2008 R350 ANY MAJOR ISSUES ? INPUTS PLS
04-11-2018, 09:30 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
2008 R350 ANY MAJOR ISSUES ? INPUTS PLS
Hey Guys ? just got back on another Mercedes after wrecking my E320 6 years ago...Got me a "2008" R350 ..Any imputs Guys ????? Senior members...what do you think ? Should i keep or Sell it back and get me a 2009+ Model better or above ?
04-13-2018, 12:38 PM
#2
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2017
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R350
I'm not an expert but I've read 2008 and up we're better years for this vehicle. Some complained of issues, but it wasn't (from what I've read in these forums) nothing like the previous years. I have an 2006 and I read nothing but horror stories
04-13-2018, 01:49 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
yea me too" ..2008 and below was what i heard had the most issues...but what about the Camshaft and airbag suspensions im hearing about these r350 ? does 2008 have the Clear or am i still in danger for having these issues ? any other senior members input would be appreciated...
04-19-2018, 03:55 PM
#4
Member
All years have the rear air shocks go around 100k miles. Replace with arnott units and they have a lifetime warranty. The balance shaft issue (not camshaft) was solved during the 2008 or 2009 year with most of those, but not all being OK. You can get the engine number and check to see if it falls in the problem range. Not all of those in the range will have the problem. Best estimate I have heard from a tech was that maybe 10% or fewer. Still, I would not buy a car in that range unless it had already been repaired. That is only for the gas engine. The diesel engine is much more troublesome and expensive to maintain.
Last edited by gforaker; 04-19-2018 at 03:59 PM.
04-24-2018, 02:55 AM
#5
Member
Should it Stay or Should it Go
My thought would be, considering how the facelift prices are dropping, if you can drop the coin get a low mile '11 or even a gas blue efficiency '12. If not, It's pretty easy to run the VIN on your '08 and verify you have a motor with the corrected balance shaft. Or, if you don't like how your '08 is equipped, sell it and go with the best equipped lowest mileage '09 or newer model you can find.
As another poster said, the first two years were the worst, then they got progressively better. And avoid the BlueTec unless you know diesels
. I've owned 3 running gas so far (a m272 and two m276, all of them face lift), selling up into better ones each time. So I've experienced the typical Merc failures that are common across the entire SUV model line:
The 300 hp m276 blue efficiency in the '12 is what I prefer. I drive it pretty lazy but it has plenty of power when I need it, and still gets 20mpg in combo city/highway. I've actually seen 26-28 with highway only driving (of course near the speed limit). Not bad for a 5200 pound behemoth.
While it's a little easier to find the earlier models (or even an '11) that are well equipped (ex: I've yet to see a '12 with genuine leather, only MBtex), But for sure, the older m272 motor cant touch the m276, So either I tolerate the fax stuff which isn't half bad, or do an interior swap out...
My only real gripe is that I wish was that the w251 came with bigger brakes. Slowing down one of these beasts really pushes the limit of the OE two pot calipers. But there are a couple good threads here with a few proven upgrade options.
Hope that helps.
As another poster said, the first two years were the worst, then they got progressively better. And avoid the BlueTec unless you know diesels
. I've owned 3 running gas so far (a m272 and two m276, all of them face lift), selling up into better ones each time. So I've experienced the typical Merc failures that are common across the entire SUV model line:- AC compressor good for 100k-120k (a new aftermarket one is like $200 - $250, not so bad)
- Merc's Airbag shocks / struts good for 70k - 100k (It's been said before, replace with Arnott, $175 per side)
- Parktronic sensors good for 70k-100k (I get the Bosch brand off eBay $40)
- Pano roof needs to be babysat with the correct approved lubricants or their specific equivalents (spend the $40 - $50 bucks on this stuff or the plastic gears and drive motor turn to s**t).
- And don't get me started on the little plastic pano roof control switch by the rear view mirror. 60$ for a little plastic knock off of it on ebay or go to Merc and buy a $500 assembly? Are you kidding me?
- Some have also said the rear hatch has issues but I haven't seen it.
The 300 hp m276 blue efficiency in the '12 is what I prefer. I drive it pretty lazy but it has plenty of power when I need it, and still gets 20mpg in combo city/highway. I've actually seen 26-28 with highway only driving (of course near the speed limit). Not bad for a 5200 pound behemoth.
While it's a little easier to find the earlier models (or even an '11) that are well equipped (ex: I've yet to see a '12 with genuine leather, only MBtex), But for sure, the older m272 motor cant touch the m276, So either I tolerate the fax stuff which isn't half bad, or do an interior swap out...
My only real gripe is that I wish was that the w251 came with bigger brakes. Slowing down one of these beasts really pushes the limit of the OE two pot calipers. But there are a couple good threads here with a few proven upgrade options.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Lioninstreet; 04-24-2018 at 02:59 AM.
04-24-2018, 08:01 AM
#6
Super Member
Hey! Great infor @Lioninstreet! Thanks! especially the AC compressor and pano roof. i have a 2011,, got it in 2015 with 30k Miles (40K km) and it already had an AC leak to the rear repaired under warranty. Leaked again under extended warranty in 2016. Got 120K km now and have probably an airbag leak...
Have to read up on the pano roof lube... I have AlldataDIY, should look up the process. I did lube it myself with lithium white grease. So far no problems with the rear hatch I did just replace the alternator.. bad regulator.
I dont have problems with the parktronic, unless you are talking about the blind spot warning. Those went out. i hear they are like over $500 each to replace... radar... I think.
Have to read up on the pano roof lube... I have AlldataDIY, should look up the process. I did lube it myself with lithium white grease. So far no problems with the rear hatch I did just replace the alternator.. bad regulator.
I dont have problems with the parktronic, unless you are talking about the blind spot warning. Those went out. i hear they are like over $500 each to replace... radar... I think.
04-24-2018, 11:27 AM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank's
Thanks yea thats was Alot of help...i ran the Vin and got these Specs ..let me know if thats the engine number..and if this engine has those problems...
R-CLASS (W251, V251)
Engine Number of Cylinders:
6
Displacement (CC):
3500.0
Displacement (CI):
213.58310433156
Displacement (L):
3.5
Fuel Type - Primary:
Gasoline
[QUOTE=Lioninstreet;7437846]My thought would be, considering how the facelift prices are dropping, if you can drop the coin get a low mile '11 or even a gas blue efficiency '12. If not, It's pretty easy to run the VIN on your '08 and verify you have a motor with the corrected balance shaft. Or, if you don't like how your '08 is equipped, sell it and go with the best equipped lowest mileage '09 or newer model you can find.
As another poster said, the first two years were the worst, then they got progressively better. And avoid the BlueTec unless you know diesels. I've owned 3 running gas so far (a m272 and two m276, all of them face lift), selling up into better ones each time. So I've experienced the typical Merc failures that are common across the entire SUV model line:
The 300 hp m276 blue efficiency in the '12 is what I prefer. I drive it pretty lazy but it has plenty of power when I need it, and still gets 20mpg in combo city/highway. I've actually seen 26-28 with highway only driving (of course near the speed limit). Not bad for a 5200 pound behemoth.
While it's a little easier to find the earlier models (or even an '11) that are well equipped (ex: I've yet to see a '12 with genuine leather, only MBtex), But for sure, the older m272 motor cant touch the m276, So either I tolerate the fax stuff which isn't half bad, or do an interior swap out...
My only real gripe is that I wish was that the w251 came with bigger brakes. Slowing down one of these beasts really pushes the limit of the OE two pot calipers. But there are a couple good threads here with a few proven upgrade options.
Hope that helps.[/QU
R-CLASS (W251, V251)
Engine Number of Cylinders:
6
Displacement (CC):
3500.0
Displacement (CI):
213.58310433156
Displacement (L):
3.5
Fuel Type - Primary:
Gasoline
[QUOTE=Lioninstreet;7437846]My thought would be, considering how the facelift prices are dropping, if you can drop the coin get a low mile '11 or even a gas blue efficiency '12. If not, It's pretty easy to run the VIN on your '08 and verify you have a motor with the corrected balance shaft. Or, if you don't like how your '08 is equipped, sell it and go with the best equipped lowest mileage '09 or newer model you can find.
As another poster said, the first two years were the worst, then they got progressively better. And avoid the BlueTec unless you know diesels
. I've owned 3 running gas so far (a m272 and two m276, all of them face lift), selling up into better ones each time. So I've experienced the typical Merc failures that are common across the entire SUV model line:- AC compressor good for 100k-120k (a new aftermarket one is like $200 - $250, not so bad)
- Merc's Airbag shocks / struts good for 70k - 100k (It's been said before, replace with Arnott, $175 per side)
- Parktronic sensors good for 70k-100k (I get the Bosch brand off eBay $40)
- Pano roof needs to be babysat with the correct approved lubricants or their specific equivalents (spend the $40 - $50 bucks on this stuff or the plastic gears and drive motor turn to s**t).
- And don't get me started on the little plastic pano roof control switch by the rear view mirror. 60$ for a little plastic knock off of it on ebay or go to Merc and buy a $500 assembly? Are you kidding me?
- Some have also said the rear hatch has issues but I haven't seen it.
The 300 hp m276 blue efficiency in the '12 is what I prefer. I drive it pretty lazy but it has plenty of power when I need it, and still gets 20mpg in combo city/highway. I've actually seen 26-28 with highway only driving (of course near the speed limit). Not bad for a 5200 pound behemoth.
While it's a little easier to find the earlier models (or even an '11) that are well equipped (ex: I've yet to see a '12 with genuine leather, only MBtex), But for sure, the older m272 motor cant touch the m276, So either I tolerate the fax stuff which isn't half bad, or do an interior swap out...
My only real gripe is that I wish was that the w251 came with bigger brakes. Slowing down one of these beasts really pushes the limit of the OE two pot calipers. But there are a couple good threads here with a few proven upgrade options.
Hope that helps.[/QU
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04-24-2018, 02:27 PM
#8
Member
Have to read up on the pano roof lube... I have AlldataDIY, should look up the process. I did lube it myself with lithium white grease. So far no problems with the rear hatch I did just replace the alternator.. bad regulator.
I dont have problems with the parktronic, unless you are talking about the blind spot warning. Those went out. i hear they are like over $500 each to replace... radar... I think.
I dont have problems with the parktronic, unless you are talking about the blind spot warning. Those went out. i hear they are like over $500 each to replace... radar... I think.
On the Pano, I pasted in the below from a full maintenance guide that I posted on one of the other Merc threads. WIS instruction sheet for Pano roof maintenance instructions I'll attach here also. I've also read on the 500e board that the white lithium doesn't really last very long and is easily washed away by a good heavy rain.
First, I'm suggesting you use the grease Merc calls Gleitpaste (001 989 14 51, now superseded by 001 989 46 51). It is a complex NLGI Class 2 grease. The Mercedes product MSDS shows it as a blend of mineral oil, synthetic hydrocarbon oil, and special lithium soap as a thickening agent. This obviously specially formulated and only sold by Merc in large $95 500g tubs. But I've found a few companies like ECS Tuning or Mercedes Source repackaging it and selling smaller quantities of for about $10 - $15 (enough for one or two applications). I do mine every 20k or so. So there is really no need to get the large tub or research a comparable substitute.
Gleitpaste
Gleitpaste Kit
Second is the little 1 oz bottle of pano-roof oil (A001 989 50 51, now superseded to A 000 989 36 60) that lists out at $65. It is called special lubricating sliding compound oil and is also sold as convertible top seal quieting lubricant. Per the Mercedes product MSDS, this stuff is actually a preparation of perflourpolyethers (PFPE). That means it's made by Dupont / Chemors. They invented PTPE for aeronautical and aerospace use back in the sixties and call this particular product Krytox GPL105. 1 oz bottles are all over fleabay and amazon for about $25 - $30..
Both the lubricating "oil" and Gleitpaste are special purpose products, so IMHO it's best to specifically stick with them instead of experimenting with over the counter substitutes from somewhere like NAPA, Pep Boys, or Advance Auto.
04-24-2018, 02:38 PM
#9
Member
Thanks yea thats was Alot of help...i ran the Vin and got these Specs ..let me know if thats the engine number..and if this engine has those problems...
R-CLASS (W251, V251)
Engine Number of Cylinders:
6
Displacement (CC):
3500.0
Displacement (CI):
213.58310433156
Displacement (L):
3.5
Fuel Type - Primary:
Gasoline
R-CLASS (W251, V251)
Engine Number of Cylinders:
6
Displacement (CC):
3500.0
Displacement (CI):
213.58310433156
Displacement (L):
3.5
Fuel Type - Primary:
Gasoline
04-24-2018, 10:09 PM
#10
Super Member
Never had the blind spot warning (on the mirrors) go out. But the Parktronic distance sensors in the bumpers are problematic. These trigger the yellow and red lights up by the front of the windshield or back on the headliner by the rear hatch. If you need new sensors, don't buy the cheap Chinese ones, they have a shorter half life than the ones from MB. I stick with the aftermarket Bosch ones.
On the Pano, I pasted in the below from a full maintenance guide that I posted on one of the other Merc threads. WIS instruction sheet for Pano roof maintenance instructions I'll attach here also. I've also read on the 500e board that the white lithium doesn't really last very long and is easily washed away by a good heavy rain.
First, I'm suggesting you use the grease Merc calls Gleitpaste (001 989 14 51, now superseded by 001 989 46 51). It is a complex NLGI Class 2 grease. The Mercedes product MSDS shows it as a blend of mineral oil, synthetic hydrocarbon oil, and special lithium soap as a thickening agent. This obviously specially formulated and only sold by Merc in large $95 500g tubs. But I've found a few companies like ECS Tuning or Mercedes Source repackaging it and selling smaller quantities of for about $10 - $15 (enough for one or two applications). I do mine every 20k or so. So there is really no need to get the large tub or research a comparable substitute.
Gleitpaste
Gleitpaste Kit
Second is the little 1 oz bottle of pano-roof oil (A001 989 50 51, now superseded to A 000 989 36 60) that lists out at $65. It is called special lubricating sliding compound oil and is also sold as convertible top seal quieting lubricant. Per the Mercedes product MSDS, this stuff is actually a preparation of perflourpolyethers (PFPE). That means it's made by Dupont / Chemors. They invented PTPE for aeronautical and aerospace use back in the sixties and call this particular product Krytox GPL105. 1 oz bottles are all over fleabay and amazon for about $25 - $30..
Both the lubricating "oil" and Gleitpaste are special purpose products, so IMHO it's best to specifically stick with them instead of experimenting with over the counter substitutes from somewhere like NAPA, Pep Boys, or Advance Auto.
On the Pano, I pasted in the below from a full maintenance guide that I posted on one of the other Merc threads. WIS instruction sheet for Pano roof maintenance instructions I'll attach here also. I've also read on the 500e board that the white lithium doesn't really last very long and is easily washed away by a good heavy rain.
First, I'm suggesting you use the grease Merc calls Gleitpaste (001 989 14 51, now superseded by 001 989 46 51). It is a complex NLGI Class 2 grease. The Mercedes product MSDS shows it as a blend of mineral oil, synthetic hydrocarbon oil, and special lithium soap as a thickening agent. This obviously specially formulated and only sold by Merc in large $95 500g tubs. But I've found a few companies like ECS Tuning or Mercedes Source repackaging it and selling smaller quantities of for about $10 - $15 (enough for one or two applications). I do mine every 20k or so. So there is really no need to get the large tub or research a comparable substitute.
Gleitpaste
Gleitpaste Kit
Second is the little 1 oz bottle of pano-roof oil (A001 989 50 51, now superseded to A 000 989 36 60) that lists out at $65. It is called special lubricating sliding compound oil and is also sold as convertible top seal quieting lubricant. Per the Mercedes product MSDS, this stuff is actually a preparation of perflourpolyethers (PFPE). That means it's made by Dupont / Chemors. They invented PTPE for aeronautical and aerospace use back in the sixties and call this particular product Krytox GPL105. 1 oz bottles are all over fleabay and amazon for about $25 - $30..
Both the lubricating "oil" and Gleitpaste are special purpose products, so IMHO it's best to specifically stick with them instead of experimenting with over the counter substitutes from somewhere like NAPA, Pep Boys, or Advance Auto.
http://www.skf.com/ca/en/products/lu...ase/index.html
https://www.mobil.com/english-us/gre...nthetic-grease
there are others too.
what color was the MB one? These aftermarkets are red...
It is mb spec 269.2 as per bevo ( I am sure you know how to find that!!! you are a pro!) but no other alternatives listed.
Since the pano roof is not some sort of hi psi bearing... I would say the afermarkets are going to be ok.
I am considering using silicon based brake grease. I think the main characteristics are temperature stability, as you dont want it dripping down, and resistance to water as well as corrosion protection. I can't see why the specific MB stuff is so critical.
here is some fun info on grease:
The lithium is a soap used for thickening. cool. I learned something today.
A good read for any mechanic. including grease compatability. Know your grease!
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets...15/Greases.pdf
the Kryptox GPL 105 is Dupot of course, But I found another source not much help though .. . But I am wondering if a regular "silicon" rubber lube would work too.
Fun chem lesson. I am currently helping my daughter out in organic chem.. The things ya need to know to be a backyard mechanic today! Wiki has a kryptox entry.
BTW the searches also found that both MB parts are sold at Pelican Parts...
Thanks a million!
Last edited by efzauner; 04-24-2018 at 10:46 PM.
04-24-2018, 10:55 PM
#11
Member
Glietpaste is light tan off white color.
Let me tell you, it wasn't easy convincing Merc to send me the MSDS sheets on this stuff so I could figure out what it really was. I'm still trying to find a grease they used to make that was the cat's pajamas for stopping squeaks and interior noises. Its called Silikonpaste. All the techs used it to stop the mystery interior noises. More on that HERE
If you and anyone else on the forum want to split tub of the Gleitpaste for the Pano, I'm in for that. We could probably find it for $65 - $70 for the big tub if we search around for it. Considering the stuff is specially formulated for lubricating plastic gears and felt, I'm just more comfortable using what is spec'ed instead of shopping around for alternatives.
I'm in the same camp with the Krytox. Yea it's more expensive, but nothing compared to what it costs to fix a busted Pano.
Avoiding Merc's oils and fluids, that's a different story. If it will cross reference on BeVo, I'm in...
Let me tell you, it wasn't easy convincing Merc to send me the MSDS sheets on this stuff so I could figure out what it really was. I'm still trying to find a grease they used to make that was the cat's pajamas for stopping squeaks and interior noises. Its called Silikonpaste. All the techs used it to stop the mystery interior noises. More on that HERE
If you and anyone else on the forum want to split tub of the Gleitpaste for the Pano, I'm in for that. We could probably find it for $65 - $70 for the big tub if we search around for it. Considering the stuff is specially formulated for lubricating plastic gears and felt, I'm just more comfortable using what is spec'ed instead of shopping around for alternatives.
I'm in the same camp with the Krytox. Yea it's more expensive, but nothing compared to what it costs to fix a busted Pano.
Avoiding Merc's oils and fluids, that's a different story. If it will cross reference on BeVo, I'm in...
Last edited by Lioninstreet; 04-24-2018 at 11:15 PM.
04-24-2018, 11:29 PM
#12
Super Member
yeah I get you.
I did read up on the squeekpaste! lol. It may be just silicon grease. brake grease. Maybe not very available years ago but you can get it everywhere now. Great for rubber parts that squeek were yo dont want to use a petroleum based grease. I have a tube of kleen flo eze slide.
I did read up on the squeekpaste! lol. It may be just silicon grease. brake grease. Maybe not very available years ago but you can get it everywhere now. Great for rubber parts that squeek were yo dont want to use a petroleum based grease. I have a tube of kleen flo eze slide.
04-24-2018, 11:57 PM
#13
Member
Not to hijack this thread but....
I found some stuff that had the same NLGI and contents shown on the MSDS for the "Wunderpaste" (silicone oil and lithium soap). It's a Dow Corning product called Molykote 44m. I tried it to try and quiett down my creaky second row console lid.
It worked for about 5 minutes of driving...
This to give example that it ain't as easy as it sounds to find replacements that function as well as some of the Merc branded greases, especially the Silikonpaste...
And now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
I found some stuff that had the same NLGI and contents shown on the MSDS for the "Wunderpaste" (silicone oil and lithium soap). It's a Dow Corning product called Molykote 44m. I tried it to try and quiett down my creaky second row console lid.
It worked for about 5 minutes of driving...
This to give example that it ain't as easy as it sounds to find replacements that function as well as some of the Merc branded greases, especially the Silikonpaste...
And now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
04-25-2018, 01:26 AM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You need to use a full on Vin Decoder and should be able to confirm it yourself. Try following the instructions found HERE
272967 30 883885
from what i understood...i might be in the clear..what do you think ?
04-25-2018, 07:05 AM
#15
Member
My thought would be, considering how the facelift prices are dropping, if you can drop the coin get a low mile '11 or even a gas blue efficiency '12. If not, It's pretty easy to run the VIN on your '08 and verify you have a motor with the corrected balance shaft. Or, if you don't like how your '08 is equipped, sell it and go with the best equipped lowest mileage '09 or newer model you can find.
As another poster said, the first two years were the worst, then they got progressively better. And avoid the BlueTec unless you know diesels. I've owned 3 running gas so far (a m272 and two m276, all of them face lift), selling up into better ones each time. So I've experienced the typical Merc failures that are common across the entire SUV model line:
The 300 hp m276 blue efficiency in the '12 is what I prefer. I drive it pretty lazy but it has plenty of power when I need it, and still gets 20mpg in combo city/highway. I've actually seen 26-28 with highway only driving (of course near the speed limit). Not bad for a 5200 pound behemoth.
While it's a little easier to find the earlier models (or even an '11) that are well equipped (ex: I've yet to see a '12 with genuine leather, only MBtex), But for sure, the older m272 motor cant touch the m276, So either I tolerate the fax stuff which isn't half bad, or do an interior swap out...
My only real gripe is that I wish was that the w251 came with bigger brakes. Slowing down one of these beasts really pushes the limit of the OE two pot calipers. But there are a couple good threads here with a few proven upgrade options.
Hope that helps.
As another poster said, the first two years were the worst, then they got progressively better. And avoid the BlueTec unless you know diesels
. I've owned 3 running gas so far (a m272 and two m276, all of them face lift), selling up into better ones each time. So I've experienced the typical Merc failures that are common across the entire SUV model line:- AC compressor good for 100k-120k (a new aftermarket one is like $200 - $250, not so bad)
- Merc's Airbag shocks / struts good for 70k - 100k (It's been said before, replace with Arnott, $175 per side)
- Parktronic sensors good for 70k-100k (I get the Bosch brand off eBay $40)
- Pano roof needs to be babysat with the correct approved lubricants or their specific equivalents (spend the $40 - $50 bucks on this stuff or the plastic gears and drive motor turn to s**t).
- And don't get me started on the little plastic pano roof control switch by the rear view mirror. 60$ for a little plastic knock off of it on ebay or go to Merc and buy a $500 assembly? Are you kidding me?
- Some have also said the rear hatch has issues but I haven't seen it.
The 300 hp m276 blue efficiency in the '12 is what I prefer. I drive it pretty lazy but it has plenty of power when I need it, and still gets 20mpg in combo city/highway. I've actually seen 26-28 with highway only driving (of course near the speed limit). Not bad for a 5200 pound behemoth.
While it's a little easier to find the earlier models (or even an '11) that are well equipped (ex: I've yet to see a '12 with genuine leather, only MBtex), But for sure, the older m272 motor cant touch the m276, So either I tolerate the fax stuff which isn't half bad, or do an interior swap out...
My only real gripe is that I wish was that the w251 came with bigger brakes. Slowing down one of these beasts really pushes the limit of the OE two pot calipers. But there are a couple good threads here with a few proven upgrade options.
Hope that helps.
Thanks
04-25-2018, 08:22 AM
#16
Member
Shameless plug: Hit me with a thanks if anything I'm posting is helpful.
Last edited by Lioninstreet; 04-25-2018 at 08:25 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Lioninstreet:
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04-25-2018, 08:41 AM
#17
Member
But you still could have the (easy/cheap) cam sensor magnet problems. Give a SA a call over at your friendly local stealership and they should be able to check if that was fixed under the recall or not.
The other thing on the m272 you should be aware of is the 06-11 intake manifold swirl flap
ECS has a forum link for their repair kit, but if you google search for it or look on eBay you might find a better deal on it.
Last edited by Lioninstreet; 04-25-2018 at 09:24 AM.
04-25-2018, 08:46 AM
#18
Super Member
Not to hijack this thread but....
I found some stuff that had the same NLGI and contents shown on the MSDS for the "Wunderpaste" (silicone oil and lithium soap). It's a Dow Corning product called Molykote 44m. I tried it to try and quiett down my creaky second row console lid.
It worked for about 5 minutes of driving...
This to give example that it ain't as easy as it sounds to find replacements that function as well as some of the Merc branded greases, especially the Silikonpaste...
And now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
I found some stuff that had the same NLGI and contents shown on the MSDS for the "Wunderpaste" (silicone oil and lithium soap). It's a Dow Corning product called Molykote 44m. I tried it to try and quiett down my creaky second row console lid.
It worked for about 5 minutes of driving...
This to give example that it ain't as easy as it sounds to find replacements that function as well as some of the Merc branded greases, especially the Silikonpaste...
And now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
04-25-2018, 08:57 AM
#20
Member
We are talking about 2 greases... the older general purpose squeek preventer wonder paste. This I think is silicon based and wont affect rubber. As far as I know silicon lubricants are thickened with fused silica, (and some other substances in some cases.. you can read up on wiki) not lithium soap. You may be confusing this with the synthetic oil/lithium soap based grease "gleitpaste" for the pano roof.
I don't mind imaging the MSDS for these products, but out of courtesy to the OP, you should prolly start a new thread for this. Just send me a PM when you do.
Last edited by Lioninstreet; 04-25-2018 at 11:16 AM. Reason: Clairification
04-26-2018, 08:49 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks ' @LioninStreet..ima keep an eye out for any intake manifold problems then of any kind.....Also since my engine is over the 088611 ..would i still have a chance to have that Awfull Cam problem everyone talks about ?
Your engine's serial number is 273967 30 883885 so no it is not in the threshold. My understanding is only M272 Engine up to Serial No. 2729..30 088611 are affected.
But you still could have the (easy/cheap) cam sensor magnet problems. Give a SA a call over at your friendly local stealership and they should be able to check if that was fixed under the recall or not.
The other thing on the m272 you should be aware of is the 06-11 intake manifold swirl flap LINKY has been known to fail between 60k - 100k. If you do a general forum search for "broken swirl flap" there is all kinds of info on it.
ECS has a forum link for their repair kit, but if you google search for it or look on eBay you might find a better deal on it.
But you still could have the (easy/cheap) cam sensor magnet problems. Give a SA a call over at your friendly local stealership and they should be able to check if that was fixed under the recall or not.
The other thing on the m272 you should be aware of is the 06-11 intake manifold swirl flap LINKY has been known to fail between 60k - 100k. If you do a general forum search for "broken swirl flap" there is all kinds of info on it.
ECS has a forum link for their repair kit, but if you google search for it or look on eBay you might find a better deal on it.
