Hi All, The sill jack points are good on my R class, I have the proper adaptors and getting the beast to **** a leg isn't too much hassle. But I need to get right under the car to get the large centre under tray off so I can change the axles and transfer box oil. If that is OK I might have a go at the automatic box later.

I want to feel safe under there though! The old Saab was quite hefty at the front, but moderate at the rear. My lad's Kia and the wifes' Hyundai are very light and I can rely on almost anything under there with me to avert disaster. The R class is HEAVY at all 4 corners. I mean even the wheels would hurt if dropped on you!

Putting stands under the rear subframe - scarily compressed the subframe mounts - so looking for ideas. I'm thinking under the centre bolts of the subframe bushes might be the best place. R class don't have any handy beams or off-road clearance like the ML. My drive is on a 10% slope - which hasn't caused any issue in 30 years of car maintenence. But I want to keep my body the way it is now thanks not or

 

OK, the front has a central jacking point. I can use that and axle stands on the sill jack points. OK?
The back has an absense of any big bits of metal to jack on except the subframe. Or jack on the sill and use the subframe as I did before for jack stands. It might be easier for me to drive it up a kerb and hang the **** end off for how long it will take to change the axle oil!

Oh, I have 5 gallons of lanoline and some IPA to squirt that rust before it gets serious! The oil is power steering fluid when I dropped the container to catch the return line, D'oh! Jig-sawed hole in the front undertray is so I can change the engine oil easily next time :-)

 

Front jack point should be good, and for the rear I would just use the rear differential.

 

I'm not sure about the alloy case or the diff mounting bolts. The R is a heavy lump.

Is this something you have done successfully?

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Sorted. Large plastic ramps. Half a dozen axle stands and two bystanders thrown underneath to be sure :-)


Rear differential oil was dirty and was ready at 98,000 miles. No scary particles in it though :-)

Next installment, transfer box (messy!) and front diff.

No jacking points here. DEFINTELY NOT on the diff!



Surface rust on the subframe. It's going to get a good dousing in lanoline at the weekend. Inside and out.

 

I think on my car I lifted it by the tow hitch- I installed an OEM one. On other cars I have lifted by the rear differential, not the R500 specifically. Ramps worked well for you, and I would have been very leary putting the car on jack stands on that kind of incline.

 

good post. Yes on the front jack point... and also the 4 side points... the ones the garage use on the big lift..

But I have always jacked on the rear diff housing... for 12 years now. on my R320 and now on R350.. So... if not there, where?
After lifting with the front point or diff housing I have a stack of 6x6 inch wood pieces i place under the side points. rock solid