I posted this question in the back end of another thread but want to make sure i can figure it out before I start my brakes.

I have read various thread with brakes. I have a 2008 r350 gas with 330 front and solid rear.

I have many sizes of allen keys and metric and english sockets. I am not sure what I have for torx or star whichever its called.

Can someone give me a breakdown of the sizes and tools needed for this? Including the set screw in the front rotor.

I will also be opening the brake line to allow the fluid to drain out and replace the fluid (not sure if thats bleeding or flushing but thats what i will do). What tool for that too?

I just dont want to jack it up, pull the wheel and not have the right tool. I am buying the star/torx stuff as I go knowing that mb likes it.

 

also, what extra items should I use. grease, loc-tite and such?

 

More answers above. Beyond them you will want some brake grease for the part of the pad that slides on the rotor bracket. I do not use that crazy orange glue that everyone else uses. Brake grease just carefully applied at the slide points eliminates all chatter for me. Also, be sure to use that grease on the slide bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper frame. The caliper needs to float freely on those.

It was a simple job, once I had the freakin' 9MM allen.

 

thanks for the advise jeff. I have bled the brakes on every car or truck i have done the brakes on. I might have sounded confused because I didnt want to get into the debate as to what is flushing and what is bleeding. to me they are the same thing, but flushing requires more fluid. Same steps. I was just asking if the release for the fluid required a special tool. its usually a small closed end wrench.

 

If I recall, the bleeder screw requires an 8mm wrench... but I could be wrong.. I do know for sure it is a standard size since I had it in my tool box... LOL

down the road you should look at one of these.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/collec...r-bleeder-kits

It is $49.50 on Amazon... I used it on the R to flush the brake fluid... It was cake... the hardest thing was jacking up the car and pulling wheels... It works at a low enough pressure that you don't have to worry about blowing a seal but also don't have to screw around with those crappy vacuum pump bleeders either.

 

At some point and the oil one too.

 

So... not that I thought differently but jeff ur were not wrong. So I thought what you were saying is that if you went to get the single 9mm allen wrench it would be hard. I knew I had several allen sets, socket and wrench. Including my fathers old tool box that has several sets that were never opened. So I go to get started and set one, no 9. Set 2 no 9. Unopened sets with lists of what they have inside. Nope not there either. Oreilys, auto zone, advanced auto... no, no no. Thankfully 2 stores down from advance auto, was a harbor freight. They had a wrench set that ironically enough can count to 10.

Also the brake fluid at mb was only 16.

Fronts are done gonna do the rear in a bit, but so far a very easy task. The only issue, other then the 9mm, is the rotor removal. I hate the first time I do things in the sense that I am not sure what to expect. So the set screw comes out with my impact drill. First time I wasnt aware I needed to remove the caliper holder. The other metal thing held on with 21mm bolts. Which was only a minor inconvenience that I dont remember being documented before. That wasnt the issue. If the set screw is there only to help get the rotor lines up before install then great, but after I removed the screw I figured tap, tap and bam the rotor would drop off. Well tap tap tap tap baangbang bang and still on tight. Spray with liquid wrench and wait before ta
Tap, bang bang and nothing. More spray and more tap and still nothing. Am I missing something, forget something, is it seized or melted together? Well after a while I gues the liquid wrench worked because tap and poof. Thats when I couldnt get it off without taking the other bracket.

So front driver took 6 hours and the left 30 minutes, but that included the bleeding and tire removal and replacing, jacking and such.

 

Remember, on the rears you're going to have to back-off the parking brake adjuster.

 

A TORX set is a prerequisite to any service on a Benz. Look under the hood and see how many torx bolts there are in various places. I gather you also have a torque wrench?
Also if you remove the calipers, you need new self locking bolts from your dealer.... to do this by the book... Yet I have been changing rotors for years on my MBs and never replaced them. No calipers falling off yet.

 

I have a few torx. And plenty of allen... and a 9mm too.