Every time I think I have everything fixed this car seems to surprise me. A while back my R350 went to crank no start after getting gas at the local gas station. I started and stopped it at least 15 times that day no issue until that moment. Code reader said P0022 and P00122 for the camshaft adjustors.... I think this was stored from before. I have new camshaft adjusters not yet installed. the other code was 336 for the CPS. The car has 195k miles on it. I used a scope to inspect what I could of the timing chain. Everything appears in very good shape. Battery, alternator, and start are all working properly.

I towed the vehicle back to my driveway. Was working on it a few days later with the new sensor. Before changing the sensor it stated for just about 10 seconds and died. I watched the live data and the ECM is shutting down the fuel pump just after i turn the key. I've assume it was due to the bad POS. After about 4 hrs or cursing and working my hand down to the POS I swapped it for a new one I bought off Amazon. The car continues to no start and now gives a P0335. At this point I'm thinking its a bad new sensor. I at one point did see something about short in the left fuel sender, but I did disconnect and reconnect the pump checking it was getting signal so I'm not thinking that's the issue. I did replace the fuel sending unit to fix the fuel gage a while back. That was probably 8 tanks of fuel ago.

Could it be that I need to saw both the camshaft adjustors and CPS? I figured switching the CPS would get it running and then I'd get it out of the sun in my garage and change the adjustors out, but getting the Crank NoStart again just took the wind out of me.

Anyone run into this? Thoughts?

 

After installing the replacement cps did you run a scan and clear the codes? I'm sure you did, but just in case ...also -try contact cleaner on the cps connector.

Larry

 

Okay, It took me a while to be in town to have time to work on my R series. I pulled the CPS installed that I thought could have been bad. Replaced it with the exact model and make as what was original. The car continues to crank and no start. I cleared the code. If I spray some starter fluid into the throttle body the car fires right up, but without it, it won't run. Checked the fuel pump wasn't coming in the on position. Pulled and checked the fuse. Fuse was good. Checked the relays.. Relay was good. After that process I could hear the fuel pump running in the on position without the starter turning, but when i go to start the run signal for the fuel pump shuts down and car fails to start. The P0336 persists. I inspected the connector. It appears in good shape. No wires pulled back. Only other code in history was for the left fuel level sensor shorted to positive. I did change the fuel level sensor and all has been fine until this point.

I think my next course of action will be to check the wiring from the CPS back. Does anyone have a wiring schematic that shows where the CPS feeds. I'm assuming it feeds to the main harness for the ECU....

Any other thoughts on what this could be? I'm all ears. Very much a frustrated novice here. The car drove perfectly right to this point.

 

So here is the follow up....

Problem is in process of being resolved. I trouble shot the issue back to the fuel tank. I placed a manual switch into the fuel control relay slot and could get the pump to run, but no fuel was coming out of the filter sending unit on the drivers side. I went back into the fuel tank. After draining out 10 gallons of fuel so I could work I discovered the issue.

The fuel filter/sender unit I bought off Amazon had a faulty connector for the fuel line. It had blow off the fuel pump and was loose in the tank. Reconnecting the line allowed me to fire up the car first crank. I've considered ordering a whole new fuel filter unit, but have opted to order a new 3/8" fuel connector from Amazon and just change out the connector instead of opening up the other side of the fuel tank again. I hate having my hands in the fuel tank. This is the second time I've had to do all this again. My advice to anyone ordering a fuel sender off Amazon is to check the connector to the fuel pump closely. I can reconnect it and it will stay for a while, but after a few starts blows off again. If the new connector doesn't work I will get rid of the connector and hose clamp it to the fuel pump for a once and for all final solution.

I'm happy to know what it is and to have my R series running again.. just tired of the smell of gasoline.