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Hello everyone. Here from New York City I am new to the R-Class and new to Mercedes in general but not new to "high" end vehicles sort of say.
Anyway, just purchased a 2011 R350 4Matic with 45k Miles and I have some questions.
My 1st question is, how do I acquire/install a center console with cup holders in the 2nd row of my van? (I have captain chairs - See photos below)
My 2nd question is, anyone in the NYC area have knowledge on installing brembo brake calipers? (S65 CL55 Calipers) I saw it done here on the forum and it was not plug & play but also not tedious.
My 3rd question is, how hard/easy is it to switch the fog lights to the 2012 Bar Fog Lights? (Definitely doing this mod)
Last question is, what mechanical issue/s should I be most worried about and how to avoid? (besides shocks)
1) I don't believe the R-class had middle row cups in the console between the seats. Only a 3rd passenger (child size) seat which folded down to arm rests.
The cup holders for the middle row passengers are below vents. You would have to go with an aftermarket solution but one not specific for the R-class as I don't think anyone produced such a thing.
4) The thing most of us will deal with is the airbags for the rear but it is an easy fix.
Changing your transmission fluid and filter should be top on the list. When the fluid stops doing its duty (due to breakdown from heat) the transmission does not like it and you feel the effects. But unless you have had experience with how your vehicle behaves and feels when the ATF needs changing you will think you need new mounts, or the flex plate is going bad or any number of worrying issues. MB recommends 70k mile change interval but you REALLY want to do it around 40k. Before bad things start happening (excessive internal wear). This is a job you should be able to do yourself given the number of write-ups and videos online for changing the ATF in the 722.9 transmission. I recently did mine and, next to changing the oil regularly, I cant think of another more important maintenance item.
Change the oil regularly, timely and use the correct fluid. Don't add anything MB doesn't tell you to (Pro Tip: They don't want you adding anything).
Change your front differential fluid every 30k miles or so as it is exposed to the high heat of the engine and exhaust system which are right above it as well as reduced air flwo. The rear differential enjoys freedom from all of these issues so it doesn't NEED to be changed as often but for convenience sake and peace of mind you can just change them out together. The cost is minimal, the procedure is easy and straight forward and no special tools or equipment is required.
I'd keep my eye on the power steering fluid reservoir for leaks as well. The issue is a simple o-ring which you can change out yourself. Brake fluid can leak down on the AC compressor right below it. I cant prove that an AC compressor with PS fluid leaking down on it for an extended period of time is more likely to fail than one that doesn't BUT mine did so...
The air intake has a know plastic actuator arm which is known to break due to heat stress and age. It controls a flap which creates turbulence inside the intake housing to make to engine run better at certain times. When these flaps aren't working you get rougher idles and your gas mileage takes a hit but no CELs are thrown. You will see the error code with MB ready scan tools though. You will have to take the whole air intake to get access to it and replace it unfortunately but its not THAT bad. (Pro Tip: Go with an upgraded aluminum replacement so you won't be doing that job again). Videos online will help a lot. As an added bonus you'll be able to EASILY change your sparkplugs, fuel injectors knock sensors cam shaft caps and oil separator cover with the intake out of the way. You'll want to clean out any gunk out of your air intake while you have it on your bench. If you take it to the dealer they will have you just change out the entire air intake on the chance that something else is wrong with it internally.
If you take care of the preventatives and scheduled maintenance you should be good. Or at least you will be able to catch bad things before they become worse.
Most things that will keep you up at night will throw a check engine light or some other error code. If I were you I would invest in a scantool which can read the MB specific codes and vitals. I think it will take the guess work out of a lot of any issues you might have. I don't have one personally but I wish I did. (Pro Tip: Get one of these scan tools)
Lastly, stay up to date on what is happening with other ppl's R-Class and how it gets resolved. Setup email notifications whenever a new thread is started and read them at your leisure. Bcos we are a smaller sub-forum you won't be inundated with notifications. And when something happens to your vehicle you may more than likely recall another member having the same or similar issue. You'll may know how to solve it but more importantly, bcos you are a regular here, you will know WHERE to go to get the right answers.
(Pro Tip: Come back regularly for more pro tips).
1) Yes, the R class came with the option of having a center console. You will need the base portion as well as the console. Best bet is to get the complete set from a parted out cat.
3) I don't think any 2011+ R class came with front fog lights. If you want an OEM install, you will need the wiring harness and the dash switch.
I don't think the center console will work with those Captain's chairs though. The arm rests on the seat looks like it will but heads with the center console which asks as an arm rest too.
I have front fog lights on my 2011.
The other other other option is a DLR LED bar.
Its should be a direct swap.
I also have a 2011 and it comes with regular seats with center console. My previous was a 2008 and it had the center seat.
I was not aware that there was an option with these captain seats and no console! Interesting.
As for brembo brakes... why? The stock brakes are amazing. Just changing disks and calipers will leave the system unbalanced. Its not just such a change that will simply add performance, The master cyilinder and rears must all be balanced.
Brakes are pretty much trash to what this vehicle is to be honest. I've driven high end cars and own some pretty expensive cars as well and these brakes in my opinion are not for me. Nope the master cylinder stays the same as the r63 has upgraded ml63 calipers and disc with the same master cylinder as the regular 2007 r350...
Just purchased a 2012 this month and it has the center console with the cup holders. It also has a drawer pull/handle at the bottom which when pulled easily removes the entire thing. Useful when you want access to the 3rd row from the center.
Originally Posted by ODIOUS
I stand corrected.
The earlier years came with the center console but they did away with it.
I don't think the center console will work with those Captain's chairs though. The arm rests on the seat looks like it will but heads with the center console which asks as an arm rest too.
I have front fog lights on my 2011.
The other other other option is a DLR LED bar.
Its should be a direct swap.
mercedes dealer serviced my 2008 R350 last October ~replaced front and rear main seals
has been driven 5K miles since then and now is burning oil ferociously in the amount of 10 quarts since the repair . total bill $7843 of which about 4K for the seals.
Brought back to dealer and they say that it needs a new engine and take no financial responsibility for the oil burning. The y are saying that by replacing the front and rear seals it may have increased the pressure on some internal seals which now causes the oil burning. Prior to the work the car did not burn oil at all. They offered a used engine at $4K and 4.5K to install it which is over the book value of the car.
Any suggestions anybody?
sorry for posting on this thread but the site wouldn't let me start a new thread..
Ouch!
Replacing both main seals couldn't have been exactly cheap, either!
I'm having a hard time believing that replacing them caused an issue with crankcase pressure. When you reported the oil consumption problem to them, did they make any mention of the condition of the PCV?
All motors have this and vent the excess gases in crank back to the intake. On the MB diesels the vent has a diaphragm controlling the valve opening, which fails. I'm not familiar with the gas setup but there is some sort of PCV.
If they haven't checked it they are negligent and advising you hastily, go elsewhere.
thanks for replying- just picked the car up and my wife says it runs worse than when we dropped it off for diagnostics..
They did not mention the PCV / It is a gas model , not diesel
It burns a lot of blue smoke upon startup then as you go down the road it clears up little , so I think oil is seeping in to the combustion chamber while it sits.
expensive lesson_ I think we'll have to just drive it until it's dead . Not worth putting any more into it.
I like Tsumi's idea!
5.5 is as close to a 'Proven' motor, as will fit.
Is there a topic on MBWorld for motor swaps? I've been wondering if that's even a thing in the MB owner community.
Not to hijack OP's thread, but I'd like to see an OM651 put into W251 - the accessibility/serviceability of the car would be Sooo much better.
that sounds like fun
I have a CL55 AMG engine I'd like to put in there but I can't imagine it would fit
It'll fit. They were available with the M273 in Canada and Europe, and at one point had the M156 6.2L AMG engine in it.
Originally Posted by B34chBum
I like Tsumi's idea!
5.5 is as close to a 'Proven' motor, as will fit.
Is there a topic on MBWorld for motor swaps? I've been wondering if that's even a thing in the MB owner community.
Not to hijack OP's thread, but I'd like to see an OM651 put into W251 - the accessibility/serviceability of the car would be Sooo much better.
There are some swap threads, mostly within the same generation (i.e. M272 -> M273, M113 4.3 -> M113 5.5, etc).
Did the vehicle come equipped with the center console or was it installed by the previous owner?
You'd know by running your VIN through an MB VIN decoder to see the options it was installed with at the factory.
That would likely involve replacing the whole 2nd row.
Which I think nycr350 will have to do to get the same results.
update : now the car doesn't produce a cloud of blue smoke when it's started but has a misfire code on cyl #4. and runs like it's missing .
I changed the Ignition coil on #4 and doesn't run any better.
I have no explanation as to why it stopped producing blue smoke upon startup and beyond. Mercedes dealer said compression was good on all cylinders
and dealer is basically useless at this point
When you mentioned blue smoke at startup - classic cause is valve guide wear. But, now is gone. Dealer did a compression check they said - perhaps they put some oil into cylinder as part of their testing, and now it's burned off.
Are you comfortable with pulling the spark plugs and looking them over / comparing how they look? That seems like a pretty universal check.
Maybe #4 is fouled.
Also look over the plug wires and make sure at the least none can touch anything which gets hot (, that they are in their stand-off clips). Maybe have new plugs handy before starting.
" BeachBum "" thanks ---
Blue smoke started after the dealer replaced the front and rear main seals on the engine which was before the dealer looked at it the second time, so it wouldn't be from the compression test. I just don't know how an engine could suddenly stop burning oil .
As well as replacing the front & rear seals, at the same time the dealer replaced all of the spark plugs and the cyl#1 ignition, stating that the spark plugs were the original ones and had 133k miles on them. Now code says cyl. #4 misfire, Dealer also replaced engine mounts and air suspension compressor which should not be related. I can take the plug out and look at it, but meantime if the plug is ok, where else to look?
Okay, I think I'm following you now - So with new main seals oil blowing problem started. Now has stopped - at least that is good.
So misfire on one cylinder - is either bad spark or bad air/fuel mix, all other things being equal. That's why I included looking at condition of plug wires.
When you pull #4 plug you'll also want to check gap and probably compare the gap to a cylinder not misfiring.
But as far as ignition components if coil packs were replaced there's not much else beside wires and plugs.
Hopefully dealer put platinum or iridium plugs in. I haven't bought plugs in years (diesel) but the last time I bought a set, they were iridium. Copper tips require too much fiddling.
Between the durability and the reliability of the spark, to me they seem like the way to go - they don't require as much voltage so seems especially beneficial as ignition systems age.
Thanks _ as soon as I get a chance I will pull the spark plug out and see what I find.
Keeping in mind that the dealer said "Needs new engine "
Dealer's quote is $8750 to put in a used engine.
sorry for the huge photo_ this is the cylinder #4 plug when I removed it. I've never seen a plug this bad , it was installed in September 2020 and has about 5k miles on it.
Put in a new plug and big cloud of blue smoke upon first startup , not skipping anymore .
I'm guessing that I have to wait and see if the plug fouls again, but I suspect something bad is going on in cylinder#4. I took it for a quick test drive and it has back to normal power but blew a little smoke on heavy acceleration.
06-25-2021, 12:52 AM
Center Console
