Help with Euro 6.9L SEL
08-16-2005, 06:43 PM
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2003 Cobra
Help with Euro 6.9L SEL
Well I acquired a 79 450 SEL 6.9L Euro-Spec from my Grandfather. We bought the car in Tilberg Holland in 1984 from the original owner, and had it every since.
I find that this is all I know about this car, and am forced to make a decision about the car soon, but I have nothing but service records to show.
I need to know more about the car, and figured this would be the first place to ask. I do know the car is rare and is something of value when in good shape. I would say this one is 8 out of 10 in shape. It has no DOT conversions done either.
The suspension works great and it starts on the first time every time. As solid as I remember it was when we first got it.
I love the car and it gets tons of looks from MB folks when out in the city. I just need to know if the car is worth keeping, or should I get smart on it and sell it?
Any help is great.
-Lance
I find that this is all I know about this car, and am forced to make a decision about the car soon, but I have nothing but service records to show.
I need to know more about the car, and figured this would be the first place to ask. I do know the car is rare and is something of value when in good shape. I would say this one is 8 out of 10 in shape. It has no DOT conversions done either.
The suspension works great and it starts on the first time every time. As solid as I remember it was when we first got it.
I love the car and it gets tons of looks from MB folks when out in the city. I just need to know if the car is worth keeping, or should I get smart on it and sell it?
Any help is great.
-Lance
08-17-2005, 12:49 AM
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2000 E430 4matic, 2005 ML500
Lance,
I once owned a Euro-spec 6.9, and it was truly an excellent automobile. As far as keeping the car...that really depends. Provided the car is really an "8", and has low mileage there may be some collector value in the car. To drive the car every day would be an excellent experience, but it comes at a price. This detracts from the value of the car, and each mile takes its toll on a car of this vintage.
Hi mileage, poorly maintained 6.9's are a dime a dozen, and you couldn't pay someone to take it off of your hands. Often the first indication is the sagging suspension, which is quite expensive to refurbish.
The car's value is often obscure; there really is no de facto price for the 6.9. The going rate for a near-perfect example can exceed $20,000 and beyond, but they are difficult to sell at that price. Mine finally sold for $15,000 after having paid $20,000 for this near-perfect, 1976 grey market automobile.
A couple of items...the Euro-spec 6.9 gets about 286 HP, as opposed to the 250 HP that it's US equivalent is rated. It also gets well in excess of 400 ft/lbs of torque, making it a powerful automobile. The car was notorious for vapor locking, although mine never did have that problem. The major problems tend to come from the car sitting too long without driving- mine suffered clogged fuel distributor lines, requiring a tow from my garage to the shop, and an expensive cleansing of the fuel distributor lines.
If you've got a nice car, think about keeping it- but think twice if you plan on using it as a daily driver. With the skyrocketing price of gasoline- and the added expense of keeping this car in tip-top mechanical shape (parts are difficult to procure, and quite expensive)- you'd find yourself doing anything to get rid of it.
I once owned a Euro-spec 6.9, and it was truly an excellent automobile. As far as keeping the car...that really depends. Provided the car is really an "8", and has low mileage there may be some collector value in the car. To drive the car every day would be an excellent experience, but it comes at a price. This detracts from the value of the car, and each mile takes its toll on a car of this vintage.
Hi mileage, poorly maintained 6.9's are a dime a dozen, and you couldn't pay someone to take it off of your hands. Often the first indication is the sagging suspension, which is quite expensive to refurbish.
The car's value is often obscure; there really is no de facto price for the 6.9. The going rate for a near-perfect example can exceed $20,000 and beyond, but they are difficult to sell at that price. Mine finally sold for $15,000 after having paid $20,000 for this near-perfect, 1976 grey market automobile.
A couple of items...the Euro-spec 6.9 gets about 286 HP, as opposed to the 250 HP that it's US equivalent is rated. It also gets well in excess of 400 ft/lbs of torque, making it a powerful automobile. The car was notorious for vapor locking, although mine never did have that problem. The major problems tend to come from the car sitting too long without driving- mine suffered clogged fuel distributor lines, requiring a tow from my garage to the shop, and an expensive cleansing of the fuel distributor lines.
If you've got a nice car, think about keeping it- but think twice if you plan on using it as a daily driver. With the skyrocketing price of gasoline- and the added expense of keeping this car in tip-top mechanical shape (parts are difficult to procure, and quite expensive)- you'd find yourself doing anything to get rid of it.
08-17-2005, 02:50 AM
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2003 Cobra
Originally Posted by ames
Lance,
I once owned a Euro-spec 6.9, and it was truly an excellent automobile. As far as keeping the car...that really depends. Provided the car is really an "8", and has low mileage there may be some collector value in the car. To drive the car every day would be an excellent experience, but it comes at a price. This detracts from the value of the car, and each mile takes its toll on a car of this vintage.
Hi mileage, poorly maintained 6.9's are a dime a dozen, and you couldn't pay someone to take it off of your hands. Often the first indication is the sagging suspension, which is quite expensive to refurbish.
The car's value is often obscure; there really is no de facto price for the 6.9. The going rate for a near-perfect example can exceed $20,000 and beyond, but they are difficult to sell at that price. Mine finally sold for $15,000 after having paid $20,000 for this near-perfect, 1976 grey market automobile.
A couple of items...the Euro-spec 6.9 gets about 286 HP, as opposed to the 250 HP that it's US equivalent is rated. It also gets well in excess of 400 ft/lbs of torque, making it a powerful automobile. The car was notorious for vapor locking, although mine never did have that problem. The major problems tend to come from the car sitting too long without driving- mine suffered clogged fuel distributor lines, requiring a tow from my garage to the shop, and an expensive cleansing of the fuel distributor lines.
If you've got a nice car, think about keeping it- but think twice if you plan on using it as a daily driver. With the skyrocketing price of gasoline- and the added expense of keeping this car in tip-top mechanical shape (parts are difficult to procure, and quite expensive)- you'd find yourself doing anything to get rid of it.
I once owned a Euro-spec 6.9, and it was truly an excellent automobile. As far as keeping the car...that really depends. Provided the car is really an "8", and has low mileage there may be some collector value in the car. To drive the car every day would be an excellent experience, but it comes at a price. This detracts from the value of the car, and each mile takes its toll on a car of this vintage.
Hi mileage, poorly maintained 6.9's are a dime a dozen, and you couldn't pay someone to take it off of your hands. Often the first indication is the sagging suspension, which is quite expensive to refurbish.
The car's value is often obscure; there really is no de facto price for the 6.9. The going rate for a near-perfect example can exceed $20,000 and beyond, but they are difficult to sell at that price. Mine finally sold for $15,000 after having paid $20,000 for this near-perfect, 1976 grey market automobile.
A couple of items...the Euro-spec 6.9 gets about 286 HP, as opposed to the 250 HP that it's US equivalent is rated. It also gets well in excess of 400 ft/lbs of torque, making it a powerful automobile. The car was notorious for vapor locking, although mine never did have that problem. The major problems tend to come from the car sitting too long without driving- mine suffered clogged fuel distributor lines, requiring a tow from my garage to the shop, and an expensive cleansing of the fuel distributor lines.
If you've got a nice car, think about keeping it- but think twice if you plan on using it as a daily driver. With the skyrocketing price of gasoline- and the added expense of keeping this car in tip-top mechanical shape (parts are difficult to procure, and quite expensive)- you'd find yourself doing anything to get rid of it.
Thanks a lot.. I love the car but don't really need it, it just sits most of the time anyways. Seems like I should just store it away huh? It's kinda partial to me too.
Thanks for the info and more is welcome.
-Lance
08-17-2005, 03:01 PM
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2000 E430 4matic, 2005 ML500
Lance...go ahead and store your car, but do keep a couple of things in mind...a sedentary car does not a happy car/owner make. Be sure to drive it at least every three to four weeks.
Just because you're storing the car, this does does not negate required maintenance intervals. You'd need to continue changing the oil/filter every six months, whether or not you're actually covering 3000 miles/yr.
If you were to switch to synthetic, this would not be a bad thing- but if you do decide to- stick with it, and be prepared to replace a few seals. Synthetic does not sludge, does not break down like petroleum-based oils, and has been known to quiet those noisy lifters.
If your car has not been modified to comply with the EPA and DOT regs, be prepared to present the requisite documentation when having your car smog-tested and inspected if this is required where you live. The importer of the car should have received EPA documentation exempting certain emissions equipment required Federally and in most states (O2 sensors, etc.). If a vehicle inspection is required where you live, you may find that you may need to make some modifications to the car to comply with DOT regulations (side-impact beams, etc.).
I believe that you're allowed to import one gray market vehicle lifetime that has these EPA exemptions. If these items are not in order, you could start finding out very soon why people tend to get a bit nervous, and shy away from gray market autos. If you've got the requisite docs, then you're in great shape.
Just because you're storing the car, this does does not negate required maintenance intervals. You'd need to continue changing the oil/filter every six months, whether or not you're actually covering 3000 miles/yr.
If you were to switch to synthetic, this would not be a bad thing- but if you do decide to- stick with it, and be prepared to replace a few seals. Synthetic does not sludge, does not break down like petroleum-based oils, and has been known to quiet those noisy lifters.
If your car has not been modified to comply with the EPA and DOT regs, be prepared to present the requisite documentation when having your car smog-tested and inspected if this is required where you live. The importer of the car should have received EPA documentation exempting certain emissions equipment required Federally and in most states (O2 sensors, etc.). If a vehicle inspection is required where you live, you may find that you may need to make some modifications to the car to comply with DOT regulations (side-impact beams, etc.).
I believe that you're allowed to import one gray market vehicle lifetime that has these EPA exemptions. If these items are not in order, you could start finding out very soon why people tend to get a bit nervous, and shy away from gray market autos. If you've got the requisite docs, then you're in great shape.
