CLK and E 55 Performance tip
05-11-2002, 08:06 AM
#27
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All of them, as much as I can...
I think you'll get measureable results...
FWIW, my first long drive with the "heat shield" yesterday surprised me in that the temp needle that normally sits just below the 100 C mark (the first one above the 80)was pegged just above the 80 mark! I don't know but I think that's significant. I realize the gauge is probably not that accurate but to show that much of a change is pretty good to me. I DID notice a smoother acceleration and cruise and a 1 MPG improvement on the computer (21 vs 20) over a tankful.
05-11-2002, 09:54 AM
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Re: I think you'll get measureable results...
Originally posted by techbike
FWIW, my first long drive with the "heat shield" yesterday surprised me in that the temp needle that normally sits just below the 100 C mark (the first one above the 80)was pegged just above the 80 mark! I don't know but I think that's significant. I realize the gauge is probably not that accurate but to show that much of a change is pretty good to me. I DID notice a smoother acceleration and cruise and a 1 MPG improvement on the computer (21 vs 20) over a tankful.
FWIW, my first long drive with the "heat shield" yesterday surprised me in that the temp needle that normally sits just below the 100 C mark (the first one above the 80)was pegged just above the 80 mark! I don't know but I think that's significant. I realize the gauge is probably not that accurate but to show that much of a change is pretty good to me. I DID notice a smoother acceleration and cruise and a 1 MPG improvement on the computer (21 vs 20) over a tankful.
05-11-2002, 10:10 AM
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I went to the track last night my times were slower than last March 22nd, in march I had close to perfect conditions, cool weather (around 58-60°F), nice cold and dry winds.
Last night it was hot, when I arrived 88°F, at last and best run 80°F, wind was low, air was humid, here are my results, I know if I had had the same weather conditions like in march I would've turned better numbers, nevertheless I was the car to beat last night, I ran and won to a 99 Z28, a 2002 Camaro SS (two times), 2001 TransAm, and a 99 TranAm shooting NOS did beat me.
Worst time 13.496 @ 104.56 (88°F 6:25 pm)
Mid time 13.423 @ 105.13 (7:10 pm)
Best time 13.333 @ 105.23 (80°F 8:29 pm)
I need opinions and more educated (if possible) thought about the times, cold weather vs hot weather.
I do belive the "heatshield" works, I'll be re-doing it a better and neater way this time.
Last night it was hot, when I arrived 88°F, at last and best run 80°F, wind was low, air was humid, here are my results, I know if I had had the same weather conditions like in march I would've turned better numbers, nevertheless I was the car to beat last night, I ran and won to a 99 Z28, a 2002 Camaro SS (two times), 2001 TransAm, and a 99 TranAm shooting NOS did beat me.
Worst time 13.496 @ 104.56 (88°F 6:25 pm)
Mid time 13.423 @ 105.13 (7:10 pm)
Best time 13.333 @ 105.23 (80°F 8:29 pm)
I need opinions and more educated (if possible) thought about the times, cold weather vs hot weather.
I do belive the "heatshield" works, I'll be re-doing it a better and neater way this time.
05-11-2002, 11:17 AM
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pocholin
A 10 degree difference in air intake temp is worth approx 3% power (you can this confirm this approximation by checking correction factor on dyno with intake temp change).
On a 3800lb car each 10 crank hp is worth approx .14sec over the 1/4 mile.
All things being equal, if you can run a 13.35 @ 80degrees ambient, you should run a 13.1, or better @ 60 degrees ambient.
A 10 degree difference in air intake temp is worth approx 3% power (you can this confirm this approximation by checking correction factor on dyno with intake temp change).
On a 3800lb car each 10 crank hp is worth approx .14sec over the 1/4 mile.
All things being equal, if you can run a 13.35 @ 80degrees ambient, you should run a 13.1, or better @ 60 degrees ambient.
05-11-2002, 11:39 AM
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So i guess this settles the puzzle (or something like that:p )
Isolating the engine heat from the airbox and pipes does work, it might be worth 10-12 hp. I say it is well worth considering I spent $ 42.95 dlls on this extra tenth in the quarter mile.
Isolating the engine heat from the airbox and pipes does work, it might be worth 10-12 hp. I say it is well worth considering I spent $ 42.95 dlls on this extra tenth in the quarter mile.
05-11-2002, 11:46 AM
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I will be perfroming mod tomorrow. Bought heat blanket today. I will do the top of the intake plenum as well. I have a relative air density meter, used for base line tuning of race two stroke motors, so I will be able to give very accurate info on temp/airdensity changes.
My next "target" are the ribs and lip on the roof of the airbox. I know i am carrying on, but i am convinced that they kill air flow. Time to pull out the trusty Dremmel.
My next "target" are the ribs and lip on the roof of the airbox. I know i am carrying on, but i am convinced that they kill air flow. Time to pull out the trusty Dremmel.
05-11-2002, 08:44 PM
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All of them, as much as I can...
I did take pictures but the cable to hook up to the computer is in the office...
...so I'll post them as soon as I get into work Monday.
Stephens, be careful about "porting and polishing" the interior of the airbox. The engineers may have designed them to do something. Case in point, on the CLK55, and maybe the E55, if you trace and look closely as to where the actual intake of those double hoses start, the "ram" effect is basically blocked. I peeked and poked in there and for the life of me, when you put the hood down, the metal piece between the parking light and the grill sits directly in front of the ram opening. Then the opening even has these walls to direct the intake straight from the front...a metal wall! So like you, I took the dremel and the drill and cut away (the plastic sidewalls). When I posted this on another forum, one of the guys there posted a picture of a stock grill of a 230 I think, that actually had a piece of plastic placed directly in front of the intake...designed from the factory. Go figure.
Stephens, be careful about "porting and polishing" the interior of the airbox. The engineers may have designed them to do something. Case in point, on the CLK55, and maybe the E55, if you trace and look closely as to where the actual intake of those double hoses start, the "ram" effect is basically blocked. I peeked and poked in there and for the life of me, when you put the hood down, the metal piece between the parking light and the grill sits directly in front of the ram opening. Then the opening even has these walls to direct the intake straight from the front...a metal wall! So like you, I took the dremel and the drill and cut away (the plastic sidewalls). When I posted this on another forum, one of the guys there posted a picture of a stock grill of a 230 I think, that actually had a piece of plastic placed directly in front of the intake...designed from the factory. Go figure.
05-11-2002, 09:10 PM
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FYI E55 cold air intake is not blocked, but I know some models are. I don't believe are done for aerodynamic reasons, just bad design. My initial thoughts were that the top of the air box was so badly designed, that it must be intentional, to create turbulance. However, basic intake design dictates that the last thing that you want, or need, is turbulent air just before the MAS. Whilst the AMG motor is a great improvement on the standard 5.0L, I have been less than impressed by some of it's design aspects.
I am no expert by any means, but having raced and developed GP bikes and GTP cars, I think I have a good basic understanding. Having a degree in applied mathematics and reading too much helps I suppose.
FYI E55 cold air intake is not blocked, but I know some models are. I don't believe are done for aerodynamic reasons, just bad design. My initial thoughts were that the top of the air box was so badly designed, that it must be intentional, to create turbulance. However, basic intake design dictates that the last thing that you want, or need, is turbulent air just before the MAS. Whilst the AMG motor is a great improvement on the standard 5.0L, I have been less than impressed by some of it's design aspects.
I am no expert by any means, but having raced and developed GP bikes and GTP cars, I think I have a good basic understanding. Having a degree in applied mathematics and reading too much helps I suppose.
Last edited by stephens; 05-11-2002 at 09:13 PM.
05-12-2002, 03:06 AM
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You are getting fantastic 1/4 times given your terminal speed. I am getting similar times but with terminal speeds of 111-113mph,
my problem is traction. What launch technique are you using?
You are getting fantastic 1/4 times given your terminal speed. I am getting similar times but with terminal speeds of 111-113mph,
my problem is traction. What launch technique are you using?
05-12-2002, 08:49 AM
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I'm holding the brake with the left foot and getting on the gas with the right, but not power braking at all.
I also am warming up my tires, I do go thru the water trap and burn a little, running 28 psi on rears and 38 psi on front tires.
Once I tried launching at 1500 rpm, it spun like nuts, so I gave up power braking.
60' times are always 2.016 to 2.058, the time I spun I did 2.257
I also am warming up my tires, I do go thru the water trap and burn a little, running 28 psi on rears and 38 psi on front tires.
Once I tried launching at 1500 rpm, it spun like nuts, so I gave up power braking.
60' times are always 2.016 to 2.058, the time I spun I did 2.257
05-12-2002, 09:28 AM
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All of them, as much as I can...
Stephens, I'm not slamm'in your opinion and I respect your credentials...
...sorry if I offended your judgement, just putting in a word of caution.
After I cut and drilled my poorly designed intake, I stood back and said " Oh ****, what if I wasn't supposed to do that?
If you DO try to port that airbox, please let us know the results...
After I cut and drilled my poorly designed intake, I stood back and said " Oh ****, what if I wasn't supposed to do that?
If you DO try to port that airbox, please let us know the results...
05-12-2002, 09:55 AM
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No offence taken. My last post did come across as a little arrogant didn't it? Sorry, I have been pondering the same thought for the past week, but decided to take the plunge. Worst case i'll need to buy another airbox which will please the missus no end. As the saying goes, no risk, no reward.
I have redesigned the airflows by putting a bevel on the bottom lip, where the airbox joins the funnel section at the rear of the assembly that attaches to the MAS, which is square standard, removed all the cross ribs, removed the square step on the top lip and separated the airbox sections for the two filters in an effort to get rid of the turbulance and smooth the flows..
Has anyone with a MKB on Renntech airbox had a look at the differences?
I'll take the car out tomorrow night with the trusty G-Tech and see if there is any measurable performance increase/decrease.
Regards
I have redesigned the airflows by putting a bevel on the bottom lip, where the airbox joins the funnel section at the rear of the assembly that attaches to the MAS, which is square standard, removed all the cross ribs, removed the square step on the top lip and separated the airbox sections for the two filters in an effort to get rid of the turbulance and smooth the flows..
Has anyone with a MKB on Renntech airbox had a look at the differences?
I'll take the car out tomorrow night with the trusty G-Tech and see if there is any measurable performance increase/decrease.
Regards
05-12-2002, 09:57 AM
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Thks for the tip pocholin. Maybe I'll be able to get some traction with the rear tyres as per your suggestion.
05-13-2002, 04:57 PM
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Wife has a bit of a hippy streak.
Yes, this is a different aluminium tape, used for welding. I opened the box up last night after 3/4 hour of "performance" testing and the inside top of the box was cool to touch.
Yes, this is a different aluminium tape, used for welding. I opened the box up last night after 3/4 hour of "performance" testing and the inside top of the box was cool to touch.
05-13-2002, 06:49 PM
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My biggest problem is traction. As soon as the car is floored anywhere under 20mph it smokes up. I have piece of sh*t Falken tyres which seem to be too hard. Car is smoother, but only getting 4.8 0-60mph times, traction is killing me. Adding to the problem I am doing the test at night when the road is cool, exacerbating the problem.
05-14-2002, 02:04 AM
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Ok guys if you know what my motor bay looks like you will know that I could have good gains from this mod, so where do I get this thermal stuff, and what is better the welders or the normal.
http://web.tampabay.rr.com/actionfit/webpage1.html
Look at the link to my webpage to see what my intake looks like.
Thanks
Subman
http://web.tampabay.rr.com/actionfit/webpage1.html
Look at the link to my webpage to see what my intake looks like.
Thanks
Subman
05-14-2002, 03:45 AM
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I am using a thermal blanket on the outside of the airbox and the aluminium tape inside. I got the welding tape from a welding supply store (naturally) and the thermal blamket from a racing specialist store, Revolution Race Gear. The manufacturer is Thermot-Tec (www.thermotec.com). I have used the blanket with heat proof contact adhesive, rather than the tape as it seems a lot more effective.
