cadillacbart

from Harbor freight. On sale for$119.00. http://http://www.harborfreight.com/...emnumber=46149
Took it home and it worked as described, right out of the box. I had to "recharge the vacuum" a couple of times to get all the oil out. I only managed to remove about 7 quarts though- this engine should hold 8.5. So I put in 7 quarts of Mobil1 0-40. I will recheck level with the dipstick in the A.M. and adjust if necessary. I hope it didn't leave 1.5 quarts in the engine.

Anyone else experience this? Did your extractor stop sucking with oil in the tube or did it come clean, like a straw when you finish a milkshake?

y2b4sure

I experienced a similar thing with my r500. I pushed the pipe down until it wouldn't go any further. I didn't push crazy hard, but I think it was as far as it would go. When it came to filling it back up, it only took 8 quarts before the oil sensor said that was enough. The r500 holds 9 quarts total.

My extractor had clean pipes at the end, (apart from the oil on the sides of the pipes).

nanoera

I use Mityvac 7201 manual pump. Have used it twice and got 8+ qt out each time.
I remember the instruction says to run engine for 5 minutes before extracting.

rgood10921

My R500 does not have a dipstick under the hood, I can only check oil via the dash screen. Kind of miss the old manual dipstick....Handy when refilling with oil and am in no shape (clean) to get in the car to check the dash.

Ted Flynn

Not to sound critical, but I'm thinking those are not the best if there is still oil left in there. It may be simplistic, but if there is dirt/debris/sludge on the bottom, not all that would be removed with the vacuum.
If the plug gets pulled, then everything comes rushing out of the bottom.
Would you agree?

avlis

Many Benz dealers use extractors as SOP.
I contend that leaving a quart of dirty synthetic oil in the pan isn't that big of a deal. So maybe the engine will need rebuilding at 200,000 miles instead of 250,000. Are you really planning on keeping the car that long?

Benzo 003

The dealer's SOP is an SOP because no jacks or lifts are required, a simple opening of the hood is all that is required. Saves time and energy and prevents possible injury and vehicle damage.
A simple trick to ensure a good clean out is to warm the engine prior and vacuum while the filler cap is open and the oil filter out.
I am an ole school guy, get underneath and drain it....guaranteed to get it all that way. Plus, a little visual inspection as well....nothing else leaking or loose or broken.
A new oil pan drain plug gasket is less than a buck compared to 120.00 oil vacuum....

nanoera

Benzo, thanks for the tip.
I think a big plus for extractor is saving some cleaning work for garage/driveway floor. I have several occasions for that. Guess my ability to predict viscous flow is not good enough.

lkchris

It is simplistic.

"Dirt/debris/sludge" went away with dino oil.

Anything else "solid" that you need to remove comes out with the filter.

u001elg

Not to beg the question, but did you change the oil filter before or after you had drawn out the oil from the sump?

I have seen several people evacuate the sump, pull out the suction tube and and then change the oil filter. The oil filter housing remains full until the o-ring on the cap is above the housing and then the dirty oil drops into the pan.

I personally crawl under each time and drop the oil plug... and have to add the full 8.5 quarts to achieve a full indication.

On the other hand, I also change oil at 7500 mile intervals (even with synthetic) because I still can't get past the fact that combustion products are getting into the oil every time the engine runs. But my longest lived vehicle was 16 years old and had 409,000 before I had to tear down the engine and fix any oil lubricated components. Most people just don't keep vehicles that long anymore...

lkchris

FWIW, the dealer tool does NOT involve shoving anything down the dipstick tube. Rather, their tool makes a vacuum seal at the top of the dipstick tube, and that plus application of vacuum is all that's required. Unless it's an AMG engine, of course.

lkchris

I think I would ignore that instruction.

You'll get the most oil in the pan where your hose goes when the engine has been off for quite some time.

Today's synthetics are plenty "thin" enough to flow at cool temperatures, and despite old mythology the things that are "suspended" in motor oil are chemically rather than physically suspended, so there's no difference and nothing comes out of suspension. Anything that might have been simply physically suspended is in the filter. If you've been using proper oil and changing it according to schedule, there's no sludge.

cadillacbart

You're right, I evacuated the oil first, then I loosened the filter after and let it drain, then went back for more out of the crankcase.