ghat

hi

I am still a novice for all thing MB, but I have decided my next purchase will be a MB. I wanted to get the R-Class however MB stopped making these :-(

I am still open for a 2010+ R class used...

Can anyone here tell me
1. How many miles does the R-class go to without major issues. (as in a V6+ toyota/lexus will easily go to 200K, etc)
2. How is the overall maintenance of the car ? How much does one spend for its "functional upkeep" (not looks etc)
3. Any other general comments ?

Any other places I can read about the R-Class in detail especially as its over 4 years since the last model was out here in the US.
Ghat

taranch

Hey,

Owned our 2009 R320 Blutec from new. 1st week of ownership, the heater fan stopped working. A month later, the passenger side mirror fell out. After that, it was just the oil changes and adblue fill ups. Until around the 60000km mark. It started throwing CEL lights. Always bad O2 sensors. After the 80000km mark. Had the following done:
1) turbo
2) adblue tank heater
3) rear suspension bags
4) leaking head gasket

after the 120000km mark:
1) adblue tank heater again
2) rear suspension bags again and servo that controls the inflation/deflation
3) Side view mirror motor
4) trunk mechanism
5) rack & pinion

after 200000km mark:
1) driver side window switches
2) compressor and accessory pulleys
3) transfer case
4) driver side door lock
5) Electric engine cooling fan
6) Batteries (main and auxiliary)

It's a FANTASTIC people hauler, but has extremely high maintenance costs. Also, the depreciation on these is ridiculous. I don't want to get rid of it, because it still looks like a million bucks inside and out, but...

Cheers

ghat

Hmm..

they still sell this one in China!!
http://www.mercedes-benz.com.cn/cont...***/_w251.html

R350NYC

We inherited a 2008 R-class from my in laws who replaced it with another car. It had 58k miles on it and was always garage kept. It now has 60k miles on it and here is my experience so far:

Service : Expensive. The dealer was quoting me 770+tax for it (forgot which one but it wasn't anything major). I did it myself for a lot less. It included an oil change with M1 European formula synthetic, an oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, tire rotation, and brake fluid exchange (every 2y). It cost me about 200 for everything (of which 65 was for brake fluid exchange labor which i had done at pep boys using MB fluid). The rest I did myself and it was straight forward.

I had to replace the auxiliary battery which cost about 20 bucks plus an hour of my time, so not bad.
My SRS light is on which states that there is a malfunction for the front left. I bought a diagnostics tool for 115 on ebay and it states that the seat belt buckle is bad, so i will have to replace that. The part is about 200 bucks and I will install it myself. Apparently, lots of MB's have this issue.

I had a small oil leak which is common on this car and is due to the camshaft caps and PCV valve. I got the OEM parts off ebay for about 70 bucks and installed it myself. Its pretty straight forward if you have some basic mechanical skills. Dealer wanted 200 to look at it + cost of repairs.

The transmission service on this car is expensive (6-700 bucks at the dealer), and is not really an easy DIY based on what I've read. I've held off on it for now, but might do it in the future if we keep the car.

My driver's side view mirror motor stopped working. Its not cheap to fix, but i can still move the mirror with my hand, so i'm just going to leave it as is.

My sound stopped working on the radio. After a few weeks, I discovered it was due to a blown fuse for the tele-aid module.

Based on some of the other research I've done, here are some common problems with the R350:
1) Rear air bags eventually leak (and fronts for those who have the airmatic front suspension). They can be bought for about 100 bucks each for the rear and installed at home if you have a jack and like to do this kind of work. My R class is fine so far (doesn't sag), but there was an error code that said that the car is taking longer to level or something like that when I scanned the car. The compressor can also go bad, but this can be fixed at home for a couple hundred bucks.
2) The Harmon Kardon amplifier stops working for some people and requires a repair that costs 4-500 bucks, or getting a used one for the same price.
3) The oil leak which I mentioned above.
4) The power steering reservoir leaks due to a worn o-ring and requires some work to replace it. This can be a DIY project.
5) Pre 2008 models have some wear issues with the balance shaft teeth wearing which is a super expensive repair - avoid these models. Since your'e looking at a 2010+, you should be fine.
6) Some people have had to replace their intake manifold because there is a part which is made of cheap plastic that can break. MB doesn't sell that part separately, so you have to buy the whole part if you want an OEM replacement, or some are selling a steel replacement part for it. I haven't done much research on this but just be aware that it can be an issue.
7) Some have had to replace their mass air flow sensor (youtube diy available)
8) Earlier models had a problem with the transmission which required some servicing that wasn't cheap. I think it is pre-2008 models.

This is what i can think of off the top of my head. You can find videos on a lot of this on youtube if you want to research further.

As for my general opinions of this car, if i had to buy this car used, I wouldn't. I've spent a lot of time in the last 2k miles fixing things and worrying about big repairs that are inherent in this model. I get about 14-15 mpg in mixed driving which is pretty poor. Our car is a 2008 but is missing a lot of features that were found in cheaper cars back then (bluetooth audio, etc). We had an MDX for a while and loved that car. In your case though, you want a Mercedes, so in the MB world there are not many 7 passenger options other than the R class and the GLS. I think if you get a 2010+, you'll be better off. Good luck.

SndsoftheSbrbs

I have owned a number of Mercedes-Benzes, and I currently own three. One of these is a 2011 R350 BlueTEC (Diesel). Unfortunately, this has been the most problematic Mercedes I have ever encountered. However, these problems are mostly unique to the BlueTEC diesel powertrain that is found across the Mercedes-Benz lineup.

1. My R350 BlueTEC is currently at 85k miles. I took delivery of the vehicle at 78k miles. I was unlucky in that I have been the victim of fraud at the hands of a rival luxury franchise dealership who sold me this car. The condition of the vehicle was totally misrepresented. I was presented with a clean inspection report from their dealership, while the damning inspection report by a Mercedes-Benz dealership was withheld from me. I mention this because I do not want you to think that my situation is completely typical. I am currently in a drawn-out battle with the dealership I purchased from to come to a mutual resolution.

Shortly after I took delivery of the vehicle, a host of problems presented themselves. The two NOX sensors were faulty resulting in a CEL. The camshaft position sensor was also faulty. I had the three of those replaced at a cost of $1300 just two weeks into ownership. My factory-trained mechanic identified a stretched timing chain, an engine oil cooler leak, and a problem with one of the compartments on the center console (will not stay closed). I later learned that these items were also identified by the Mercedes-Benz dealership that performed a pre-delivery inspection. At 85k miles, one of the rear television monitors was determined to be faulty (displays white screen).

The following is the latest list of recommended repairs:

Replace R/R TV screen - $1422
Replace timing chain and tensioner - $2173
Replace oil cooler seals - $2346

I have stopped driving the vehicle completely after I discovered a substantial puddle of oil on my garage floor last week. My CEL is also illuminated, and I have codes P20BE (apparently indicative of a failing AdBlue heater) and the camshaft position sensor again.

2. Maintenance on Mercedes-Benzes is universally expensive. I would budget approximately $1-2k per year for maintenance and repairs. Some chassis and engines are less expensive and more reliable than others. My 2005 E500 4Matic (W211) has never required more than $1500 in maintenance and repairs in a single year. That vehicle has been in my household from 12 miles on the odometer, and currently stands at about 83k miles. My 2010 GL450 (X164) has been more expensive to maintain. It recently passed 80k miles, a very troublesome mileage milestone, and required approximately $8000 in maintenance and repairs in 2017. Maintenance items like replacement of the air suspension were approximately $4000, tires $1500, and other routine items (batteries, belts, etc.) comprising the balance. In years past, the GL450 has only cost about $1-2k per year for maintenance and repairs.

3. My Mercedes-Benz factory-trained mechanic owns and drives a 2011 R350 4Matic (gasoline). He is of the view that that car is as reliable as the BlueTEC models are unreliable. He thinks that the OM642 platform has been very poorly applied to the Mercedes-Benz passenger car lineup. He does not recommend that people purchase the BlueTEC models, while he highly recommends the gasoline models.

Given my experience, I would probably recommend purchasing a gas model. I would even consider purchasing an older R-Class, especially the R500. The M113 5.0 is an indestructible powertrain. It guzzles gas, but it is fun to drive and very reliable. It is a classic high-displacement Mercedes V8. However, I would also not rule out purchasing a BlueTEC. Some of those with the late-2012 R350 BlueTECs and other later OM642 powered passenger cars have reported greater reliability. My understanding is that the oil cooler seals were changed to a more durable rubber compound after Mercedes-Benz acknowledged internally that there were problems with the earlier builds. I find Mercedes-Benz diesels incredibly fun to drive, and I enjoy the much less frequent trips to the gas station. If you can find an R350 BlueTEC with complete service records with oil changes more frequent than the manufacturer recommendation, and proof that the oil cooler seals were replaced with the later rubber compound, I might jump at the opportunity.

CedarMtn

I have a 2011 BlueTec which I purchased as a demo with about 10K kms on the dial. Currently has over 170K kms. First off my concise review is that I've absolutely loved this car.... when it wasn't in the shop. Fortunately, I purchased a MB extended warranty which really bailed me out of a lot of expensive repairs. Right off the bat - I had a minor problem which the selling dealer refused to fix under warranty - so I switched dealers. Note: Regular maintenance (at the dealer) is horrendously expensive - but because of my history of warranty repairs - I let my dealer handle everything including routine maintenance.

My list of warranty repairs is almost unbelievable but off the top of my head, here it is (and I'm likely missing some items):

Adblue heater failure code. Dealer replaced the heater and tank, then the wiring harness and electronics before discovering it was simply a bad wire connection throwing the error code. Repaired and haven't had a problem since. (total of 4 separate multi-day shop visits).
"Oil leak" which required removal of transmission and torque converter (and about a week in the shop). Still drips occasionally and may be related to transmission problems which recurred later.
Pano roof motor replacement (plastic gears stripped). (my pano roof is now grinding a little when opening - so suspect that this is going to go in the summer sometime).
Rear suspension: Airbags and sensors replaced (this happened just as my extended warranty went to powertrain only - so dealer gave me a 1/2 price on the bags and covered the rest).
Rear hatch: lock mechanism replaced (hatch would not latch or lock properly - have since discovered that it's the outside handle that get's stuck sometimes. It still happens but now I just close manually and unjam the handle).
Transmission and various other problems: Car went into limp home mode. About a month prior - the transmission would sometimes jerk when decelerating. MB rebuilt transmission and months later the problem recurred. MB then replaced the transmission, torque converter as well as replaced the turbo charger, intake manifold and various other parts. My car was in shop for almost three weeks (the shop foreman drove the car for a few days after which they replaced the turbo and intake manifold). Car has run pretty well since but notice that the transmission will still jerk occasionally when coasting.
My most recent minor problem (and done over several visits and past my warranty expiration at 160K) has been the washer fluid tank. My tank leaked and when MB "fixed it" it became worse (originally just leaked a little - MB replaced the motor and the problem became worse - plus I had to pay for the motor since it wasn't a warranty item and it was several hundred dollars just for the part). Finally got to a point where it wouldn't hold more than about a pint of fluid before leaking. MB couldn't have made this bottle more complicated or harder to access for repair - which seems typical of this car. But my dealer finally fixed it (at their cost).

Current: I have a possible suspension problem - a knocking/rattling sound which only happens when it's really cold outside (like this past week). Nobody has been able to determine the source though and it's happened since the car was a year old. So I continue to live with it. I've also noticed electrical problems - kept getting a seatbelt warning so disabled the pre-tensioning and problem disappeared. Power windows are REALLY slow lately too. Satellite radio loses pre-sets regularly. Door sensors for keyless entry are inconsistent. I sometimes get a key warning while the car is running. Weird problems which usually indicate something is about to go.

My car's now out of warranty so I am a little worried about future repairs (knock on wood but it's just completed it's longest period without a multi-day repair). I do have to say that my current dealer was fantastic and always went to bat for me to get the repairs covered under my extended warranty as well as fix recurring problems at their cost. I also have to say that despite this being the most unreliable vehicle I have ever owned - I really like it. Every time it's in the shop for an extended period I think of selling it - but when I get it back, I always change my mind. There is no other car out there that could be a replacement. Eg: I actually need the third row every now and then. But a typical SUV (which I've owned before) is too tall to fit in my garage with a roof box - the R-Class is low enough that it's not a problem. I also really like driving this car - it handles well and is probably the best highway car I've ever owned. I've taken it on extended road trips and everybody has been comfortable and we can pack it up and it still gets great mileage. Great in winter. I also tow my boat every now and then and it's a really great tow vehicle. So I have no idea what I will buy as my next car - looking at the E-class wagon (or the C-class wagon) as well as the Volvo V90 but then I lose the third row. I might have to go back to the traditional SUV route.

In short: Love the car but would never recommend it unless you can work out an extended warranty at time of purchase.

R350NYC

I'm quite amazed at how unreliable these cars yet MB charges so much for them when new. Its not just the R class that has problems but seems like its broadly across the board. Older Mercedes seem to be more reliable it seems. If I ever find myself in another MB, it'll be through a lease.

SndsoftheSbrbs

My W211, 2005 E500 4Matic Sedan, is one of the greatest and most reliable cars that I have ever owned. It is extremely dependable and has never left me stranded, even as the car has aged and surpassed 80k miles. My X164, 2010 GL450, has also been reliable. The only major unexpected fault has been the failure of the 6-disc CD player that a dealer told me was catastrophic. Like most Mercedes-Benz SUVs with Airmatic suspensions, the struts have required replacement at roughly 80k miles. In 2017, approximately $8000 was spent on maintenance and repairs over 15k miles. My previous Mercedes-Benz vehicles have been universally pleasant experiences, but I did not keep any of them beyond 40k miles. The W251, 2011 R350 BlueTEC, has been by far the most problematic car I have ever owned.

Timpala

Made in Indiana!
https://www.autotrader.com/car-news/...duction-268377

efzauner

It may be hit or mis
I have had a 2008 R320 diesel and had many problems with the diesel and other accessories. Stay away from the diesel as repairs are expensive.. Oil cooler leaks., O2 sensor and particulate filter, Glow plugs. Rear Sams draining battery.. Rear hatch problems. And of course rear air bags. ( you can fix those yourself with better afermarket parts) I kept it from 75K km to 210k Km

I replaced it with a 2011 R250 Gas with 40k km and now have 110k Km. It has been trouble free mechanically. I had a right mirror lights failed (*warranty) and my blind spot radar is not working (non warranty, not fixing it for $1K)

Maintenance wise it is quite easy. You can do pretty much all normal maintenance and brake work yourself with the exception of transmission oil changes.

I love the car and too bad they dont make it. I am trying to keep mine as long as possible.

I also have a 2005 C240 and it has been a great car to drive. and very reliable. Have had it since 2005. 75Kkm it now has 235K km. my kids learning to drive on it.

i suggest finding a low mileage soccer mom car that may just be coming off of 4 year lease.

ekstepj

I have had a 2006 R350 (V6 petrol/gasoline) for 18 months now.
Bought it with 88K on the clock.
I did my homework and knew that the following gives trouble later:
1. Gearbox shifters (electronic sensors stop detecting what gear it is in - get's stuck in 1 or 2). Replaced for circa $850
2. Air suspension pump (list to one side). Replaced for circa $400
3. Rear lifter on door. No problems.

I have it serviced by an independent. Do NOT take older MB's to a dealer (you can almost see the $$ signs in their eyes). If you can't find an independent - don't buy.

Odometer reads 105k now.
I have put on tyres, replaced a battery, filled her up with gas.

I have replaced the radio (after 12 years uneconomical/nonsensical to repair) with an aftermarket unit.

Would I buy another? When this one gives up - definitely. She pulls like a V8, drives like a sedan and can load an EXTRAORDINARY amount of stuff when you fold the seats down (transported twin bed, headboard, nightstand, desk, chair in 1 load). I took a pair of occasional chairs back to the shop where I bought them from (had them delivered) and the person who took the cart with them on suddenly stopped and asked what car I drive - because he couldn't think of any that could hold both.
Mine is a 6 seater - later models are what I would call 6.5 seaters (2.5 across middle row).

DansGL

As an owner of both an R and a GL, I can tell you that the R is a wonderful driving machine. It is a bit of a step down from the GL in options and materials though.
To be honest though the 164/251 is not quite as much fun to own as it is to drive.
If you are comparing against Toyota in terms of reliability, get a Toyota any day of the week.
If this is your first Merc, get a start system or a very good diagnostic system or at least icarsfot980
Good luck and happy mercing!

SndsoftheSbrbs

My R350 BlueTEC has the Premium 2 package, which includes everything in the more common Premium 1 package plus the harman/kardon sound system and KEYLESS-GO. It also has the Lighting Package, Panorama Sunroof, Blind Spot Assist, PARKTRONIC system, heated front and rear seats, rear center console, heated steering wheel, 3-zone climate control, Rear Seat Entertainment system, and adaptive suspension. I'd say it is better optioned than my GL450.

DansGL

Maybe our R's are different. Mine has the same options except the ADS. Sorry to have offended you. My comments are taken from my experiences alone

SndsoftheSbrbs

You didn't offend me. I just wanted to point out that there are some R-Classes that are very well equipped. I agree with you that many aren't. For example, I have seen R-Classes without heated seats, which is something that nearly all modern Mercedes-Benzes have had.

gforaker

The modern German Diesel engine is an engineering marvel, but is expensive to maintain and does not last as long as the ones in the past. I'd stay away from them in the US.

I have a 2010 gas engine model and am very happy with it. I bought it as certified car with 7,500 mile on it and now have over 130,000. For the past 2 years it has been serviced at a local indy I trust. He is still expensive, but follows all MB recommendations exactly. No real problems other than the expected rear gas shocks around 100k miles. The rear hatch opens fine, but does not sometimes close with the button. That is not much of a problem because I have already put my load into the trunk and my arms are then free to pull down the hatch. I may get around to fixing it someday. I love the car and plan on keeping it for a very long time.

ketanpunde

Hope you were aware of the emissions performance warranty and the components covered for 8yrs/130,000 kms. That would have covered the Turbo for sure but not he Adblue heater.

gforaker

Just a quick update. I am now at about 166k miles. The only real repair since then was the driver window control panel which cost $350. Also there were tires and replacing original battery, but I don't consider that repair, but planned service.

lkchris

Yeah, I had a ‘79 300D ... about 60hp from 3.0l. I think the later turbos might have been 90 hp. My GL has OM642 with 200+ hp from same 3.0 l (180 Cu in)

Most don’t understand that diesels are only as reliable as they’re designed to be. An aluminum car diesel isn’t going to last as long as a cast iron truck diesel. Before trucks were all diesel, there were super heavy duty gas engines that could do 400k miles—International, GMC, etc. These are essentially too heavy and too expensive to put in cars.

The OM642 is the engine in all the Sprinters, not as highly tuned.

It appears to me most of the reliability issues with 164/251 OM642 are with the later versions with SCR, that is, the exhaust fluid system. Maybe not as well designed as could have been. Mercedes now owns Detroit Diesel and all those are now 4-cycle and fitted with exhaust fluid injection.

The new 2020 GLS450 has a new 3.0 l inline 6 with 362 hp. Turbos, 48 volts, a lot of effort directed towards fuel economy ... still doesn’t rate as good epa highway mileage as my ‘07 diesel.

Lioninstreet

Its been said already to be super careful about buying the OM642 version. Others have mentioned the fit and finish on the '06-'07 models suffered and consequently have nuisance issues. '08-'09's were improved, but the '10-'12's are all figured out. Mine is a '12 gas. I got it at auction 2 years ago & initially changed both rear airbags, a couple of Parktronic sensors, and the plastic switch for the Pano roof. Other than typical maintenance, I've only had to spend $$ for gas ever since.

Below are typical issues.

Major mechanical issues for the earlier models:
'06-'07 Tranny Conductor Plate issue (may have been warrantied)
Mid '08 & prior - M273 6 cyl balance shaft issue (may have been warrantied)
Mid '08 & prior - M273 6 cyl intake manifold flap valve fails (may have been warrantied)

Common failure points for all years:
Pano Roof Control Switch plastic breaks
Pano Roof can leak & motor can fail if track & gaskets have not been maintained
Power Steering reservoir o-ring can fail causing leaks
Seat belt buckle can fail causing SRS light to activate
Airbag suspension bags seem to last 60k-80k
AC compressor seems to last 100k-120k in hotter climates
Airmatic compressor can fail - Varies
Rear Hatch latch can fail- Varies
Parktronic Sensors can fail - Varies

Outside of the above, there is just general maintenance. A guide for that can be found on this thread.

Both of the gas motors from mid '08 and up are brutally reliable. Prior to that just make sure both the warranty issues on the motor and the trans conductor plate has bee replaced. To me these potential issues were a small price to pay considering the upside of the vehicle. IMHO, nothing on the road compares.

ginniccole

Hi my name is ginger I have a 2008 R 350. My car is okay, but my lights brake either or tail are driving me nuts. Has anyone noticed any issues with brake or tail lights? Brake sensor keeps coming on and i've had it replaced twice. Also my battery is new and that light keeps popping on. Any ideas if this 2008 model has a auxiliary battery, and if so where would it be located? Also if this model does have an aux battery, would it cause all of these malfunctions?

TIA

gforaker

Yes, your car has an auxiliary battery. It is used only to be able to shift the transmission into neutral if the main battery is dead. I doubt it is the cause of your brake problem, but stranger things have happened. It sounds like you need to find a good Mercedes local repair garage. Most cities have a place that specializes in German cars. They have the test equipment, manuals, and experience to solve most problems. Sometimes as well as a dealer, but at a better price. I am concerned that you replaced the brake sensor twice and they aren't willing to look further for you.

ginniccole

Really? Wow thanks for the information! I really appreciate it. What do you think is causing the brake and tail lights to malfunction since we’ve replaced the bulbs? This sounds expensive ☹️😩

gforaker

OK, I'll expand a bit on what I said earlier. There are two paths for you. One, if you are a decent DIY mechanic, then buy a code reader, a STAR repair manual and get plenty of good tools and a place to work on your car. Second is find a good local German Car repair shop and trust it to them. I used to work on my cars when cars were simpler. I now don't have the place, tools, or patience, but my past experience helps me diagnose and talk to the mechanics.

I really have no idea about your brake lights. It may be simple or complicated. These cars are that way. There is no such thing a cheap used German car, but they are wonderful when running well and maintained properly.

Ridgeway25

Had the same issues with rear bulbs constantly registering on dash to be replaced. The issue is the terminals on the bulb mount that screws into the light assembly. it had the tendency to arc and left traces on the mount. if you place a new bulb into the socket, when you screw it in, back off an 1/8 turn. it will now have a clean space to make contact. my issues never returned.