Can anyone suggest any tips for buying a 1984 380SE? I've found one for sale in my neighborhood but must admit I know very little about Mercedes.

First, some background about me: I am a competent home mechanic who has repaired/modified Hondas and Mazdas. I realize a Mercedes is an entirely different animal than a Japanese econo-car, but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty.

I've not test driven the car yet - I wanted to learn more about them and what to look for before I get behind the wheel so I can objectively judge the car - but I have given it a close look. I plan to call the owner tomorrow and ask for the car's history, etc...

It has 99,892 miles on the odometer. The body is straight, with a couple of minor door dings. I appears solid, although there is evidence the current owner has been less than consciencious:

1.) The paint has worn to the primer in several spots (deck lid; on the roof above the doors).
2.) There are there cracks in the rear bumper cover.
3.) The interior is clean, although the rear package tray has faded to white (the rest of the interior is tan) and there is a small crack in the dash. Two seams in the rear seat have blown but it looks as if they would be easily repaired with needle and thread.
4.) The car was "keyed" above the driver's door handle, leaving a scratch about 6-8 inches long.

What, if any, weak spots does the 380 have that I should be aware of? What major maintainance would be required at the 100K interval?

Generally speaking, how reliable is the 380?

What kind of fuel economy can I expect? How difficult is it to obtain routine parts (tune-up parts, brake pads, shocks, etc.)?

Generally speaking, what's the ballpark price for a car of this age and this condition (assuming it's fine mechanically)?

I am not looking for a "perfect" car, just a reliable and comfortable car for commuting and the occasional road-trip; I don't mind "project" cars that require tune-ups, cosmetic work and minor repairs (brake jobs, new shocks, etc.) that I can do myself. For me, half the fun of owning a car is tinkering on it - which raises another question: how friendly is the 380 to the "shadetree" mechanic. (i.e., does it require specialized tools, etc. to work on)?

Any help appreciated... I surfed the posts made to this forum in the past year but didn't find much info on buying a used 380 SE.

c

 

One thing that I know of is an issue common to all 3.8 liter v-8s built between 1981 and 1984 (I am fairly sure those are the dates) where the engine originally came with a single row timing chain. Over time, the chain stretches and can even break, just like a worn timing belt, with very expensive and bad consequences for the motor. Mercedes introduced a dual cam sprocket, dual chain update for this motor, and the car you are looking at should have had this upgrade done if the owner was conscientious about keeping it in good repair. Most cars need this repair by around 60k. A good mercedes mechanic will tell you about this issue and insist on upgrading the sprocket and chain.

Other than this, I recall that there is some sort of transmission upgrade issue with these cars (vacuum related? but I could be wrong), but you should speak with a knowledgeable mercedes mechanic about this. Other things that come to mind are climate control issues and radio failure, in addition to premature camshaft wear if the oil is not changed regularly.

My advice would be to definitely have the car checked over by a knowlegeable mercedes mechanic or dealer, as these are great, solid, well built cars, but they are (surprise, surprise) pricey to fix, even though they are now old. Best of luck.

 

Single row chains were used from 81-83, doubles 84-85. However, it is recommended to change a double row chain (read 84-85 cars) at 100K miles, so you are due. This is significantly less expensive to do than convert a single row to a double row.

I would make sure the transmission has been serviced and is in tip-top shape, the front suspension makes NO noise at all going over bumps (try speed bumps), that the air is ICE COLD, or I would walk away.

Just my impression, but it sounds like this car was not maintained properly with that kind of miles (assuming they are accurate). Are there service receipts?

Unless the car is $1000, I would walk away. A cheap Mercedes can often be the most expensive lesson you can buy. For only a few bucks more, you can find a well-maintained example that will provide much better (and reliable) service.

BUY SELL
1987 300SDL 231k
2003 C32AMG 7k

 

I drove a 1985 380 SE for 17 years--until I bought my present car in January.

I absolutely LOVED that car!!!! I could have driven it forever if I hadn't been seduced by the new E-Class! I sold mine for $5,500 with 105,000 miles on it and in better condition than the one you're considering.

The weakness of the car was the transmission. I replaced it twice--at 60,000 miles and again at 100,000.

I maintained the car well, and it was extremely reliable. Gas mileage was about 16 mpg more or less--not great, but not bad either.

The mechanics of that car were much simpler than the current cars with their excessive electronic doodads. I think you should definitely have the car checked out by a trusted mechanic, but if the car has been maintained well, as mine was, I think you'll be really happy with the car! It's an elegant, beautiful, extremely comfortable workhorse! And I miss that huge trunk and fabulous storage space!!!

I never worked on the car myself, so I don't know how easy it is to work on. But my mechanic tried to buy my car from me for years and ended up buying its twin for himself--an excellent recommendation, I think!

I never had a problem getting parts.

Good luck!

 

First thing to find out is if it's a EURO, I seem to recall you could get a 380SE in the US, if it is a US model it's a dog - as in WOOF! Even the US 84 500s are dogs compared to EUROs. However some dealers STILL don;t like EUROs so do your homework on what you want. Earlly transmissions blow up their B2 pistons so see if it was replaced. The V8s eat valve guides at around 150,000 miles (it'll smoke the intersetion on hard stops) and replaced guides seem to last only 50K a pop. Rear windows leak, rear quarters rust behind the passenger wheel opening, they rust near the hood hinges, climate controls all fail and so do cruise amps, and add in fuel pump relays. It would take too long to mention everything along with special tools. BUT when my 1980 500 SEL is running good it's a dream, it's actually a better driver than a 2003 Buick Century rental I drove in Tuscon!