First time Mercedes owner
02-29-2016, 08:53 PM
#1
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Volvo s40
First time Mercedes owner
Hi everyone, I am new here. I have been on the forum for a few days just browsing around. I am in the markey for a "new" used car. My options have been either the Volvo XC90 or now the 2006 R class.
What are the pros and cons of buying a used Mercedes w/ 100000 miles.
Should I even consider it?
What should i be looking at when I go to look at car? Any advice really I would appreciate.
I am a mom of 3, safety and roomy is a must and I love the third row seating. Car will be used for local commute about 5-10 daily.
What are the pros and cons of buying a used Mercedes w/ 100000 miles.
Should I even consider it?
What should i be looking at when I go to look at car? Any advice really I would appreciate.
I am a mom of 3, safety and roomy is a must and I love the third row seating. Car will be used for local commute about 5-10 daily.
03-01-2016, 06:31 AM
#2
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Hi everyone, I am new here. I have been on the forum for a few days just browsing around. I am in the markey for a "new" used car. My options have been either the Volvo XC90 or now the 2006 R class.
What are the pros and cons of buying a used Mercedes w/ 100000 miles.
Should I even consider it?
What should i be looking at when I go to look at car? Any advice really I would appreciate.
I am a mom of 3, safety and roomy is a must and I love the third row seating. Car will be used for local commute about 5-10 daily.
What are the pros and cons of buying a used Mercedes w/ 100000 miles.
Should I even consider it?
What should i be looking at when I go to look at car? Any advice really I would appreciate.
I am a mom of 3, safety and roomy is a must and I love the third row seating. Car will be used for local commute about 5-10 daily.
03-01-2016, 08:33 AM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Most of the pre-2008 models were the 6-passenger versions. 2008 and newer are mostly 7 passenger. Check the vehicle history on the pre-2008, because the balance shaft may have been repaired. It would have been performed at a dealer so there will be a record of it.
My sister had an XC90, and it just seemed to fall apart. I wouldn't recommend it.
I like the R-class, but I think you will find a number of small annoying things that will go wrong with it when you're looking at older ones, so it helps to have someone handy around to fix them for you, assuming of course, that you're not a handy person yourself.
Safety-wise Benz's are the best.
Watch out for rust. And I would recommend diligent oil sprays to prevent it.
My sister had an XC90, and it just seemed to fall apart. I wouldn't recommend it.
I like the R-class, but I think you will find a number of small annoying things that will go wrong with it when you're looking at older ones, so it helps to have someone handy around to fix them for you, assuming of course, that you're not a handy person yourself.
Safety-wise Benz's are the best.
Watch out for rust. And I would recommend diligent oil sprays to prevent it.
03-01-2016, 09:07 AM
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Most of the pre-2008 models were the 6-passenger versions. 2008 and newer are mostly 7 passenger. Check the vehicle history on the pre-2008, because the balance shaft may have been repaired. It would have been performed at a dealer so there will be a record of it.
My sister had an XC90, and it just seemed to fall apart. I wouldn't recommend it.
I like the R-class, but I think you will find a number of small annoying things that will go wrong with it when you're looking at older ones, so it helps to have someone handy around to fix them for you, assuming of course, that you're not a handy person yourself.
Safety-wise Benz's are the best.
Watch out for rust. And I would recommend diligent oil sprays to prevent it.
My sister had an XC90, and it just seemed to fall apart. I wouldn't recommend it.
I like the R-class, but I think you will find a number of small annoying things that will go wrong with it when you're looking at older ones, so it helps to have someone handy around to fix them for you, assuming of course, that you're not a handy person yourself.
Safety-wise Benz's are the best.
Watch out for rust. And I would recommend diligent oil sprays to prevent it.
Also I read that if it has any significant probkems they would have arised well before the 100000 mile point.
I expect to do normal maintenance and take care of it very well, I know it is more expensive then an average US made car but is it worth it to even get into it?
Last edited by Bnb52799; 03-01-2016 at 09:10 AM.
03-01-2016, 09:11 AM
#5
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Get the VIN and take it to a dealer and request a service history. It may not have affected all vehicles, but it's certainly not something you want to risk getting stuck with.
03-01-2016, 09:40 AM
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Awesome! Do they usually charge for report? And Can I take actual car to MB service and ask them to do a through check?
03-01-2016, 09:50 AM
#7
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That depends on the dealer. They may provide it for free in order to secure future business.
I would ask the seller if they will let you take it in for an inspection. If they have nothing to hide, why would they refuse. The MB dealer would definitely charge you for an inspection. I would bank on $300, and you'd need to have a pre-arranged appointment.
I would ask the seller if they will let you take it in for an inspection. If they have nothing to hide, why would they refuse. The MB dealer would definitely charge you for an inspection. I would bank on $300, and you'd need to have a pre-arranged appointment.
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03-01-2016, 09:53 AM
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That depends on the dealer. They may provide it for free in order to secure future business.
I would ask the seller if they will let you take it in for an inspection. If they have nothing to hide, why would they refuse. The MB dealer would definitely charge you for an inspection. I would bank on $300, and you'd need to have a pre-arranged appointment.
I would ask the seller if they will let you take it in for an inspection. If they have nothing to hide, why would they refuse. The MB dealer would definitely charge you for an inspection. I would bank on $300, and you'd need to have a pre-arranged appointment.
03-01-2016, 10:11 AM
#9
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Look around the rear wheel well for rust on the body panel, especially where the plastic bumper cover meets the steel body panel. Also rust on the bottom of the doors. This is where is always starts, and once it starts it's hard to stop.
Drive it down a bumpy road to feel for sideways wobble when driving in a straight line, that's an indication that the rear suspension needs work.
If it has airmatic (has a button on the dash that always you to adjust the suspension's ride height), walk away. On an older vehicle, this will cost you thousands in repairs and maintenance.
Look for one side of the vehicle sitting lower than the other side. This is an indication of a rear airbag leak. The vehicle will have air-ride suspension on the back even if it doesn't have airmatic.
check that all the windows, sunroof, automatic trunk lift gate, power seat (including power headrests), power retractable mirrors, etc, are operating properly.
Ask the seller to have the engine cold when you start is up the first time (i.e., not already started and warmed up). If there is a check engine light, it is more likely to show up on a cold start, plus, any hydraulic issues will be more apparent (i.e. transmission or power steering). This is true for any vehicle. Transmission should shift smoothly from cold, but might have a slightly rough shift if accelerating hard.
I assume this is a gasoline model and not a diesel.
Drive it down a bumpy road to feel for sideways wobble when driving in a straight line, that's an indication that the rear suspension needs work.
If it has airmatic (has a button on the dash that always you to adjust the suspension's ride height), walk away. On an older vehicle, this will cost you thousands in repairs and maintenance.
Look for one side of the vehicle sitting lower than the other side. This is an indication of a rear airbag leak. The vehicle will have air-ride suspension on the back even if it doesn't have airmatic.
check that all the windows, sunroof, automatic trunk lift gate, power seat (including power headrests), power retractable mirrors, etc, are operating properly.
Ask the seller to have the engine cold when you start is up the first time (i.e., not already started and warmed up). If there is a check engine light, it is more likely to show up on a cold start, plus, any hydraulic issues will be more apparent (i.e. transmission or power steering). This is true for any vehicle. Transmission should shift smoothly from cold, but might have a slightly rough shift if accelerating hard.
I assume this is a gasoline model and not a diesel.
03-01-2016, 11:22 AM
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Look around the rear wheel well for rust on the body panel, especially where the plastic bumper cover meets the steel body panel. Also rust on the bottom of the doors. This is where is always starts, and once it starts it's hard to stop.
Drive it down a bumpy road to feel for sideways wobble when driving in a straight line, that's an indication that the rear suspension needs work.
If it has airmatic (has a button on the dash that always you to adjust the suspension's ride height), walk away. On an older vehicle, this will cost you thousands in repairs and maintenance.
Look for one side of the vehicle sitting lower than the other side. This is an indication of a rear airbag leak. The vehicle will have air-ride suspension on the back even if it doesn't have airmatic.
check that all the windows, sunroof, automatic trunk lift gate, power seat (including power headrests), power retractable mirrors, etc, are operating properly.
Ask the seller to have the engine cold when you start is up the first time (i.e., not already started and warmed up). If there is a check engine light, it is more likely to show up on a cold start, plus, any hydraulic issues will be more apparent (i.e. transmission or power steering). This is true for any vehicle. Transmission should shift smoothly from cold, but might have a slightly rough shift if accelerating hard.
I assume this is a gasoline model and not a diesel.
Drive it down a bumpy road to feel for sideways wobble when driving in a straight line, that's an indication that the rear suspension needs work.
If it has airmatic (has a button on the dash that always you to adjust the suspension's ride height), walk away. On an older vehicle, this will cost you thousands in repairs and maintenance.
Look for one side of the vehicle sitting lower than the other side. This is an indication of a rear airbag leak. The vehicle will have air-ride suspension on the back even if it doesn't have airmatic.
check that all the windows, sunroof, automatic trunk lift gate, power seat (including power headrests), power retractable mirrors, etc, are operating properly.
Ask the seller to have the engine cold when you start is up the first time (i.e., not already started and warmed up). If there is a check engine light, it is more likely to show up on a cold start, plus, any hydraulic issues will be more apparent (i.e. transmission or power steering). This is true for any vehicle. Transmission should shift smoothly from cold, but might have a slightly rough shift if accelerating hard.
I assume this is a gasoline model and not a diesel.
03-01-2016, 01:29 PM
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03-01-2016, 09:58 PM
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I actually did not buy, unfortunately there was a leak. Power steering fluid. I was very disappointed. Fell inlove with the car otherwise. I'm searching and hope I find somethinf. Thank you guys for your quick responses though I took everything inconsideration.
03-02-2016, 04:45 AM
#13
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Good.... just a simple question... why not look for something like a Honda Odyssey or Pilot? Why a Volvo or Mercedes R?
I ask because if it wasn't for me working on my wife's R myself the operating costs would have been astronomical. And ours was great with very little that ever went wrong from 72k miles to when we just traded it in at 105k after 3.5 years.
Honestly, the one you looked at probably needed either the the PS tank seal or a new pump. Pump replacement at the dealer probably close to $1,000. I did ours 6 months ago and it was around $250 in parts and a few hours of my time in the garage.
Again, not saying that they are bad, they aren't. In fact I would say they are better than many give them credit for. But don't want you going into it only to freak out when you have to fix it.
I ask because if it wasn't for me working on my wife's R myself the operating costs would have been astronomical. And ours was great with very little that ever went wrong from 72k miles to when we just traded it in at 105k after 3.5 years.
Honestly, the one you looked at probably needed either the the PS tank seal or a new pump. Pump replacement at the dealer probably close to $1,000. I did ours 6 months ago and it was around $250 in parts and a few hours of my time in the garage.
Again, not saying that they are bad, they aren't. In fact I would say they are better than many give them credit for. But don't want you going into it only to freak out when you have to fix it.
03-02-2016, 11:36 AM
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2006 R350
03-02-2016, 11:08 PM
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2011 C300 4matic, 2015 Porsche Macan S, 2006 R500 (sold)
Hi everyone, I am new here. I have been on the forum for a few days just browsing around. I am in the markey for a "new" used car. My options have been either the Volvo XC90 or now the 2006 R class.
What are the pros and cons of buying a used Mercedes w/ 100000 miles.
Should I even consider it?
What should i be looking at when I go to look at car? Any advice really I would appreciate.
I am a mom of 3, safety and roomy is a must and I love the third row seating. Car will be used for local commute about 5-10 daily.
What are the pros and cons of buying a used Mercedes w/ 100000 miles.
Should I even consider it?
What should i be looking at when I go to look at car? Any advice really I would appreciate.
I am a mom of 3, safety and roomy is a must and I love the third row seating. Car will be used for local commute about 5-10 daily.
https://mbworld.org/forums/extended-...lass-w251.html
03-03-2016, 09:11 AM
#18
working on a year with my r350 2008 and other then an oil change and now the brakes it has been a dream. got it with 98k and because its our only car (I have a take home vehicle from work) we have put almost 16k on it and its been great. I love driving it on the open road. It holds my family and gear wonderfully. I can even carry me and 5 scouts when we need it.
Mercedes, being a luxury car as well with other luxury cars, bank on you having enough money to take it to the stealership to fix and replace everything. I am shocked that they would charge 1700-2000 for a brake job. or 130 for an oil change. But something is only worth what people will pay for it.
I find this to be true for any dealership. They all charge much higher rates for everything because they can. The difference is that Mercedes, maybe more then most, has the world convinced they are the only ones that know what they are doing.
My r may fall apart tomorrow. Or may last for the next 2-3 years like I hope. I bet you could line up people with severe issues in 2010 plus.
One other note btw. If you would have done some research most on here would have suggested you stay away from the full aromatic. BUT understand that all airbag shocks fail. no matter the make. air finds a way out. in other shocks the failure isnt as dramatic and people drive around for years on bad shocks, which do more damage on the tires and handling, stopping safety so in a way air shock help keep your luxury car preforming at its best.
Mercedes, being a luxury car as well with other luxury cars, bank on you having enough money to take it to the stealership to fix and replace everything. I am shocked that they would charge 1700-2000 for a brake job. or 130 for an oil change. But something is only worth what people will pay for it.
I find this to be true for any dealership. They all charge much higher rates for everything because they can. The difference is that Mercedes, maybe more then most, has the world convinced they are the only ones that know what they are doing.
My r may fall apart tomorrow. Or may last for the next 2-3 years like I hope. I bet you could line up people with severe issues in 2010 plus.
One other note btw. If you would have done some research most on here would have suggested you stay away from the full aromatic. BUT understand that all airbag shocks fail. no matter the make. air finds a way out. in other shocks the failure isnt as dramatic and people drive around for years on bad shocks, which do more damage on the tires and handling, stopping safety so in a way air shock help keep your luxury car preforming at its best.
03-03-2016, 09:21 AM
#19
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03-03-2016, 01:44 PM
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2011 C300 4matic, 2015 Porsche Macan S, 2006 R500 (sold)
MB updated some parts for the newer model (crane sensor, rear light assembly, Hyprophneumat, Conductor Plate, and so on). I know because mine was replaced when they failed.
03-03-2016, 02:22 PM
#21
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I think there were a number of components which were upgraded and improved over the years, either through minor redesigns or tighter specs from suppliers. This is quite normal for a manufacturer to fix a lot of problems each year during a model run. This is certainly obvious with the engine and the balance shaft sprocket issue.
I have the 2010 and don't have much experience with the other years, but believe 2009 was the year for a number of improvements. I don't recall where I heard it. I think it may have been mentioned in an earlier thread. I believe the Command system was much improved during the 2008 year, but it may have been 2009. Wasn't 2012 the year of the facelift with external style changes?
I have the 2010 and don't have much experience with the other years, but believe 2009 was the year for a number of improvements. I don't recall where I heard it. I think it may have been mentioned in an earlier thread. I believe the Command system was much improved during the 2008 year, but it may have been 2009. Wasn't 2012 the year of the facelift with external style changes?
03-03-2016, 02:40 PM
#22
Member
I think there were a number of components which were upgraded and improved over the years, either through minor redesigns or tighter specs from suppliers. This is quite normal for a manufacturer to fix a lot of problems each year during a model run. This is certainly obvious with the engine and the balance shaft sprocket issue.
I have the 2010 and don't have much experience with the other years, but believe 2009 was the year for a number of improvements. I don't recall where I heard it. I think it may have been mentioned in an earlier thread. I believe the Command system was much improved during the 2008 year, but it may have been 2009. Wasn't 2012 the year of the facelift with external style changes?
I have the 2010 and don't have much experience with the other years, but believe 2009 was the year for a number of improvements. I don't recall where I heard it. I think it may have been mentioned in an earlier thread. I believe the Command system was much improved during the 2008 year, but it may have been 2009. Wasn't 2012 the year of the facelift with external style changes?
but... the main point was what you just said.. just like any other car they made improvements and minor component changes throughout the life of the Platform. (these same changes were applied to the ML and GL as well)
Only I did it laced with sarcasm... oops...
03-03-2016, 06:35 PM
#23
Super Member
I must eat some crow.... I was incorrect.. the facelift was introduced for 2011, not 2010 that I previously thought.
but... the main point was what you just said.. just like any other car they made improvements and minor component changes throughout the life of the Platform. (these same changes were applied to the ML and GL as well)
Only I did it laced with sarcasm... oops...
but... the main point was what you just said.. just like any other car they made improvements and minor component changes throughout the life of the Platform. (these same changes were applied to the ML and GL as well)
Only I did it laced with sarcasm... oops...
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w251...-recall-2.html
Last edited by AsianR350; 03-03-2016 at 06:40 PM.
03-07-2016, 11:03 AM
#24
Good thread. I bought my first Mercedes late Jan. 2016. It's an 06 R500 with 118K for a great price from a private party. The previous owner took great care of the vehicle with majority of repairs were done at stealership. Transmission replaced at 60k, cooling system overhaul 5 yrs ago, sunroof motor replaced, and rear SAM replaced because of incorrect wire routing for tow hitch.
There were issues still on the vehicle when I bought it. Intermittent starter no cranking, valve cover leaked, and a couple of buttons on master control module on driver doors were broke, it was still a good buy. I got all those items fixed doing them myself because I like to work on my own vehicles and make sure they're done correctly for the most part. And also flush trans. fluid and new filter.
Then over a week ago the cooling fan exploded and stranded my wife and daughter. Luckily they made it to a convenient store and not too far away. I had it towed home and in the process of replacing radiator and fan assembly.
Overall it's still a great vehicle to drive. Quiet, smooth, pretty power to weight ratio and handling.
I have an 02 BMW 540I/6 and I keep it maintained as well. So, if you do your own repairs, they're great vehicle to drive and work on.
There were issues still on the vehicle when I bought it. Intermittent starter no cranking, valve cover leaked, and a couple of buttons on master control module on driver doors were broke, it was still a good buy. I got all those items fixed doing them myself because I like to work on my own vehicles and make sure they're done correctly for the most part. And also flush trans. fluid and new filter.
Then over a week ago the cooling fan exploded and stranded my wife and daughter. Luckily they made it to a convenient store and not too far away. I had it towed home and in the process of replacing radiator and fan assembly.
Overall it's still a great vehicle to drive. Quiet, smooth, pretty power to weight ratio and handling.
I have an 02 BMW 540I/6 and I keep it maintained as well. So, if you do your own repairs, they're great vehicle to drive and work on.
