S-Class (W126) 1979-1991: 300 SE, 300 SEL, 380 SE, 380 SEL, 420 SEL, 500 SEL, 560 SEL, 360 SEC, 500 SEC, 580 SEC, 300 SD TURBODIESEL, 300 SDL TURBO, 350 SD TURBO, 350 SDL TURBO

Weak points of the 126 V8 cars

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Old 12-25-2006, 11:53 AM
  #26  
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2006 E320 CDi, 2008 3/4 Ton Suburban, 2007 "rice rickshaw" Accord 5 speed
the w126 was built like a tank, a King Tiger tank

Originally Posted by DslBnz
Most of the items mentioned on this thread all pertain to the age of the vehicle. Not really "weaknesses". All parts in motion, and those exposed to the elements will age and need remedy on any car. Once they are fixed, they are fixed for another 20 or so years if done right.

It is really important to become a DIY'er because most people that work on these cars have limited experience and their priorities are not for the best interests of the customer. Only YOU can care for YOUR car the way YOU want it to be cared for. These cars are not daunting to work on, these cars were designed to last forever, and to be rebuilt and remain in service for as long as you can afford.

In regards to transmissions. I have 3 Mercedes-Benz S-Class vehicles (W126 only). Two have about 290K miles each and one has 150K. They all have their ORIGINAL transmissions, and they never flare or shift overly harsh in any condition. They need to be serviced every 30K miles with fluid and filter RIGHT ON SCHEDULE, or they will not take kindly to it.
Another thing is that when you are shifting gear from park to reverse or drive ALWAYS give the tranny a couple of seconds to engage properly or else there will be a "clonk". These older boxes are like that from new.

In older cars the transmission seals leak and if you are not replacing them make sure you check your ATF weekly or else you will run low. Check the garage floor too. Use only MB made fluid. The synthetics are good but they seem to leak more than the standard MB fare which is petroleum based stuff. If you look after the box it will last and last.
Old 12-26-2006, 02:13 PM
  #27  
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1991 560SEC Teal 1989 420SEL Ice Blue 1984 500SEC White
Weak points of the 126 V8 cars

As far as the transmission, a good rule of thumb is when you park, try this.
1) put car in neutral
2) apply the emergency brake and the foot break, with car in neutral.
3) remove foot from foot break with emergency brake on, let car/transmission do the sloppy roll, and than put it in park.

This prevents the transmission from holding the car stationary as well as lessens the abuse your shifter and linkage take trying to disengage park.
Always wait for the transmission to settle when going from park to reverse and than into drive.

Fluids and timing chains are the life of this motor. Changing both with MB approved fluids does make a difference.

Rust is a problem as well as glass delamination.
The worst rust is caused by a bad rear window seal, where the water works it way down behind the glass causing delamination. This in result leads to the rear shelf rusting out.
The front window seal can leak also, but by design the water lays in the channel of the rear seal and penetrates the layers of glass through time.

Leaks from the steering box.

Rear suspension problems on self leveling 126's.

Try MBCOUPES.COM
A great buyers list on there some place.
BENZITCH
Bruce
Old 01-10-2007, 06:33 PM
  #28  
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'89 Mercedes 560 SEC RUF EURO Engine, '94 BMW 850 CSi #60 of 225
Brake Booster Line Known Failure Point

Often times, the vacuum line that supplies vacuum from the intake manifold to the brake booster on the firewall cracks, becomes old and brittle. Such a situation is dangerous as the line may rupture while driving and render the power assist for the service brakes useless. For preventive maintenance, this line should be regularly inspected and replaced if damaged.
The part number for the unit is: 126-430-28-29 Vacuum Line; it costs $44.55 USD.
Old 01-14-2007, 09:09 PM
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87 560SEL, 95 600SL, 95/98 CL600
Rust, tranny and OEM suspension

Rust under rear window shelf was bad, and had more around door frames, rear trunk lid. This was a San Fran car before I bought it.
Also tranny was chewed.
Replacement runs fine but has a groan when shifting from Park into Drive.
Is this common?
Also: air suspension on mine just went out.
What are good replacement shocks that will work fine and hopefully not bring rear end down much.
Have an 89 635csi that wobbles the same way due to the same issue.
thanks!

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