Need Some Info - R350/R500 please
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Joined: Jan 2013
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R350
Need Some Info - R350/R500 please
Hello. Need some help if anyone can spare the time.
Looking at purchasing my first MB and want to ask some questions. Buying a R350 or R500 - 2006'ish with 130,000Km:
Can anyone help with:
1) How do these perform after 130,000km?
2) Is there anything specific I should look for before purchasing it?
3) When does the car really start to break-down?
4) What milestones do I need to really consider?
5) R350 or R500?
Thanks
Looking at purchasing my first MB and want to ask some questions. Buying a R350 or R500 - 2006'ish with 130,000Km:
Can anyone help with:
1) How do these perform after 130,000km?
2) Is there anything specific I should look for before purchasing it?
3) When does the car really start to break-down?
4) What milestones do I need to really consider?
5) R350 or R500?
Thanks
Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 168
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From: Connecticut
R500 + SLK55 AMG
I recently went through the same process you're going through. Here's my findings complete with my bias.
R350 vs R500? Go with R500. Why?
Common Failure Modes?
Not bad really. That's why I picked up a low mileage CPO R500 that was meticulously maintained.
Maintenance can be ridiculous at MB dealership. I've seen claims of $480 for an oil change. But oil changes are very easy to do yourself on the R series. I plan to use a good independent repair shop once my CPO warranty is gone.
R350 vs R500? Go with R500. Why?
- 5.0L engine is a better match for the R Class weight in peak torque and the overall torque curve.
- 3.5L engine in early years (pre-09) had a very well documented valve train problem that is being pursued as a class action lawsuit. These engines fail early and the repairs are huge, $8,000.
- My R500 gets 17 mpg in city / highway commuting and 22 mpg on the highway. Not near enough penalty to consider the 3.5L
Common Failure Modes?
- Airmatic bladders - $1K - $2K per wheel. Excellent non-OEM solution from Arnott at $350 per wheel. Like a set of tires.
- Airmatic pump - another $2K
- Rear hatch - lock mechanism fails to engage. cheap fix kit.
- Sunroof - seems to strip the drive mechanism. another $2K.
- Power Steering Pump - early production seemed to fail often. Cost?
- Transmission - common problem with hard shifting in lower gears. Cost ?
- 3.5L engine - defective valve train design. Cost $8,000.
- Rear tail light ground - another design defect. no ground wire. depends on housing contact with body to complete circuit. fix kit available.
Not bad really. That's why I picked up a low mileage CPO R500 that was meticulously maintained.
Maintenance can be ridiculous at MB dealership. I've seen claims of $480 for an oil change. But oil changes are very easy to do yourself on the R series. I plan to use a good independent repair shop once my CPO warranty is gone.
Last edited by Spud_Racer; Jan 22, 2013 at 10:58 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 28
From: Seattle, WA
99 ML430, 01 CLK55, 07 R63, 15 E63 Wagon
To add to Spud_Racer's post:
Common issue with all R Classes is the transmission valve body and cost to repair is ~$2,700.
Other issues I've read about but haven't experienced first hand are the pano roof (makes lot of noise) and front differential ~$2,000 repair.
Something else to consider is the AMG if it's in your price range. These have depreciated so much that it's not much higher than that of a used 500, interior materials are better (much higher grade leather), and many of them are fully equipped. Where you'll have a hard time finding a well optioned 350 or 500. Along the same reasoning as Spud_Racer, I don't think the gas penalty is that bad compared to the 500. I usually average 15mpg if I'm light on the throttle with mixed freeway and city. Full city with traffic is maybe closer to 12-13 while highway can go up to 18mpg. So in regards to that, it's all relative. My friend with his R350 and a led foot also only got 12mpg but if you're easy on it you can get much more.
Common issue with all R Classes is the transmission valve body and cost to repair is ~$2,700.
Other issues I've read about but haven't experienced first hand are the pano roof (makes lot of noise) and front differential ~$2,000 repair.
Something else to consider is the AMG if it's in your price range. These have depreciated so much that it's not much higher than that of a used 500, interior materials are better (much higher grade leather), and many of them are fully equipped. Where you'll have a hard time finding a well optioned 350 or 500. Along the same reasoning as Spud_Racer, I don't think the gas penalty is that bad compared to the 500. I usually average 15mpg if I'm light on the throttle with mixed freeway and city. Full city with traffic is maybe closer to 12-13 while highway can go up to 18mpg. So in regards to that, it's all relative. My friend with his R350 and a led foot also only got 12mpg but if you're easy on it you can get much more.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
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2006 r350 & 2005 clk320
Yikes!! You guys are scaring me I was thinking of keeping my 06 R350 past warranty but now maybe not.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 24
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CLS55, a rare R-class
I've read almost every single thread in this forum in the last 5 weeks, and am closing the deal on an R. If all goes well, I should be receiving it in another 3 weeks (shipped).
I passed on the Extended Warranty after discussing with my mechanic. He might be biased because with this particular warranty provider he may not get paid until 30 days later (with cheque). I hope I made the right decision.
I will post details and pics once I receive it.
Can't wait.
I passed on the Extended Warranty after discussing with my mechanic. He might be biased because with this particular warranty provider he may not get paid until 30 days later (with cheque). I hope I made the right decision.
I will post details and pics once I receive it.
Can't wait.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 45
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From: Canada
2012 R350 BT - Acura TL SH AWD 2011 - Mustang GT 1994
I have a 2006 R500 with about 56K miles. I bought it nearly 3 years ago from an independant dealer who advised me (correctly) to take out a third party insurance/warranty which I did for 4 years. Although the warranty was expensive, it has paid for its self which says something about the failures and repair costs.
Fortunately I have a local independant shop that is very knowledgeable and much less costly than the approved dealership.
I live in Canada and the warranty is from Lubrico in London Ontario. I would certainly go there again.
Any failure with an MB or any other make for that matter, is that items are generally modular so replacement is costly - for example the door lock actuator at $900. The MB is more repairable due to the better engineering, but some of the component failures are disappointing.
I have two big frustrations about the car:
Plugged air intake valve cost me over $3,000 to change the computers - the Class action does not apply in Canada and MB ignored me.
The steering moan continues despite changing the pump and rack assembly (under warranty).
I use the car for travel between Canada and Ft Myers. it is a great car for travelling long distances even when fully loaded, and I would be not sure of how to replace it if and when the time comes. It delivers just over 20mpg at 70+ mph etc.
I suggect that you invest in the warranty - the dealer/mechanic will be paid either way.
P
Fortunately I have a local independant shop that is very knowledgeable and much less costly than the approved dealership.
I live in Canada and the warranty is from Lubrico in London Ontario. I would certainly go there again.
Any failure with an MB or any other make for that matter, is that items are generally modular so replacement is costly - for example the door lock actuator at $900. The MB is more repairable due to the better engineering, but some of the component failures are disappointing.
I have two big frustrations about the car:
Plugged air intake valve cost me over $3,000 to change the computers - the Class action does not apply in Canada and MB ignored me.
The steering moan continues despite changing the pump and rack assembly (under warranty).
I use the car for travel between Canada and Ft Myers. it is a great car for travelling long distances even when fully loaded, and I would be not sure of how to replace it if and when the time comes. It delivers just over 20mpg at 70+ mph etc.
I suggect that you invest in the warranty - the dealer/mechanic will be paid either way.
P
