dewdaltz

replaced my 06`R350 to an AMG style lower bumper. Wifey hit a small animal on the highway broke the right lower fogs and neighboring parts. Anyway, if I chose to put two foglights on each side (like the Brabus one) and I have already the existing/functioning harness, can I still use them for both fogs on each. How does these things works. And same with the LEDs can I use the same harness too. NEED your bright ideas. Thanks, guys.

shobbs666

From past experience the computer monitors voltage draw. If you use the same fog lights I know you can add another one to each side without a problem if you use LED blubs. Just splice the wires to the exsisting wires that go to the Fog Lights. The computer wouldn’t even notice the extra voltage draw and you wouldn’t get an error message. I bought the LED Blubs for the fog lights on ebay. Type in (R350 fog light LED lights)

AsianR350

You meant "current draw". the computer detects low current (power draw).
Voltage is still 12V no matter it is the led bulbs or halogen.

shobbs666

You should know. You helped me out on the same problem with mine. I hooked up the same side view red LEDS on top of the rear lights like you did. Mine haven’t burnt out yet, I’m keeping my fingers crossed.

dewdaltz

Actually, I do have this DRL LED on hand. And just getting more info and options on how and where to hook it up. Really appreciate your input, guys.

AsianR350

To prevent the LED strip short it out on yours when doing the car wash, I suggest that you apply both ends of the LEds with clear adhesive or RTV.(black should be okay)
Note: I did apply RTV both ends on my rear yellow LED turn signal strips / front white LEd strips and they are good so far.

dewdaltz

Guys, can you point to me where is the IGNITION POWER CONROLLED SOURCE. Because that is where the instruction stated so that i could have it similar to OEM in function. And the other one, I have to connect it to the parking lights to have it dim when the headlights comes on.

shobbs666

Connecting to the parking lights has easy access. You can see them and feel the wires from the front. To remove them you have to push the side marker lights rear plastic clip forward and then out. You can feel the clip with your hand; I used a screwdriver to pull the clip at the rear of the light forward while pushing it out. It sounds more compacted than it is. After you splice into the wires simply snap the marker light back in. AsianR350 may know what wire is the IGNITION POWER CONROLLED SOURCE and it’s color with location.

dewdaltz

Thanks Shobbs. I know the parking lights because I put a black vinyl on it to make it straight black all the way. ONLY this "IGNITION POWER CONTROLLED SOURCE" that I am still looking. Maybe AsianR350 could help me on this. Once I can figure it out that thing then I might start doing it on the weekend. Again, thanks for your highly appreciated input on this matter.

AsianR350

I do not know where is the Ignition power controlled source. (I have DVD service manual but need to look up).

I suggest that you use the power from jump terminals which are located on the left of engine comparment.

Use a side marker as a signal source and jumper positive terminal (+) as the main voltage supply that is located on the left of engine compartment.
Note: when you turn on exterior lights, the LED lights will turn on.

You need a 4 pins relay (10-20AMP), a (3)open spade terminals to connect to jump terminals and chassis ground.

Pin 30 connect to jump positive (+) terminal. (install fuse in line 10 AMP).
Pin 85 connect to chassis ground or Jump (-) terminal.
Pin 86 connect to positive (+) wire from side marker.
Pin 87 connect to positive (+) wire of LED lights (negative (-) of LED lights go to chassis ground.

LED lights will be connected paralell which has 1(+) positvewire to relay pin 87 and 1(-) negative wire to chassis groung.

supernsx

Dewdaltz, interesting project and please post some pictures when you are done, thanks.

dewdaltz

This is instruction from the TM Tuning Tech Support that he emailed me.

"
You would only need to hook in power to a 12v ignition controlled power source, pref. the fuse panel.
Ground and then the trigger wire to the power line of the bumper parking lights (if you want auto dim).
No reprogramming is necessary for any car install, no coding, no canbus killers, no errors .. nothing to worry about.

Please response if you know where the "IGNITION CONTROLLED POWER SOURCE" or fuse panel.

AsianR350

So the kit comes with the relay (trigger wire). There wiring instruction is exactly as I described above except connect to ignition instead of the battery and trigger wire is to the bumper parking light instead of to the side marker light.

I have looked up the fuse diagram and it shows fuse #14 (7.5AMP)- "Ignition Lock"". It located on the left side panel of the passenger side when open the door.

There is no description of "IGNITION CONTROLLED POWER SOURCE" on the diagram. So I think fuse 14 is correct one.
You can connect the voltmeter to the fuse #14 and ground to the chassis.
Turn on the engine to verify the voltage is there.

dewdaltz

Yeah, I saw that fuse panel there everytime I change my cabin air filter. I will check on that fuse #14. And for the parking light connection, I dont have to splice to both parking lights, right? One will do for the whole DRL kit.

AsianR350

Yes, you need only one because the fog lights are connected in parallel and only one relay is used for both lights.

camaro23608

hey guy i saw post with someone with a r class put on some 2011 c class led fog but i cant find that post.. i would like to know if slice my fog light connector n replace with the one from the c class would i get any error message

AsianR350

Yes, you will get an error message. Install a load resistor will solve that problem.