06-04-2015, 07:42 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Mercedes-Benz C-Class: How to Replace Brake pads/rotors
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Replacing front brake pads and rotors on R350...also my non OEM pad/rotor selection
03-02-2016, 06:33 PM
#51
So I am finally getting to the brakes. Bought them, rotors and pads all around and 2 pad sensor wires. The fronts came with a bag with the clips and new plastic (or rubber didnt open it) plugs but the rears are just the pads.
I do not want to get to working and discover I was missing something. In that case I guess I would try and reuse the old stuff.
Also the screw holding the front rotors on is what? I assume star but what size? I have many sizes of allen keys but limited star bits or keys.
As always thanks in advance.
I do not want to get to working and discover I was missing something. In that case I guess I would try and reuse the old stuff.
Also the screw holding the front rotors on is what? I assume star but what size? I have many sizes of allen keys but limited star bits or keys.
As always thanks in advance.
03-03-2016, 09:04 PM
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
That screw should be an allen, unless it's changed. Hit it with some penetrating oil first, put an allen socket on and give it a good whack with a hammer. Otherwise it won't break loose and it strips very easily. It's worthwhile buying some spares in case you have to drill it out.
03-03-2016, 09:36 PM
#53
Super Member
That screw should be an allen, unless it's changed. Hit it with some penetrating oil first, put an allen socket on and give it a good whack with a hammer. Otherwise it won't break loose and it strips very easily. It's worthwhile buying some spares in case you have to drill it out.
11-07-2016, 01:49 PM
#56
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just did this job (front and rears) on my 2008 R350 4-Matic. Thanks to the OP for the assist.
A few additional tips:
Using something like PB Blaster on the caliper bolts and the Torx-head bolt really makes a difference. I didn't use it on the fronts, but ended up using some on the rears. The rears were way easier to remove.
The 21MM socket seemed a tad bit loose on the front caliper bolts. A 13/16" socket actually fit perfectly with no wiggle, so that's what I used. The rear caliper bolts are smaller. I used an 18MM on them.
If you have an impact wrench with a quality T30 Torx bit, removing the small Torx head bolt takes 2 seconds. Mine were true Torx head, not Allen head. I do not recommend using an Allen key on a Torx head.
A pair of pliers is helpful in removing the clips that hold the brake pads in place. If you pull sideways, instead of toward you, they'll pop right out. Also, take a photo of those clips BEFORE removing them, so you'll know how the outside "feet" are supposed to sit.
I used the dimpled and slotted rotors from BrakePerformance.com. From what I can tell, they start as plain Centric rotors, then BP does options such as cross drilling, dimpling, slotting, and/or zinc coating.
I opted for the dimpled & slotted with the zinc coating, which helps keep the non-contact surfaces from rusting. Once the pads scrape off the zinc from the rotor surface, it makes a nice look with the black dimples and slots, too.
For the fronts I used: #RB-35089
For the rears I used: #RB-35092
Total price for the rotors (shipped) was $422.
Check your rear rotors to make sure which style you have (mine were vented). I called the Stealership with my VIN to get the OEM part number for the rears, then matched them to the aftermarket ones.
Also, I bought new OEM sensors from my dealer for about $7 each. Both my sensors were installed on the passenger side. But the Beck Arnley 084-1527 Disc Brake Pad Electronic Wear Sensor will also work ($7 on Amazon).
For pads, I bought Wagner ThermoQuiet Semi-Metallics on Amazon. MX1123 on front ($42/set), and MX1122 on the rear ($36/set). They came with new clips.
Oh, and you WILL need a large rubber mallet or sledge hammer to get the old rotors off. 3-4 whacks seemed to do the trick.
A few additional tips:
Using something like PB Blaster on the caliper bolts and the Torx-head bolt really makes a difference. I didn't use it on the fronts, but ended up using some on the rears. The rears were way easier to remove.
The 21MM socket seemed a tad bit loose on the front caliper bolts. A 13/16" socket actually fit perfectly with no wiggle, so that's what I used. The rear caliper bolts are smaller. I used an 18MM on them.
If you have an impact wrench with a quality T30 Torx bit, removing the small Torx head bolt takes 2 seconds. Mine were true Torx head, not Allen head. I do not recommend using an Allen key on a Torx head.
A pair of pliers is helpful in removing the clips that hold the brake pads in place. If you pull sideways, instead of toward you, they'll pop right out. Also, take a photo of those clips BEFORE removing them, so you'll know how the outside "feet" are supposed to sit.
I used the dimpled and slotted rotors from BrakePerformance.com. From what I can tell, they start as plain Centric rotors, then BP does options such as cross drilling, dimpling, slotting, and/or zinc coating.
I opted for the dimpled & slotted with the zinc coating, which helps keep the non-contact surfaces from rusting. Once the pads scrape off the zinc from the rotor surface, it makes a nice look with the black dimples and slots, too.
For the fronts I used: #RB-35089
For the rears I used: #RB-35092
Total price for the rotors (shipped) was $422.
Check your rear rotors to make sure which style you have (mine were vented). I called the Stealership with my VIN to get the OEM part number for the rears, then matched them to the aftermarket ones.
Also, I bought new OEM sensors from my dealer for about $7 each. Both my sensors were installed on the passenger side. But the Beck Arnley 084-1527 Disc Brake Pad Electronic Wear Sensor will also work ($7 on Amazon).
For pads, I bought Wagner ThermoQuiet Semi-Metallics on Amazon. MX1123 on front ($42/set), and MX1122 on the rear ($36/set). They came with new clips.
Oh, and you WILL need a large rubber mallet or sledge hammer to get the old rotors off. 3-4 whacks seemed to do the trick.
Last edited by Steve Jenkins; 11-07-2016 at 02:01 PM.
01-25-2017, 08:15 PM
#58
The rear brakes have previously replaced
I suspect pads only replaced
Ordered Bosch Quiet Cast 330 rotors
Ordered Wagner Thermoquiet pads
188 Amazon for front pads and rotors
Sensors havent tripped yet so Im leaving those alone
As a side note my 05 Passat TDI is still on original front pads
and rotors at 218k miles.
I suspect pads only replaced
Ordered Bosch Quiet Cast 330 rotors
Ordered Wagner Thermoquiet pads
188 Amazon for front pads and rotors
Sensors havent tripped yet so Im leaving those alone
As a side note my 05 Passat TDI is still on original front pads
and rotors at 218k miles.
Last edited by tru1man; 01-25-2017 at 08:18 PM.
06-08-2017, 05:39 AM
#62
MBWorld Fanatic!
Oh sorry. Those are actually called Torx. I don't know off hand but I'll probably be doing my front brakes in the next couple of weeks, so I can tell you then
