Plunger is sticking on my 380SE fuel distributor. Is it possible to disassemble?
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Joined: Jan 2008
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This month: 2000 K1200LT and 97 540i (The 380SE is still not running)
Plunger is sticking on my 380SE fuel distributor. Is it possible to disassemble?
My air flow sensor plate return position dropped after I pressed down on it to spray some starting fluid into the intake on my 85 380SE.
Thinking it might have just hung up on something, I pressed it again trying to move past the current point of return.......it lowered the point of return further.
I Did a bit of research,....and in the Probst/Bentley manual they suggest that this is generally caused by the central actuator pin/plunger sticking........probably from old gummy fuel (this car has been sitting for several years).
Probst continues by stating that blowing compressed air into the fuel inlet on the distributor can release it,.....however, the example that they are discussing is an older cast iron body distributor,...not the newer style aluminum body distributor.
It appears that the plunger might be captured by a rotating ring with a single notch cut in it. There is also a large diameter nut locked around the perimeter of the ring and there is additionally a locking tab that is bent up against that nut to keep it secure.
I haven't tried the compressed air thing yet, in part because My compressor was stolen out of my storage unit when I moved to Austin,..and also because I'm thinking that the lock ring and nut may be securing it in place.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed?
Can I disassemble the fuel distributor and clean it? The dealer offers no internal seals or even an exploded view on their computer,....so thinking that disassembly is not a good idea.
Im open to any ideas here.
Brian in Austin
Thinking it might have just hung up on something, I pressed it again trying to move past the current point of return.......it lowered the point of return further.
I Did a bit of research,....and in the Probst/Bentley manual they suggest that this is generally caused by the central actuator pin/plunger sticking........probably from old gummy fuel (this car has been sitting for several years).
Probst continues by stating that blowing compressed air into the fuel inlet on the distributor can release it,.....however, the example that they are discussing is an older cast iron body distributor,...not the newer style aluminum body distributor.
It appears that the plunger might be captured by a rotating ring with a single notch cut in it. There is also a large diameter nut locked around the perimeter of the ring and there is additionally a locking tab that is bent up against that nut to keep it secure.
I haven't tried the compressed air thing yet, in part because My compressor was stolen out of my storage unit when I moved to Austin,..and also because I'm thinking that the lock ring and nut may be securing it in place.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed?
Can I disassemble the fuel distributor and clean it? The dealer offers no internal seals or even an exploded view on their computer,....so thinking that disassembly is not a good idea.
Im open to any ideas here.
Brian in Austin
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1
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From: France
W126 280S
Remove the lock ring and nut
Hi Bcollins,
Just do it ! The plunger does not come out of the head unit because the nut holds down the lock ring that has a tab that prevents the plunger from coming out.
And just put a lot of penetrating oil in there and the plunger should work loose. If you are afraid of breaking things, just use a lot of carb cleaner in all the holes, get that plunger moving and refit it !
Good luck !
Denis
Caen, France
Just do it ! The plunger does not come out of the head unit because the nut holds down the lock ring that has a tab that prevents the plunger from coming out.
And just put a lot of penetrating oil in there and the plunger should work loose. If you are afraid of breaking things, just use a lot of carb cleaner in all the holes, get that plunger moving and refit it !
Good luck !
Denis
Caen, France
