Side Mirror Fried
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3
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From: The OC
1998 S320
Side Mirror Motor Fried
The passenger side mirror of a 1998 S320 did a "snap, crackle, pop".
There was sparks and smoke coming out. This leads to the fuse blowing.
I would like to disconnect this mirror, so I can put the fuse back in and get the other electronics associated to this working.
The problem is how to remove the front door panel so I can unplug this mirror (I have removed the mirror, but did not see a plug). I took 2 screws out (in pull handle and behind SRS badge), "C" molding, and poped all the side attachments. But there seems to another attachment somewhere around the seat controller.
Does the seat controller panel with the wood pop out seperately?
Or does the door latch handle have something to do with it?
Any clues to remove the door panel will help.
Also, can the mirror motor be replaced, and how?
There was sparks and smoke coming out. This leads to the fuse blowing.
I would like to disconnect this mirror, so I can put the fuse back in and get the other electronics associated to this working.
The problem is how to remove the front door panel so I can unplug this mirror (I have removed the mirror, but did not see a plug). I took 2 screws out (in pull handle and behind SRS badge), "C" molding, and poped all the side attachments. But there seems to another attachment somewhere around the seat controller.
Does the seat controller panel with the wood pop out seperately?
Or does the door latch handle have something to do with it?
Any clues to remove the door panel will help.
Also, can the mirror motor be replaced, and how?
Last edited by vlee99; Feb 5, 2006 at 02:18 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 3
VW Phaeton W12
I'm going through the same problem. I'm replacing the mirror right now and all of the wires are fried.
What you do is bend the whole unit forward and look inside the gap for the cover retaining clip deep inside near the cover. Use a screw driver to pop the retaining clip loose and this will allow you to remove the cover. There are three screws holding the mirror to the door. Remove these screws and the connectors are located behind the mounting plate. Disconnect them and the previous owner covered them with tape on my car. It's very easy to do.
Good luck
What you do is bend the whole unit forward and look inside the gap for the cover retaining clip deep inside near the cover. Use a screw driver to pop the retaining clip loose and this will allow you to remove the cover. There are three screws holding the mirror to the door. Remove these screws and the connectors are located behind the mounting plate. Disconnect them and the previous owner covered them with tape on my car. It's very easy to do.
Good luck
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 105
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1997 S600 Sedan
I recommend a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com if you you tackle a lot of your W140 projects on your own. For the removing the door panel, there are two hidden plastic prongs that are mounted on hinges along the vertical straight edge of the wood panel. You must insert a stiff rod of some sort (feeler gauge, or I have used a sharpened popsicle stick.) at the lower edge between the wood panel and the leather panel. Slide the "tool" (whatever it is) up along the wood panel and rotate the two prongs out of the way. It can take a good effort to rotate the plastic tabs. Just keep pushing up. When the two prongs are rotated out of the way, the rear portion of the panel will pop out, and you can remove the seat switch panel. Behind the panel is hidden another screw that holds the door cover in place.
When replacing the panel, rotate the prongs back into the outward position, and then place the rear portion of the wood panel in place. Then, just push the forward portion of the panel in place until it snaps in.
Brett
When replacing the panel, rotate the prongs back into the outward position, and then place the rear portion of the wood panel in place. Then, just push the forward portion of the panel in place until it snaps in.
Brett
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3
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From: The OC
1998 S320
Originally Posted by brett san diego
For the removing the door panel, there are two hidden plastic prongs that are mounted on hinges along the vertical straight edge of the wood panel. ......... at the lower edge between the wood panel and the leather panel. Slide the "tool" (whatever it is) up along the wood panel and rotate the two prongs out of the way.
Brett
Brett
Let me make sure I got this right.
1. I need to remove the wood panel that has the seat controller first.
2. There are 2 plastic prongs that hold it.
Is one toward the front, and one at the back of wood panel?
3. Prongs are on vertical edge only. Are the prongs in the middle or corners?
4. Rotate prongs up.
Sounds like opening a latched door with a credit card?
Thanks
Last edited by vlee99; Feb 8, 2006 at 01:43 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 3
VW Phaeton W12
Are you sure you need to remove the door panel to get to your mirror plugs? I question this because the same mirror fits your year and mine. If that's the case, the wiring plugs are located outside the car door where it mounts. You don't even need to open the door to get to them to unplug the mirror. You do need to follow the steps I outlined above. The two screws you undid were those the ones under the cover inside the door? If that's the case, your plugs are between that and the mirror.
Here is a link to see your mirror off the car.
http://mercedes.thebenzbin.com/?year...Field22222.y=7
Sorry if I'm wrong on this. I just don't want to see you go through any extra work.
Here is a link to see your mirror off the car.
http://mercedes.thebenzbin.com/?year...Field22222.y=7
Sorry if I'm wrong on this. I just don't want to see you go through any extra work.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3
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From: The OC
1998 S320
Originally Posted by NCpitman
What you do is bend the whole unit forward and look inside the gap for the cover retaining clip deep inside near the cover. Use a screw driver to pop the retaining clip loose and this will allow you to remove the cover. There are three screws holding the mirror to the door. Remove these screws and the connectors are located behind the mounting plate. Disconnect them and the previous owner covered them with tape on my car. It's very easy to do.
Good luck
Good luck
I ended up forcing the mirror REARWARD, two screws were "cake", but the 3rd on the bottom I could not remove. I didn't have a strait access for the screw driver, and started to strip the head. I ended up slipping a screw driver between the mounting plate, and luckly unhooked the correct plug.
I put the fuse back in, and the mirror housing will fold, and the mirror doesn't adjust as planned, but the other mirror which was not unplugged, doesn't adjust either. Why?
Thanks NC!
I'm still curious on how to remove the door panel.
Last edited by vlee99; Feb 11, 2006 at 12:53 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 3
VW Phaeton W12
The clip was just the one for the housing cover so you can gain access to the three screws. I had problems with the third screw as well but I just keep pulling the mirror off as I loosened the last screw. That allowed me to keep enough bite on it. I'll just plan on doing the same as I reinstall the new one.
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 3
VW Phaeton W12
I just repaired mine on the cheap. $10 vs. $400
I believe the problem that caused my mirror to fry was the metal plate protecting the wires from everything else. I believe the wires wore through their insulation and shorted out on the plate. Mine were very bad. They all looked frazzled.
How to repair:
The connector going to the motor has a small grey retaining clip that holds each of the pins securely in place. Carefully remove it by sliding it off to one side (small tabs hold it in place). Next you can slide out the bad wire by depressing the tab in the connector on the end. Slide it out all the way so you can gain access to the entire wire. Cover with shrink tubing and heat until it is snug against the wire. Then replace it back into the connector.
I had to do all 7 wires plus the two going to the heated mirror. If you have to do more then one, then do each one at a time so that you get them back into the connector in the right place. I could use the shrink tubing on everything except the heated mirror wires. I had to use electrical tape but it should work fine for them
I believe the problem that caused my mirror to fry was the metal plate protecting the wires from everything else. I believe the wires wore through their insulation and shorted out on the plate. Mine were very bad. They all looked frazzled.
How to repair:
The connector going to the motor has a small grey retaining clip that holds each of the pins securely in place. Carefully remove it by sliding it off to one side (small tabs hold it in place). Next you can slide out the bad wire by depressing the tab in the connector on the end. Slide it out all the way so you can gain access to the entire wire. Cover with shrink tubing and heat until it is snug against the wire. Then replace it back into the connector.
I had to do all 7 wires plus the two going to the heated mirror. If you have to do more then one, then do each one at a time so that you get them back into the connector in the right place. I could use the shrink tubing on everything except the heated mirror wires. I had to use electrical tape but it should work fine for them
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