R-Class (W251) Produced 2006-2013: R320CDI, R350, R420CDI, R500

R320 it cranks and only start for few seconds

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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 01:52 AM
  #1  
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R320 it cranks and only start for few seconds

hi fellow MB friends.. I am new in here and need to pick your brain to solve this issue i am having,,,

I have a W251 2006 R320 cdi and having an issue for not starting, it cranks then it will start for a 1-2 secs then it will dies but then you can always start again and again but only 1-2 second enigine runs...

I have sent the Hi-pump to get it checked plus replaced the lo-fuel pump (in the tank) i have replaced fuel filter and the Glow Plugs even the module because it was showing that it was faulty but then still the same issue...

i am guessing it has a low pressure of fuel, the reason i said that... I loosen up the high pipe coming from the hi-pump and the fuel there was dribbling, i have checked the fuel pressure between fuel tank to fuel filter and showing 55-60psi and the i checked the between fuel filter to hi-pump and showing 55-60psi also..

i ran out of ideas please help, if you have same issues and sort out the problem... thank you!
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Plutoe
What is the rail pressure and have you scanned the car for faults?
thanks for the reply...

No faulty codes at all....

what is the normal fuel rail pressure?

Last edited by glenn_a; Mar 15, 2017 at 07:27 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 08:03 PM
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No Faulty codes showing on our scanner...

RAIL PRESSURE (Bar) 4
CURRENT INJECTED QUANTITY (mm^ 3/Hub) 23.9
PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE (%) 11.0
QUANTITY CONTROL VALVE (5) 0.0


when ignition ON:

RAIL PRESSURE (Bar) 13
CURRENT INJECTED QUANTITY (mm^ 3/Hub) 23.8
PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE (%) 29.7
QUANTITY CONTROL VALVE (5) 40.6


when cranking position:

RAIL PRESSURE (Bar) 193
CURRENT INJECTED QUANTITY (mm^ 3/Hub) 23.8
PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE (%) 36.2
QUANTITY CONTROL VALVE (5) 57.6


when its on IDLE: 700rpm

RAIL PRESSURE (Bar) 297 - 321
CURRENT INJECTED QUANTITY (mm^ 3/Hub) 15.6 - 16.1
PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE (%) 15.9 - 16.2
QUANTITY CONTROL VALVE (5) 27.4 - 27.8


revving 1607rpm:


RAIL PRESSURE (Bar) 653
CURRENT INJECTED QUANTITY (mm^ 3/Hub) 23.5
PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE (%) 23.4
QUANTITY CONTROL VALVE (5) 33.0

the car been sitting for 4days now and just started today and the car runs a bit longer than usuall, it idles but cannot accelerate hard. only max to accelerate 1600rpm but after that it fluctuate and cannot go any higher but then soon it warmed up after 3mins on idle then it cuts off and back from the beggining ( it starts and run for few seconds then stalls again)
thank you!

Last edited by glenn_a; Mar 15, 2017 at 09:20 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 06:09 PM
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any ideas guys....?
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 08:48 AM
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R320 SWB
Just curious did you solve this?
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 09:54 AM
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08 R350
Could it be an immobilizer issue?
Hadn't read you last comment about running in limp mode, so likely not immobilizer problem.

Last edited by tru1man; Apr 26, 2017 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 07:37 PM
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yes! we found the problem and it was so simple and i gone through the basic fuel issue but then it was the throttle body.

we found that the throttle not fully open so its starving for air and I thought it was starving for fuel, sorry guys for late update but its all good now.. thanks!

we replace it for a new ones then no problem at all
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 12:32 AM
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2002 C240 (W203) 2007 R500 (W251)
cheers on the update it's nice to have an answer for anyone that might run into the similar issue down the road !
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 01:23 AM
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no worries...
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Old Nov 23, 2019 | 10:10 AM
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R320 cdi, cls500
Greetings all R320 fans.

I have a 2008 R320 that has been intermittently been running with a significant lack of power occasionally. Pulled the fuel hose off the filter this morning after a no start condition to find no fuel in the line. So now the questions. I see that there are 2 fuel pumps in the tank and am now curious of how or what I should be looking for. The car has 250 K on it and am looking for clarification on a few things. I know I need to check the relay so that is a given but am curious about if there is a sensor on the supply side that would prevent the pumps from running? Secondly, assuming that the two pumps in the tank are shot, where can I get the best prices on them and is there a tech bulletin out there that shows the right way to remove and replace for a DIY guy? Thanking all you experts in advance!
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