philip28

i just got a 95 s500 and the amp in the trunk was gone . would that prevent sound coming out of the speakers..?

flytyer

Oh yes, you need the amp to drive your stereo. If it is an original. I had my amp redone by a place in Florida. Very good service. I also called Becker Radio to have my radio redone. There are several places but these guys gave the best warranty. Bose makes the amp and you can buy refurbs. The radio unit is made (usually) by Becker.
Call 800-428-1909 for Factory Car Stereo Repair Inc. And Becker 201-961-1300. Hope this helps you!!

BENZITCH

What is the model number of the radio?

helma

This is a new one for you. Are you familiar with a Koran car manufacturer called "SAMYONG"? I am from the Philippines. In 1995, Mercedez Benz here in the Philippines released a Korean version of a utility van. The Model is MB 100D. It was abig hit! Until owners found out it was a lemon! Would you have information on this unit? And how do we request help in getting the proper way of securing warranties for damaghes which often occur during daily use? Is Daimler Benz worldwide aware of this move? Apparently, it was issued Only here in the Philippines. Please provide more info.

giorgosss

Hi i was curios on the 1995 s320 (w140), i disconected the battery and after i reconected it my radio was locked. On the digital display it showed a little number 1 and then it changed to a number 3.
After reading the manual it mentioned to enter the re-set code in.
Because the car is second hand i only have the code but no instruction card that tells you how to go about entering the code in order to reset the radio..

Does anyone know what the steps are to enter the code to reset the radio?

Much appreciated!

philip28

the first thing you need to do is , get the radio code. then put it in and then either hit the seek.button.or tune button..doesn't matter with one it is . just after you enter the code . hit one of the buttons. and your radio will be unlocked.

giorgosss

Thanks for the advise, i will try this and let u know how i go in the next day or so... thanks again!

qha000

I'm putting my amp on ebay in a couple days, check it out.

giorgosss

Hey

I entered in the code for the sterio and everything seems to be working ok, the reason it wasnt accepting the code was because a casset was also in the sterio unit and the code wont work untill the casset has been removed.
Thanks for ur help

One other quick thought, the w140 has self close doors that are closed with a vacume. Every so often the suction stops working on one of the 4 doors or the boot ( trunk) lid. When this happends i take the fuse out located in the Boot compartment and once i put them back everything seems to work again for a while... Does anyone know why this is happening, and why when i put the fuse in and out it seems to work again?... None of the fuses appear to be burnt out either so im not to sure why this is happening.... Is there something simple i can do that might fix this problem?

philip28

[QUOTE=philip28;3452585]i just got a 95 s500 and the amp in the trunk was gone . would that prevent sound coming out of the speakers..?[/QU

hey iam gettin a aftermaket cd player and i need to know whats the power wire , remote wire. etc. comin from the factory wireharness. and do they make a plug and play adapter that conect to the factory wireharness so i dont have to cut the factory?

wbrian63

This issue is due to the "time to result" testing being done by the pump in the trunk that pulls the doors shut (also pulls the trunk lid closed).

When you close a door, the pump is called to actuate the closer lever in the door to latch it fully. The pump "knows" the door is latched when a certain pressure is reached in the line going to the door closer. Each door is monitored individually. Only a certain amount of time is allowed for that pressure to be reached before the door is noted as being "sub-par" for closing purposes. I think there are a certain number of times the door can fall out of spec before the pump takes it "offline". When you pull the fuse, the pump forgets about the offline status of the door and it starts working again for a while.

This is typical of older 140-chassis cars. As the closer systems age, they don't reach cutoff pressure as quickly, and the pump starts taking them offline. Nothing permanently wrong, just a little old and tired. (An old man takes longer getting out of a car, but he still gets out...).

Visit www.v12uberalles.com for a detailed article on how to cure this problem. I made the changes noted in the article about 4 years ago and have yet to have a recurrance of the door offline problem.

Also - you'll get better responses to questions like this if you start a new thread. This problem isn't related to the missing amp, or resetting a locked radio. Many people know the answer to this question, but might skip the thread entirely because they aren't interested in radio problems or have nothing to contribute. -- just a suggestion --

Gqcowboy

Hi there, I'm hoping someone can help with this one...

I enter the radio code, then, a alarm starts, a loud one too. The radio is on, but the alarm is blowing...

Before, I tried to turn the radio, off and on a few times, and it would start
playing the radio...but now, it's not doing it..

Has anyone had this problem...?

Thanks
Dawson

BenzBoy92

I got A great Original Becker Radio that came from my brothers E420 if anyone is interested, it looks and works in great condition, selling it for $140 free shipp no loose buttons or anything, shoot me an email. also have w140 comfort control modules 5 of them for $50 free shipping, a central Locking pump with 6" of wires and connector plus vacuum fittings and 4" on line attached, and a Vacuum door assist pump with fittings and line plus wires and connector for sale

giorgosss

I have a 1995 w140 S320.

I noticed that when i start the car there is a fuel leak. The leak comes from the back right hand side of the veichle, in front of the rear right hand tyre about an arms length of the way in. I notice that once the car warms up the leak stops and it doesnt happen again untill the next day the car is started again. After the car had warmed up the leak stops and it doesnt leak again. Sometimes ive noticed that there is no leak when the car is started for the first time in that day.

I have taken it to a local mechanic and he said there was a loose clip and tightened it , this didnt do anything , soon after a few starts the car leaked again and then sometimes a it never leaked.

It is fuel as it smells like it.

Does anyone know what the issue may be and if they have experienced anything similar?? and if so is this an expensive or major issue.

Thanks