on up.
With the ESP off and rolling at 20mph. If I punch it WFO it spins the rear tires as it shifts down to 1st gear. My car is a C43 and I have 255/40/17" Kumho MX tires on a 9.5" wide rim. The fuel load was 1/4 full. 50 F, with 80% humidity.
I need to do some PDA Dyno runs to see if it picked up Hp overall. As you know 10Hp or so is very hard to feel "by seat of pants".
I will post more later if I get to do more testing.
Jeff
Driving the car was not too much different. Low end response felt the same, maybe slightly less, but I am talking 2%-3% at most. The response to the upper rpm ranges felt a little better maybe a little more go from 3500/4000 rpm on up.
With the ESP off and rolling at 20mph. If I punch it WFO it spins the rear tires as it shifts down to 1st gear. My car is a C43 and I have 255/40/17" Kumho MX tires on a 9.5" wide rim. The fuel load was 1/4 full. 50 F, with 80% humidity.
I need to do some PDA Dyno runs to see if it picked up Hp overall. As you know 10Hp or so is very hard to feel "by seat of pants".
I will post more later if I get to do more testing.
Jeff
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AMG C43, 1999
I pulled my fog lights and installed intake ducts in each opening. Then I have 3" and 4" smooth wall tubing that connects to the stock airbox. It is a ram air setup as its airtight from the fog lights to the intake manifold.
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#8
There is a vacuum actuator on the front of the intake manifold that controls the butterflys. You will see it on the driver side mounted to the front of the lower intake with two bolts. It then has an arm that connects to the lower intake.
Just remove the vacuum line going to the actuator and plug the hose.
Just remove the vacuum line going to the actuator and plug the hose.